260 vs 289

No '289' cast in the valley, yet... 'tis a 289

C40E-6015F

6 = 60's
4 = 1964
0 = non Ford model, or, cont. of 221 Fairlane 289
E = Engine Dept, which is better than having a C for chassis group. ;-P

6010 = block
6015 = basic casting
F = Rev / change level 6

5H23 = Assembly code
Aug 23, 1965
(EDIT: Getting mixed info on this 4 digit code. Maybe assembly, maybe QA dept, maybe random)

Interesting that some C40E were still 260...depends on change rev. Weird.

(Amateur hour, for folks like me)
Where was code? Removed 2 starter bolts, 9/16th, on pass side toward rear of block. Move around starter to find casting on block. You might be able to find it with a mirror on a stick, but kind of tough without a lot of room to work under car. On a lift, ez.

So... time to contemplate refresh... rather than crate... I guess... Still have 260 block around, not that I'll be using it anytime soon.

Thanks Bill@RGD...

Derek

DD (CA)
 
Last edited:
Check the Deck

The build date is a stamped number just behind the water pump on the drivers side of engine block. See attached pic.

Ron Fraser has a Tiger engine study that he is doing and suggested to me that, they still built the 260 as a special order for Rootes in the period of time you are thinking. You should bend his ear or at least cruise his posting here: http://teae.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=2517

I think the best guess is your block was cast then but assembly came later as the build date you mention or what is cast in your pic.

Most of the community do not seem to care if you have a numbers matching engine as it is more like having a numbers matching valve cover.
The numbers on the block seem to be more of a period correct asset rather than anything else. When the dust settles it may end up being worth more to a Mustang guy then a Tiger guy.

You will feel the need for a bigger motor a posi, a wide ratio conversion and the torque arm. I have been lucky enough to test drive other cars, and all I can say is " Captain we need more power!" Scotty from Star Trek, especially when driving the leaking Lena, "my car"
 
Have orig block too

Will find and pull numbers off it. Going the 302 (306) crate + lat stuff route would sure be easier. Cleaner. Faster. Maybe even allow some $ for 5 speed. I'm kind of hung up on the 'period correct' thing and the sentimentality behind doing the same that dad had done. Maybe I should try to get over that... But for now I'm thinking to refresh the 289 + lat IM and VC + ? Heads + rollers, but mild...

And, I've got a feeling the mustang guys might be less interested, as the code is non ford matched, right? Dunno yet about cobra?

Thanks warren
 
C4OE 6015F BLOCK

I SOLD A 5 BOLT HIPO 289 SHORTBLOCK TO A TIGER FRIEND LAST FALL FOR $800, WHICH IS LOW, IF YOU CHECK EBAY OR THE HIPO 289 WEBSITE!
CHECK THE HEADS. HIPO. HEADS GO FOR 1500 BIG ONES.
ROGER
 
Soured Grapes

chirodoc said:
I SOLD A 5 BOLT HIPO 289 SHORTBLOCK TO A TIGER FRIEND LAST FALL FOR $800, WHICH IS LOW, IF YOU CHECK EBAY OR THE HIPO 289 WEBSITE!
CHECK THE HEADS. HIPO. HEADS GO FOR 1500 BIG ONES.
ROGER
Click to expand...

A wannabee bought a 5-bolt HiPo short block from us some years ago and his motor guru rebuilt it for a clone. He kept calling us complaining about the vibration. Turns out the motor guru "lost" the little hatchet weight and had also substituted a different damper & larger flywheel. Another ego-based knowledge example . . . . . . history has proved we should have kept that block. Drat!:(
 
Mismatched block ID & NorCal Motor "Gurus"

@warren. Familiar with that mustangtek domain. Their block ID info differs from the Tom Monroe book (...Rebuild your SBF...). I would hope www offered updated, more accurate info, but... we know it's not always true. Usually folks like me assuming what someone else has written on another site is valid. Other similar www sites have still more mixed info. Seems to be the nature of the beast for these 'odd ball' customer motors. So, according to TAAE, maybe still a 260, TM, a normal 289, mustangtek, hipo 289. I'm not at point of totally pulling motor apart yet... Wish I knew block was OK..

@chiro. looking at hipomustang Klassifieds, this what you are referring to? Seems good info. Thanks. And $1200-1500 for stock hipo heads or $1800 for Al modern heads. In my situ... might feel pull to old skool... is a lot though.

"Guru" v. local machinist

Reviewing old magazines for bigger rebuilders on the rod scene, and comparing their status now, gives a sense of confidence in their abilities. I figure, if they're still around, that's good. If they're bigger, that's better. and if they're even more well spread online...great. It may all be false hope.

Been searching here, at mustang and at cobra sites. Harder than I thought to find info on 289s anymore. All 302 and up.

My total resto support shop has their own experience with local paint, upholstery, motor, etc...of course. I'd feel bad maybe going 'against' this local push. But yet, some of these shops are now kaput now that I've researched a bit. Biz failures happen, I know it too well. And a great site /= automatically a great build.

Did extensive work on my late model daily driver and tried the 'regional guru' approach to mixed success. Nationally known and low rates. But 6 hours away. Often wish stayed local-er. But like idea of people building tons of motors, v. 1-2 a week.

Summary question:
Any NorCal folks with engine rebuild tips, would greatly appreciate your insight.

(probably should have made this a separate thread from ID).

Derek
 
HIPO 289 BLOCK

A crate engine sounds great until you start adding up the extra costs of switching over to a 6 bolt crate engine. Ford Racing 302 long block crate motor @ $3900. A bell housing to toploader @ $550, timing cover @ $150, water pump @ $150, 50 oz.balancer @ $350, 50 oz.flywheel @ $350. Your probably looking at $6000 for a 302 crate motor for the Tiger. Alternative: A 331 stroker kit for your 5 bolt hi-po block. Add aluminum heads and it'll "rip your face off " when you hit the loud pedal for couple thousand less.
ROGER
 
Ditto Ditto Etc.

chirodoc said:
A crate engine sounds great until you start adding up the extra costs of switching over to a 6 bolt crate engine. Ford Racing 302 long block crate motor @ $3900. A bell housing to toploader @ $550, timing cover @ $150, water pump @ $150, 50 oz.balancer @ $350, 50 oz.flywheel @ $350. Your probably looking at $6000 for a 302 crate motor for the Tiger. Alternative: A 331 stroker kit for your 5 bolt hi-po block. Add aluminum heads and it'll "rip your face off " when you hit the loud pedal for couple thousand less.
ROGER
Click to expand...

More Ditto: We also have learned to long stroke the little 260 with iron 289 heads, a mid-range cam and 580 carb & headers. This stronger torque curve with a few more revs will turn your knuckles white long before the car gives up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top