Lets talk oil pan gaskets and sealing

[Duke Mk1a]

I am having a hell of a time getting the oil pan to seal. Have tried two different of the one piece silicon gaskets ($$) and they are not working. The problem I think I have is that I have a 1991 302 block with a 1965 front timing cover and a custom oil pan that has the 1960s mating surface design with the two groves that run parallel down the side.

It seems that the circumference of the timing cover may be different on the older one vs the newer TC. With both of the one piece gaskets the section for the front and rear seemed too long. This most recent install, I had to cut that section out and use the standard rubber sections. This time I have a bad leak along the length of the passenger side.

I have ordered the two kits and will combine them for the best fit -
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-1809/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-40300/
One is for a early V8, the other for a 1990 or later V8.


What are your thoughts on this issue? Do you use Permatex, how do you prep the surfaces, what is the tightening sequence, what torque?

 

[Duke Mk1a]

Bob Mannel sent me this advice -

Duke,

I am unfamiliar with the 1991 302. All I can tell you is what I do on oil pans. The front and rear rubber seals go in without sealer. I have used sealer before, but I don't think it is necessary and Ford does not call for it. I make real sure the seals are fully in the channel and that the ends are seated so that just the slot shows. For the side gaskets, I use Permatex #2 sealer on the block and oil pan with gasket between them. I make sure the surfaces are free of oil. I use Mineral Spirits to clean off the oil and use low-pressure air to dry the surface. I want the sealer to "stick" to the metal. I also dab the corners where the gaskets go into slots on the front and rear rubber seals. For bolt holes that are not deadended (four front ones in timing chain cover and rear two) I use sealer on the bolt threads. All bolts are snugged, then tightened from the center to front and back, alternating sides. This is done several times as the sealer does squeeze out. I watch the cork gasket destortion as it will bow out from the block. A little bow is okay. An hour later I will check the bolts again in case more sealer has squeezed out and loosened the bolt.

That generally does the job in preventing leaks for me.

Regards, Bob Mannel

 

[Bryan]

wellington

that is right no sealer on the front and rear rubbers-I'll put just a small amount on the corners. also look to see if the bottom of the timing case cover is flush with the rest of the block surface. some times you can get 1/8 difference. just loosen your timing case bolts and readjust. I usually only put sealer on one side of gasket.usually oil pan side.keeps it from slipping out while tighting- also don't over tighten.you'll bend the oil pan out of shape. Bryan

 

[Duke Mk1a]

I followed Bob's advice to the letter and so far, not a leak. Not sure what to do with the drip pan now? KNOCK ON WOOD!