Dash tonneau studs too short with new dash pad?
- Thread starter Cdntiger
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studs
Hi Paul, you need to use a stud that has the longer sheet metal screw threads so it can reach through the foam to the metal. You may be trying to use the 3/8" long size, there is also a 1/2" and 5/8" length.
I ran into the same thing years ago when I replaced my dash pad. I called Rick at SS and he sent me the longer style.
You can't use the type of stud that is threaded and uses a nut because the lower piece of sheet metal in that area prevents you from getting to the underside of the upper shelf.
Hi Paul, you need to use a stud that has the longer sheet metal screw threads so it can reach through the foam to the metal. You may be trying to use the 3/8" long size, there is also a 1/2" and 5/8" length.
I ran into the same thing years ago when I replaced my dash pad. I called Rick at SS and he sent me the longer style.
You can't use the type of stud that is threaded and uses a nut because the lower piece of sheet metal in that area prevents you from getting to the underside of the upper shelf.
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pad
they can be used. there is a guy here that installed them in my cars when he restored them. it requires drilling a hole in the second layer of metal so a socket fits thru it. it's not difficult. he also does the same thing to the two layer panel around the back of the car. this was done to one of our cars in 1994 and they are still secure in the body. even if the tonneau shrinks the studs remain in place.
they can be used. there is a guy here that installed them in my cars when he restored them. it requires drilling a hole in the second layer of metal so a socket fits thru it. it's not difficult. he also does the same thing to the two layer panel around the back of the car. this was done to one of our cars in 1994 and they are still secure in the body. even if the tonneau shrinks the studs remain in place.
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disclosure of all information
You can do anything to anything with enough modification.
If you suggest an alternative solution or part that requires cutting additional holes or drilling the body, not just a straight replacement, it helps to disclose the full extent of works required. Otherwise its not really helpful.
You can do anything to anything with enough modification.
If you suggest an alternative solution or part that requires cutting additional holes or drilling the body, not just a straight replacement, it helps to disclose the full extent of works required. Otherwise its not really helpful.
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studs
there is an old saying that I have heard many, many times." slight modification required". if you choose to use a part other than the norm then common sense should come into play on how to install it. if you see something blocking direct access make a decision on what to do. if you are not comfortable making a slight modification then maybe the car needs to be in the hands of somebody that is.
there is an old saying that I have heard many, many times." slight modification required". if you choose to use a part other than the norm then common sense should come into play on how to install it. if you see something blocking direct access make a decision on what to do. if you are not comfortable making a slight modification then maybe the car needs to be in the hands of somebody that is.
Warren
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Many moons,
I have had a convertible with a tonneau as a daily driver. Unless you use the threaded with a nut that seems best. The sheet metal screws can be backed up with a spring steel speed nut but eventually the flogging will wiggle that out too. I always drove with the passenger side covered and the wind plays havoc with most of the studs.
I liked the Tanax style the best but while English they are not correct and could be hard to detach up against the wind screen.
In Torrance there is Evans auto upholstery with a very nice selection. I only found them at the advice of my upholstery guy. I have some pretty long ones at home if you are still in a pinch in your locale.
I have had a convertible with a tonneau as a daily driver. Unless you use the threaded with a nut that seems best. The sheet metal screws can be backed up with a spring steel speed nut but eventually the flogging will wiggle that out too. I always drove with the passenger side covered and the wind plays havoc with most of the studs.
I liked the Tanax style the best but while English they are not correct and could be hard to detach up against the wind screen.
In Torrance there is Evans auto upholstery with a very nice selection. I only found them at the advice of my upholstery guy. I have some pretty long ones at home if you are still in a pinch in your locale.
A vid on how the rivet nuts work - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7yIqKnLGPc
Thanks for all the great info guys, since the new dash pad is already installed, I'll get the studs with longer screws on my next order from Rick.
Now I'm having problems getting the windshield frame to seat properly, I'll start a new thread...
Cheers,
Paul
Now I'm having problems getting the windshield frame to seat properly, I'll start a new thread...
Cheers,
Paul
My local ACE hardware has them in the specialty fastener section.
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pad
over the last few years we have found the crash pads have an excess of foam on the bottom side. they need some of it removed on the sides near the doors in order to get the windshield frame to fit right. the shop that has done the last three cars for me also does not glue the entire crash pad.
over the last few years we have found the crash pads have an excess of foam on the bottom side. they need some of it removed on the sides near the doors in order to get the windshield frame to fit right. the shop that has done the last three cars for me also does not glue the entire crash pad.