Warren
Gold forum user
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- 3,872
Just like on the my heater core guys in the past must have put really hi pressure cap on my car and created stress fractures. The fractures are a little close to the middle and the two halves of the tank.
I have soldered many copper home re pipes together but it still makes me nervous as the cracks are close to the center seam. The micro fractures are barely a weeping drop or two, but its not Summer. I have had lots of plumbing fun with big steel tanks and it's really impossible to get all the metal fatigue out of a tired tank. You just end up with job security so to speak but with yourself as the client that doesn't make sense.
I started with a paint stripper followed by a white vinegar salt water solution shake out with nuts and bolts so. The outside also got a emery cloth and thorough cleaning. Putting the vinegar solution in after the outside was really clean highlighted the compromised micro fractures.
I'd much rather do a light epoxy on the exterior then risk getting heat too close to the main seam. I'm guessing that they used a 50/50 lead tin solder and am not sure what temp the new solders will melt at. I had planned on using a modern 95/5 that I use on my plumbing but that was when I thought it was a corrosion in the bottom of the tank problem.
I do have some old 60/40 and 50/50 about but am not sure about the proper flux.
I thought I'd post her the questions as I bet every stinking one of these tanks have the same problem even the ones that sold for big bucks on eBay.
I think Randy of the other guru's have suggested just taking the clam shell apart then hiding a new tank inside. I am off to scrounge the internet but appreciate any ideas as the goal here is drive it to points North, or East as a period stock with light LAT personalized manner.
I have soldered many copper home re pipes together but it still makes me nervous as the cracks are close to the center seam. The micro fractures are barely a weeping drop or two, but its not Summer. I have had lots of plumbing fun with big steel tanks and it's really impossible to get all the metal fatigue out of a tired tank. You just end up with job security so to speak but with yourself as the client that doesn't make sense.
I started with a paint stripper followed by a white vinegar salt water solution shake out with nuts and bolts so. The outside also got a emery cloth and thorough cleaning. Putting the vinegar solution in after the outside was really clean highlighted the compromised micro fractures.
I'd much rather do a light epoxy on the exterior then risk getting heat too close to the main seam. I'm guessing that they used a 50/50 lead tin solder and am not sure what temp the new solders will melt at. I had planned on using a modern 95/5 that I use on my plumbing but that was when I thought it was a corrosion in the bottom of the tank problem.
I do have some old 60/40 and 50/50 about but am not sure about the proper flux.
I thought I'd post her the questions as I bet every stinking one of these tanks have the same problem even the ones that sold for big bucks on eBay.
I think Randy of the other guru's have suggested just taking the clam shell apart then hiding a new tank inside. I am off to scrounge the internet but appreciate any ideas as the goal here is drive it to points North, or East as a period stock with light LAT personalized manner.
