To grease or not to grease

[pfreen]

Should I grease between the leaves of the rear springs as the manual says? I am fitting new Sunbeam Specialties teflon buttons.
The springs I took apart are not worn, but had no grease, but flattened rubbery buttons.

 

[0neoffive]

Grease the livun' heck out of them. Amen

 

[Warren]

There is a really nice YouTube channel by Alpine guy who's really got them dressed for foul weather, of course he lives in the UK so yeah depending upon your climate and your driving but kind of want to keep em from rusting right. Maybe that Cosomoline or Waxoly
coating will be a little more showy

 

[Too Tech]

With all due respect...
Grease will make the leaf springs performance the best possible while its fresh.
But grease attracts dirt and over time may cause visual issues, wear as the dirt collects, and even degrade leaf sliding over time.
My bet is dry springs with Teflon buttons will perform essentially identical to grease and stay that way for many years.

 

[Austin Healer]

You are correct about attracting dirt. Why the British used to put leather gaiters over the springs. holds the grease, keeps the dirt out.

 

[65beam]

Use Sil Glyde on the springs. It's a silicone based lubricant, packed in small 8 oz tubes and is available at every NAPA store and packed under other labels at most parts stores.

 

[pfreen]

I used anti seize to grease between the leaves. There are a number of references online suggesting it.
I have not run them yet, but the are not too greasy, so I don't think it will attract dirt. I also used the SS teflon buttons between the leaves.

 

[Rodbndr]

How many Teflon buttons are needed?

 

[pfreen]

I think it is 6 per spring. Rick has them for $3.95 each.

 

[65beam]

I used anti seize to grease between the leaves. There are a number of references online suggesting it.
I have not run them yet, but the are not too greasy, so I don't think it will attract dirt. I also used the SS teflon buttons between the leaves.

The use of anti seize is to prevent corrosion ( rust) and seizure of bolts and nuts. It should be used to allow fasteners to be loosened, not overall protection of things because it will pick up and hold contaminants. It's not even recommended for use on slide pins of brake calipers. Sil Glyde resists water contamination and can be used in marine applications. That means it helps resist rust corrosion, and metal to metal noise and lubricates at the same time.

 

[pfreen]

I will stick with antiseize. Fyi, I researched the hell out of this since I assembled my springs a long time ago.
I am a retired automotive/ mechanical engineer and I don't do anything without doing my due diligence, which is why I started this thread.

Btw, I have used sil glyde for any many things. Good stuff.

The problem with grease is it attracts dirt. Antiseize is more like a graphite coating.

 

[Warren]

Like anti seize. I don't suppose that you're car Paul will see too many sandy or gritty roads. There's a neat video on the Sunbeam Alpine channel a SAOCA members. But he's a grease and wrap type.

 

[65beam]

I will stick with antiseize. Fyi, I researched the hell out of this since I assembled my springs a long time ago.
I am a retired automotive/ mechanical engineer and I don't do anything without doing my due diligence, which is why I started this thread.

Btw, I have used sil glyde for any many things. Good stuff.

The problem with grease is it attracts dirt. Antiseize is more like a graphite coating.

You probably do know a lot about the automotive business. so you know that there are a couple formulas for anti seize. There's a copper formula and an aluminum formula. Both have graphite and different temp ranges. A very heavy coating of anti seize can also affect torque of fasteners. I use anti seize myself but mainly on bolts. I just base my comments on being a CLE ( certified lubrication engineer) for a lot of years. I'm well into my fourth decade selling lube products to commercial, industrial and construction accounts. I've also spent a lot of time working with various mines both above and below ground so I've seen equipment fail due to some of the toughest conditions known to equipment. I've also seen many pieces of equipment with fasteners that have seized and break when trying to be removed. Nothing was used to protect them. Contamination due to water is a big problem and Sil Glyde does a better job of resisting water and stopping rust corrosion where anti seize isn't quite as good. Sil Glyde can be used on marine applications. In dry areas such as the west coast where rain isn't plentiful anti seize would work fine. Owner preference .

 

[michael-king]

The leather gaitors as often used in the UK keep the springs dry and clean. There would be UK companies that sell for sunbeams im sure...probably quite pricey.

You can also use the waterproof wax tape on them.. Not as pretty but will keep everything clean and dry...keep the grease in and contamination out.
The Teflon buttons should be used regardless .

That said... If doing all this to make your leaves slide smoothly... Don't then fit and over tighten a pair of traction master bars to the rear or ypu won't get the full movement of the springs. The bolt ons are best ( of the TM style) and leave the fromt clamp loose enough to allow some slide...fit some form of felt or Teflon buffer to the leading plates to stop them rattling ;-)

 

[Austin Healer]

That's the whole point of the weld on bars!! To prevent full movement of the spring, but just from the front eye to the axle. So you don't get excessive tramp or "wind up" of the spring. The last set of LAT type bolt on bars that i fit wouldn't allow for the rubber buffer on the front of the spring to be fit as well. I had to make a 1/2" thick spacer at the front to clear it.

 

[michael-king]

That's the whole point of the weld on bars!! To prevent full movement of the spring, but just from the front eye to the axle. So you don't get excessive tramp or "wind up" of the spring. The last set of LAT type bolt on bars that i fit wouldn't allow for the rubber buffer on the front of the spring to be fit as well. I had to make a 1/2" thick spacer at the front to clear it.

Yes they are to stop spring wind up and the resulting axle rotation, but if the front clamps to tight the springs will lock up before they would create tramp..

 

[Warren]

Wow I've had two cars that the P.O. tore off the underlying metal with weld on traction bars. Weld was good underlying metal too thin ...