Carb Help

Growler

Gold forum user
Messages
199
I am so close to getting the car back together after the paint shop. Finished reinstalling the soft top today (and boot cover) and bleed the brakes after reinstalling the brake lines and booster.

We just had to hear the sound of the engine as it as been nearly 2 months and the only thing left to do before we can drive it, is install the new windshield and frame (and items that attach to them - fruflex, rubber, catches, rear view mirror). So we started it right up and gas came pouring from the carb. I have attached a picture and the gas is coming from where both my thumb and pinky are pointing.
carb.jpg
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I was able to slide the pipe back and fourth a bit and it seems to have stopped , but I dont trust that it wont wriggle loose again as I am driving. Is there a seal that can be replaced on both sides of the pipe? Is it a diy job or do I need to get it to a carb guy? If seals are avail, where do you get them or how do I describe it?
Thanks, Josh
 

cobrakidz

Gold forum user
Messages
2,289
I think there should be 2 little donut rubber gaskets in the ends......Most hot rod type shops should carry these and it is pretty simple to install. Loosen one of the bowls, pull it back, pull the tube off and install the rubber donuts, then reinstall the bowl.
 

cadreamn67

Platinum Forum Member
Messages
608
It is very possible that when you remove the bowl, the gasket there will tear and not be reusable. Presuming the carb has not been apart in a few years. If you can buy the fuel tube o rings separately, you might as well get a bowl gasket at the same time and save yourself an extra trip later. Depending on where you go, you may need to buy a renew kit to get the parts you need. Be sure you have the carb List number (stamped on the air horn) when you go to the store.

Gene
 

Duke Mk1a

Gold forum user
Messages
1,673
That model of Holley is a POS. Get yourself a Holley double pumper and not have to worry about that cross tube.

Nice Rolex.
 

67 Tiger

Gold forum user
Messages
298
Keep the carb , change to dual feed float bowles. Much cheaper than changing the whole carb.
 

TigerBlue

Gold forum user
Messages
827
Easy and Economic

I would fix what I have on the car.

Changing to a dual feed Holly or and E-Brock means dealing with the fuel plumbing. More time and lots more cost.

Also you (original post) are not saying that performance is an issue. Even so the choice of a new carb should be in harmony with the other performance elements of intake and exhaust: camshaft, manifold, heads, headers and? carburetor. To name a few.

Rick
 

Growler

Gold forum user
Messages
199
Performance does not seem to be an issue (although we have only driven the car off and on for about a month before the respray). So I think for starters I'll get the fuel tube gaskets and a bowl gasket (just in case)....sounds like it is not too difficult a job and a lot less cost.

Do I have the part number correct...there are 3 sets of numbers...

1st set COAE-9510-N - I have no idea what this means (anybody care to clue me in?)

2nd set LIST-1848-1 - I believe this to be the model number for which I will look for the parts.

3rd set: 5A1 - from my quick internet search it seems that this is the date code 5=1965 A=November 1= 1st week in the month....so would I be corect in thinking this was the original (probably LAT since I have the edelbrock manifold too) carb?

Thanks for all the advice/feedback.
Josh
 

Cal44

Gold forum user
Messages
428
Josh,

First set of numbers is Ford reference numbers
Second is Holley reference numbers
5A1= 1965, Jan, first week

If someone knows me too be in error please correct.

While searching cast numbers. Ford never used the letter I. So, when doing the finger counting always skip that letter.

Mike
 

Growler

Gold forum user
Messages
199
Carb parts

I can't find replacement parts for the 1848 but came across an obscure reference stating that the 1848 parts are the same as 4160..... Can anyone verify or refute this? Thanks.
 

cadreamn67

Platinum Forum Member
Messages
608
The 4160 number is a model/style of carb that Holley makes/made. The 1848-1 is one version of that "family" of carbs. Have a look at www.summitracing.com and search for Holley carb kits. Check out the applications tab for kits 37-1542 and 37-119. You will see these kits are for the 4160 style carb and that the 1848-1 is listed as an application for which the kit applies. It is possible there are some parts or kits for certain variations of the 4160 style that would not fit your carb, depending on what the part may be. Hence the application aspect may be important. As I recall some kits have variations of some parts so that the kit covers more list numbers.

I would say the best thing to do if in doubt is take the parts you want to replace to the store and show them what you need.

Hope that helps.

Gene

PS: Depending on how the O-rings or seals are held in place, you may need to remove both bowls and thus would need two gaskets...
 

Growler

Gold forum user
Messages
199
Thanks for all your help. I thought I had found the correct "O" rings on line but since there was some confusion (some carbs had more of a cylinder seal rather than an O ring), I decided to take off the secondary bowl, remove the pipe and take it to my specialist carb guy for the right parts. Once removed, I found that it had been rebuilt as there was a nice blue gasket on the bowl (which I was able to save). I found that there were 2 o rings on each side and 1 had worked its way off (or never put on correctly) and found in the hole. They didn't look damaged, so I re-installed and it all seems tight - not able to wriggle the pipe as before. Tested it out and no leaks...not bad for 10 minuts work ;)

Thanks again for all your input.
 
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