how to torque front hubs

[pappentl]

I'm reinstalling the front hubs. Per the workshop manual I've torqued them to about 18 ft lb, then backed them off a flat and half, +/- to find the nearest location where the split pin can be installed. This yields a nut which seems only finger tight, is this correct? TIA.

Tom
B9473100

 

[Warren]

Maybe

A little tighter..
What's important is no binding and no excessive slop. Do the adjustment with the wheels up, and while spinning them tighten.
Of course your results may vary I've found myself in parking lot at an autocross tightening wheel bearings.

 

[0neoffive]

Double Check Em'

Fresh bearings & races may need a bit of 'run in'. Sometimes the races are not quite seated despite how active you are with the brass drift tool. Jack the wheels off the ground once in a while and give them a wiggle. As Warren said, just snug them up but not too tight that they drag.

 

[Maliburevue]

Front Wheel Bearings

When checking the play in the front wheel bearings, always wiggle the tire whilst grabbing the top and bottom first and then tighten as needed. If you wiggle the tire whilst grabbing the sides first, any play you find will include the play in the tie rod ends as well (if there be any), and you may end up over tightening the wheel bearings trying to get out tie rod end play.

Conversely, if you want to check just your tie rod end play, over tighten the wheels bearings (not enough to damage them) to take out any wheel bearing play, and then wiggle the tire side to side. This isolates the tie rod end play. Just make sure you reset your wheel bearing play after you've checked your tie rods.

Ideally, you should check your tie rods at the same time you check your wheel bearings anyway, since you've got the front end up in the air.

My 2 cents,

Spike

 

[Too Tech]

All bearings (tapered, needle or caged ball) need a small amount of side preload to ensure the balls or needles ride against their race in a consistent pattern with no bouncing around. Too much preload and they run hot and evaporate the oil in the grease, then the balls run hot and wear out. To little preload and the balls / needles bounce around and wear out. Bearing manufacturers publish the preload requirements based on speeds and loads.
New bearings are likely to loosen after break in. Used re-greased bearing don't break in as much.

Hear is a typical spec for a tapered front wheel bearing:
Tighten hub nut to 20-25 ft-lbs/27-33 Nm then back off 1/3 turn. Tighten to 2-10 in-lbs/1 Nm while turning wheel. Install the cage nut and cotter pin

I would add to this, if you just re-greased the bearing, spin it several revolutions at high torque to distribute the grease and then back off and re tighten as described.