Possible source for heater blower and peripherals

X

XTIGERX

Gold forum user
Messages
501
This is a link to a different item but I see in the product description "we also make (on the ORIGINAL TOOLS) the heater blower unit, heater water valve and mounting bracket, heater rad, and heater cable for the Sunbeam Alpine". Would also work for the Tiger, eh?

You can see the items just below the large image at the top of the page.

From an eBay U.K. seller (NA)
http://cgi.ebay.com/SUNBEAM-ALPINE-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a669680a1

Justin
 
I have watched their auctions over time. I was thinking, given they obviously have the pattern for the original, why not contact them and ask to make one thats much higher pressure than stock.. say 15-20lbs and avoid the issue of the core buldging.
 
Yeah, a little stiffer end caps would be nice. Not sure what it would take to spring a pin hole leak in the original material.

I removed my core about a year ago and the ends were bulged out and plugged solid. Relocated the heater valve into the plenum per a 1976 STOA shopnote except I used the 2 existing holes without needing to make another hole. I never have liked the looks of that valve and control cable in the engine compartment.

The drain stem had broken off that complex fan blower collector/boot as well. So I fashioned something out of copper tubing and clamped it in place along with some sealant.

Justin
 
Heater

Hey I was looking at your pics and installation. Is the original heater valve just hanging there or clamped somehow to the core? Also most heater hose has a larger id than the fittings on the core valve is that steel braided stuff a smaller id? And you got it from where? I'd prefer std rubber hose though. Thanks W.
 
Warren, that's #10 stainless braided aircraft tubing purchased at your local speed shop. That was done 4 years ago, don't recall any problems with core attachment but the return end to the manifold gave me a fit. The tubing was a bit small at that point. I also bought just the braid to slip over the rubber hoses so they would all match.

The heater valve is supported by the 2 hoses. Doesn't move no where to go. Here is another down looking shot.There are a couple other related pics in my profile.

After a few oil changes 25-30 years back and to make room for a new coil I remoted the oil filter and used the same braided aircraft tubing there.

Justin
 
One more question

Does the heater core just lay on the metal surface of the blower well? I am once filled with coolant it might not bobble and work back and forth. It seems like some cushioning would keep it from rattling about in there but I see your point about not having far to go. Thanks W.
 
source

the heater core had two strips of padding that were about one inch wide that were wrapped around it. the material was of the type you find under most carpet sets.
 
The material in the heater core was a jute felt IIRC.. you can get it from online suppliers, if originality is not an issue I would probably replace it with a high denstity closed cell foam, make 2 strips and wrap it around the edges to hold it off the metal.
 
heater

enough jute for the heater core can be picked up out of the scraps at any upholstery shop. that way you don't end up buying a bunch of unneeded product from an online supplier.
 
Thanks

The diagram looks like a piece of plumbers tape in the on line manual. Closed cell seems good. Moisture bad, dry good. Having a PIA on a heater valve, with the Honda number. Auto parts stores say they can get one then _________ insert crickets chirping___________.
Rube Goldberg must have been a relative as I am thinking a mini ball valve with a more modern push pull marine cable.
Thanks W.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top