PS Vintage Wheels

[WigsTig]

Just following up on my post of last month regarding the 15" S/C wheels that Rusty Conrad of PS Vintage Wheels (no affiliation) made for me. Even though I am trying to get the car reassembled and back on the road by June, I decided to stop what I was doing and perform a test fit of the wheels that just landed at my doorstep; 6" front and 7" rears. A friend suggested that traction and overall performance would be greatly improved once tires were fitted to the wheels... I think he might be right. I will determine just how much rubber I can fit on each corner once I have the drive train re-installed and the car is sitting at its fighting weight. If the three spoke spinner isn't your cup of tea, it can be changed to a more subtle "dome" cap.
I have the 11.75" Wilwood Disc brakes going up front but they were not installed when the pictures were taken. I did however, test fit them with the wheels later the same day and they fit just fine.
This is my first attempt at attaching pictures so if they don't come through please hang on and I'll try again.
Cheers! Mike

 

[defsailor]

I HAVE VINTAGE PANASPORT 15" AND RUN 205/50/15 FRONT 225/50/15 REAR, I WANT TO FILL THE WHEEL WELLS AND GET A BETTER RIDE, I'm GOING TO TRY 60 SERIES, WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS?

 

[cobrakidz]

I like the 50 series I have, just lower the car around them to fill the wheel wells.

 

[AshUK]

I love those SC wheels Mike. Do they fit a car with stock fenders ok or do the front wheels protrude outside the bodywork at all?

 

[cadreamn67]

FWIW re: lowering car.

If you do decide to lower the car, I caution against cutting the front coil springs to get the front end down as any part of that. I have been told that people were doing that back in the 1970's and started tearing the shock towers off the crossmember. Seems they were getting into spring coil bind before full travel limit was reached.

It seems like dropped spindles are almost impossible to find these days. I lowered my front end by trimming down the rubber isolation caps on the top of the coil springs. Some people take them out all together. I have read that makes things very squeaky up front. Anyway, I could not get comfortable with the idea of metal on metal up there so left about 1/8 if material in the thinnest part. Still was able to lower the front about 1/2 inch or so doing that.

Since this mod reduces spring travel distance, it may also negatively affect the ride quality you are seeking. It also has an effect on camber. Since I am one of those interested in a little negative camber on the front anyway to help with cornering, I did not consider it a negative to my modification.

Gene

 

[WigsTig]

Hello defsailor;
I agree with your direction and was thinking 55's or 60's, depending on the width of the tires.

Hello AshUK;
Thx a bunch. I too have stock fenders and the wheels protrude a bit on the fronts but not the rears. I can do some minor mods to bring the fronts in a bit but I don't plan on doing anything until I get the car re-assembled and back on the ground.

Hello cobrakidz;
Good point. I was thinking 55's or 60's but I really won't know until I get the car back on the ground and lowered. Good to know that 50's with a lowered car will work.

Hello Gene;
Thx a bunch for the counsel re: coil cutting. I heard the same thing which is why I had some springs made (back in the 70's, just before the car went into storage) which lowered the front a bit and kept a reasonably soft ride. I agree with you re: the metal on metal but like the idea of shaving the isolation cap a bit. Drop spindles would be first prize and I am on the lookout just like dozens of others.

Cheers! Mike

 

[Chris Major]

I'm running the same setup: PSE S/C's - 15x6 (3.75" Backspace) front and 15x7 (4" backspace) rear. I also have the 11" Willwoods, along with Dales Springs. I followed PSE recommendation on what they have done on Tigers previously (above) in terms of backspace. We trimmed front valance and aprox 5/8" off rear inner lip. Really liked the look of 195-50-15 front and 225-50-15 rear, but had to run 195-50-15 all the way around (Direzzis). I'm sure my springs had an impact on this.

I will say their staggered backspace does improve the stance and appears correct. 195's give comfortable clearance with inner lip on rear and 15 x7 x 4" BS clears the Wilwood calipers (barely on rear). It's rather close to parking brake hanger.

From a handling standpoint, running the bigger rubber on the rear may contribute to understeer. I'm sure the group will have informed opinions on this.

Regatds,

Chris Major

 

[Maliburevue]

Rubber Coil Spacer/Isolator

On top of the front coils is a rubber spacer/isolator. It is located ~half way between the fulcrum and the balljoint. Using a bandsaw I cut mine down ~1/2", which lowered the front end ~1" at the wheel opening. No change in spring rate. Some people remove it completely, but I want at least something to minimize road noise and vibration.

Gary

 

[0neoffive]

Another Obsevation

On top of the front coils is a rubber spacer/isolator. It is located ~half way between the fulcrum and the balljoint. Using a bandsaw I cut mine down ~1/2", which lowered the front end ~1" at the wheel opening. No change in spring rate. Some people remove it completely, but I want at least something to minimize road noise and vibration.

Gary

Since we do a lot of front X-members here, I would caution guyz about using harder springs without the rubber tower insert. Without the nice dampening effect, the tower spring seat takes severe pounding & damage . . . . repaired enough of them to see the results.