Hot Lash - Engine Off or Running? & Brake issue?

DCTiger

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All right, engine running after cold lash set for hipo cam and mechanical lifters.

Question, is hot lash done with warm engine off or while engine running?

I have been reading numerous articles and they are mainly saying warm engine off, but I have also read articles where you either have modified valve covers or special clips that are supposed to divert oil down so as not to shoot directly out while engine is running. Still messy.

Regards,
 
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We always set them with engine running and both the clips and cutout valve covers to keep oil from running all over the headers. The clips just keep the oil from squirting out of the rocker arms and getting all over you, but the valve covers seal the bottom rail and keep the oil in the motor.

I haven't owned solid lifters in 20+ years since my Boss 302, so the theory may have changed and engine off may be how to go now.
 
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What I Thought

Thanks for the confirmation. Ordering a set of valve covers that I can cut up.

Got the clip-on diverters already.
 
Hot Lash Is Not That Bad

I took a 2 day evolution to complete the effort, one side at a time. Also I only cut one valve cover. Also everything gets so darn hot.

First off, figure out how much you need to cut off of the valve cover. I did an initial cut but until I put them on the car, I had no idea where to cut. Need to cut the lower half so that you can fit the feeler gauge in which is one inch from the lip. That is sufficient to also have enough to keep the oil from leaking onto the engine/manifolds. The top doesn't really matter.

Also the oil does not shoot out and I did not need the deflectors (anyone want to buy an unused set?)

This was not a messy evolution like I thought or dreamed what could happen.
The main issues were access to the rear intake/exhaust rockers and the rear valve cover bolts. Also getting to the valve covers was a PITA and required removing the generator on the passenger side.

Things to note: make sure you reconnect the choke tube to the carburetor and plug the PCV otherwise you're engine will not idle.

Also I bought some lock nuts to put on top of the newly adjusted rockers to keep them from loosening. Otherwise, it was a very straightforward evolution.

Now on to my locked brakes, which I am attributing to the rebuilt servo. Any thoughts? Getting closer to being officially on the road. I don't count the alley test run where my brakes locked up.

Also put on my registered CA Black Plates with my San Jose British Motors license plate frame.
 
DC Tiger Servo Tests

Slightly elevate front wheels and see if they spin. Yes: move to next step. No: Loosen booster in/out line. If wheels don't move with the line loosened, it ain't the booster. DO NOT START CAR. Assuming wheels move and lines are bled & snugged, pump up the brake pedal and hold it down firmly. Start motor (in neutral) and you should feel the pedal creep forward as the booster gains vacuum. Let off and try moving the wheels again. If stuck, loosen the line again. If that frees them up, booster needs tuning . . . . .
 
Randy, started car before I read post

Locked up again in alley.

Will try your steps once car cools down.

Thxs,
 
Another Quicky

Locked up again in alley.

Will try your steps once car cools down.

Thxs,

Lift wheels and make sure they are free. Again, DO NOT START CAR, pump up the brakes and release the pedal. Wheels should be free once more. This helps isolate the problem to either an occasional binding calliper piston or the failure of the main servo vacuum piston to return to rest. 50/50, I have found the servo control piston at fault and/or a snag in the main vacuum can catching the leather seal.
 
Looks like servo?

Randy,

A few days since: Lifted car up and wheels spun.

Pumped pedal and front wheels locked, did not start engine. Loosened input line on servo, wheels spun.

Pumped pedal again and wheels locked. Looks like servo.

What do you mean by tuning/adjusting the servo?

Thxs,
 
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