Wanted Heater core

6 or more

I have 6 but all are questionable.
The tubes don't seem to be very resilient when rodding out with a 1/16 welding rod. Plus there's a center bracket that keeps the end cap from bulging. I'm too darn busy now to give it a 3rd try. I can solder em fine but it seems like you need a cherry one to start with. Or don't disassemble and rod and re solder unless you have free time...
Brian if you have a nice one email with particulars or call and chat . I'm not counting the scrap ones I have. Brass is .65 cents a lb if you remove the tin ends and they don't complain about the lead slopped on.
 
Cores

I run white vinegar thru them until clear and then test with 30 lbs. of air while holding the caps from expanding. The process is extreme enough to find any flaws without tearing them apart.
 
Hmm

A fellow on the Alpine group likes dollar store toilet bowl cleaner.
 
$

I've already sent Rick my allocated tithe for the year last year;)
It's already by passed. This car also has the original top , well what is left of it.
 
Champagne

Taste on a PBR budget. Luckily I have a couple AC housing's to soften the outlay for things like factory looking oil filter and cooler hoses, on other gotta buy parts. Some old rubber you just can't trust. I'd like to have original parts but I'm paying for impatience by using a improper brass flat stock or the welding rod to clean the tubes. Maybe the 3rd try will succeed on cleaning a stock one if nobody comes through for me.
 
Heater Core

Just removed my core that has been bypassed since last summer (leaked and bowed out ends) I bought used one that looked great, but failed the pressure test.

Decided that installing an old one (especially since it's not in view) was rather foolish and a problem down the road. The new heater core I received from Rick looks very solid.

However, I did find the reason I've always been rather hot while driving. Seems a previous owner installed an early MK1 heater valve that works opposite from the MK1a style required, so now looking for the correct MK1a style since Rick is not carrying the later MK1a type due to unreliability.

Any MK1a/MK2 heater valves out there?

Tom
 
Test before

My point was test before installation and possible repairs. A tube leak is problematic to repair. The idea is to start with a core that passes a sub 30 psi test only removing one end if it could pass for a maracca:)
I tried 2 repairs and the first was an exercise in soldering and the second was either over zealous rodding or it had a tube leak in the first place.
 
Other leaks

I've had about 3 or 4 expansion tanks that had stretch marks from being too thin. Pretty easy to by pass the heater core on the side of the road. Not so easy to epoxy a tank. If you are concerned with bulletproof system add a heavier SS new tank.
 
Most restorers install a strip inside the ends to help keep them from ballooning out. So if you are going to have the side tanks off you might think about a mod like that.


I recently got lucky and got a tank repaired for $40. Few places will work on them now-a-days. And some charge $100 to resolder the tanks. That makes the new $170 tanks from Rick at S.S. seem more reasonable.


Buck
at the beach
 
Tin

The edges are made of tin and pop at a low 20 psi on a survey of two of the ones I have been playing with. There is a center tab as I recall and I wonder how it is originally attached to the end cap.

169.50 plus tax and shipping is the heater matrix AKA heater core and as a small corner of the money pit so about 200 bucks.

Sorry, that I added to the discussion the header tank AKA expansion tank formerly a NLA item at S.S. now about 500 shipped. Adding to the topic, was my way of telling about a needed part since Rick does not update the catalog or advertise new items. There's been a couple of other vendors but this one Rick sells is simply heavier metal and a dead ringer for the original. And yes I have a original tank that will get split in half and repaired on the inside by soldering. I have seen several chrome plated and that seems a flashy but effective way if nickle copper copper then chrome but then you are further down that money pit.

One of the two radiator shops left I know of is a 40 dollar guy is gone now so I get it oh and yea there was no proposition 65 warning on the outside of his shop. I do not think he was killed by the lack of a sign it was the many boxes of cheap plastic and ally radiators from China and elsewhere. The replace side of that shop is still there and he seems to be doing well as a general mechanic.

Thanks for the many comments be glad to work on my car projects again soon..

It'd be easier to spend if I did not have 3 other cars in waiting. I did trade the 3 rd newest hoarder acquisition for a bathroom remodel labor. Close to 10 years in the hoard for that one but it's going to a good home
 
Heater system emergency shutoff

Here's what I just installed to quickly solve any heater system leaks in the future.
 

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Healey?

Cool Tom , that's way more elegant and easy then my emergency kit Home Depot plug. Is it from a big Healy and Moss Motors?
 
Got one

Gotta go get it. A somewhat reasonable facsimile and much cheaper being under $80 is an MG one. I'm sure it would work but I can't dilly dally around
On my newest old car....
But for those of you considering El cheapo heater core here's a picture of an MG version next to the stock Tiger Alpine one
 

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warren- you keep trying to make chicken soup with chicken crap- my used ones look new compared to those POS- your losing it
 
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