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When devising some sense of a safety shut off I added a 'Kill Box' that is attached to the center console behind the shifter and fire system activator. The box has a toggle switch and a light indicating the state of the system, that is if light is ON, car has fuel pump and ignition enabled. If light is OFF then pump and ignition is 'killed'. This circuit is in series with the switch in the fuel filler in the rear of the car. In addition another switch is on the dash as well as a key switch (both not easily reachable while in a harness). So the need for a kill switch that could be reached while being in a harness or other limited movement situations. Done.
BUT totally forgot about the Inertia/Roll Over switch common to your everyday car. So this was to add yet one more series switch into the network that can shut the car off in the event of a bad smash up or a roll over when you can't get to a switch.
The box was made up and it was tight to squeeze in another connector but decided to use a 12mm Industrial DIN connector and modify the wiring to pass it through the connect and back into the series circuit.
Had to do some grinding to slip in the connector and be able to tighten up the inside nut on the connector. A few mods and done. Just waiting for the connector to the Inertia Switch and will mount the switch on the back next to the drive shaft tunnel where I can reach it if the need arises.
Sandy
Original Hammond aluminum box, had a cord gland with the wires coming out going to the Dash connector.
Adding a hole for the new connector
The spacing was not great since the gland was in the middle of the box, had to get it as close as possible to the edge and grind room for the nut
Due to various attempts to fit, had to going in a bit twisted, but it can't rotate, and now solid!
The cable end attached will go to the Inertia Switch
Guts of the small box. This will bolt to the trans tunnel. The wiring get some solder, heat shrink and a connector on the switch. Will likely also make a plug that can be used as a 'Jumper' in case I need to bypass a bad or flaky inertia switch
Bolted it back together, will need to re-open to install bolts that hold it to the tunnel
Inertia Switch, should be bolted to a flat vertical surface so they say...
BUT totally forgot about the Inertia/Roll Over switch common to your everyday car. So this was to add yet one more series switch into the network that can shut the car off in the event of a bad smash up or a roll over when you can't get to a switch.
The box was made up and it was tight to squeeze in another connector but decided to use a 12mm Industrial DIN connector and modify the wiring to pass it through the connect and back into the series circuit.
Had to do some grinding to slip in the connector and be able to tighten up the inside nut on the connector. A few mods and done. Just waiting for the connector to the Inertia Switch and will mount the switch on the back next to the drive shaft tunnel where I can reach it if the need arises.
Sandy
Original Hammond aluminum box, had a cord gland with the wires coming out going to the Dash connector.
Adding a hole for the new connector
The spacing was not great since the gland was in the middle of the box, had to get it as close as possible to the edge and grind room for the nut
Due to various attempts to fit, had to going in a bit twisted, but it can't rotate, and now solid!
The cable end attached will go to the Inertia Switch
Guts of the small box. This will bolt to the trans tunnel. The wiring get some solder, heat shrink and a connector on the switch. Will likely also make a plug that can be used as a 'Jumper' in case I need to bypass a bad or flaky inertia switch
Bolted it back together, will need to re-open to install bolts that hold it to the tunnel
Inertia Switch, should be bolted to a flat vertical surface so they say...
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