Hub out of round

Warren

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Had this problem with two sets of wheels. The gap is not consistent around the circumfrence of the rotor bearing outer surface.

Getting ready to grind the outside of the cast hub to make a 1/8 more space for the wheel cap center as it stayed on for 300 miles some how.

I got the car with another set of wheels on it and had the same problem but it tightened down fine and just decided to fall off today, luckily while parked the center cap came off in my hand.

You can see in the pics the non concentric not round hub.

So grind a little or what?

Pic 1 whole wheel. pic 2 about 5 oclock pic 3 12 to 1 oclock.

The wheel is snug with the proper lug nuts designed for the Pannasport wheel
 
Either grind the wheel center or try and get a 1/4" spacer if you have the room.
 
Are you saying the hub is not round? or are the wheels you are fitting the problem. I would think the latter.
 
FYI

Are you saying the hub is not round? or are the wheels you are fitting the problem. I would think the latter.

I have some hubs here that, although the machining is fine with the centerline being the same for the bearings and lug bolts, it IS NOT in the center of the casting. It does not have any effect on use with most wheels. This does not mean that this is your issue, but I would suggest some simple dimension checking with a micrometer from lugs and lug holes to center casting diameters.
 
Just a reminder that Tiger hubs are make so that the wheels mount lug centric, meaning that they center on the lugs, not the hub center.

If the hole in the center of the wheel is too small and the wheel center is contacting the hub center at any point, it could be throwing off the centering of the wheel on the hub itself. That would cause the lug nuts not to go down in the center of the wheel lug hole. A much bigger potential safety problem than the cosmetic one of the hub covers not fitting or staying on.

You need clearance all the way around to be sure the wheels themselves are mounting up properly. Obviously that would include with the wheel hub covers installed.

Gene

PS and Edit: Upon rereading my post, I apologize to Randy for essentially repeating what he already said, even if in a slightly different way. I will leave the reply up, in case it adds anything to the basis points he already has made.
 
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Thanks Gene

You are very clear. With stock wheels there would never be a problem. The lug nuts are correct for the wheels in their design and fit down nicely and flush with the wheel. I am very careful to let the lug nuts find the center of their hole in the wheel by hand then hand torgue them again by hand.
On inspection with the wheel off the shoulder is thicker where I have the problem. This would never be a problem with stock wheels and I suspect there was not much concern with quality control in this area of the hub.

When I got the car the tires were 20 plus years old and had no hubs I suspect the PO never put them on as they just would not fit the previous 13's that were on the car. I tried these caps on the 13's and the 14's I now have on the car. I had to slightly loosen lug nuts to get caps on with these and the stayed on for 300 miles only to find the one hanging by a thread if you will at the local drive in show at Rubys.

The car drives 110% better than the 13's I had with the flat spot old tires they have no high speed issues with the new tire wheel combo purchased from Dale as take offs from a fellow Tiger owner that went to 15's

I am off to grind it spacers push the wheel out more and all these California drivers get really angry when the Sunday driver slows to go thru water rather than spray it all over the side of the car. The drivers side already hangs out far enough.
 
Hardtop repair parts

FWIW, Victoria British still lists the bottom window rails in their online catalog.

I bought one from them for the left side several years ago. I also bought some repair panels for the left rear corner (one of the corners anyway...). Both still sitting on a shelf still awaiting me getting around to the project...

There is a company in the UK, Alpine West Midlands, Ltd that lists the rear corner panels, rear cross piece under the window, and the quarter window rails. Curiously, the part bar code numbers on the parts I bought from Victoria British were the same numbers in the West Midland's catalog. I am not particularly happy with how they formed the window rail part where the side latch mounts, but I think I can make it work. When I get around to it.

Randy, are you are thinking of having your body panel artisan reproduce these repair parts? If so, I could probably loan you what I have on the shelf to see if they would help as patterns to make your own patterns. Postage both ways, for your account and return in a reasonable amount of time in same condition as sent would be my only requirements. PM me if interested. Just a though.

Gene
 
BUT

FWIW, Victoria British still lists the bottom window rails in their online catalog.

I bought one from them for the left side several years ago. I also bought some repair panels for the left rear corner (one of the corners anyway...). Both still sitting on a shelf still awaiting me getting around to the project...

There is a company in the UK, Alpine West Midlands, Ltd that lists the rear corner panels, rear cross piece under the window, and the quarter window rails. Curiously, the part bar code numbers on the parts I bought from Victoria British were the same numbers in the West Midland's catalog. I am not particularly happy with how they formed the window rail part where the side latch mounts, but I think I can make it work. When I get around to it.

Randy, are you are thinking of having your body panel artisan reproduce these repair parts? If so, I could probably loan you what I have on the shelf to see if they would help as patterns to make your own patterns. Postage both ways, for your account and return in a reasonable amount of time in same condition as sent would be my only requirements. PM me if interested. Just a though.

Gene

Thx Gene but, Rule #3 is never make a copy of a copy. I have a wounded original top hanging from the ceiling. Bob & AL will pick & poke at it to see what can be done at a reasonable cost.
 
Whoa George

Our fearless leader told me he had sold a hardtop and repair panels to George, then he responded to my PM here as a left turn to this thread.

I have access to a squaring shear and sheet metal brake and was contemplating bending up my own.

Since I only bought the top and live in So. Cal. it is not on the 1st to do list.
I will look at what is available and appreciate the input. I have still to get out to the desert to cut up a parts car for trade so let me know what's up.

It was amazing the top looked as good as the one on Epay now till I got it off and it crumbled away. Under the house paint a soccer ball dent with a high spot area to be heat shrunk, boy I hate that.....
 
Thx Gene but, Rule #3 is never make a copy of a copy. I have a wounded original top hanging from the ceiling. Bob & AL will pick & poke at it to see what can be done at a reasonable cost.

Randy, I totally understand. Just thought that sometimes something is better than nothing as a starting place. Sometimes can lead to design improvements.

I did learn all about Rule #3 when working residential construction in the Summer between high school years while cutting a batch of wall studs on a radial saw without a jig stop. Fortunately, or not, my boss was my dad.

Sometimes these days I forget how much I used to know.:D

Gene
 
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