Steering wheel restoration

eagleman1022

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The original wooden steering wheel on my Tiger is now restored but needs a new plastic surround for the hub. A photo of the wheel may be attached if I attached it correctly. Does anyone know of a source for an original or reproduction of this plastic hub? I'm thinking of trying to create a mold for it so that I can make a new plastic hub if they aren't easily available elsewise.
 
Eagleman

This months Rootes Review from TE/AE has an article on this very subject. If you do not have access, let me know and I'll get you a copy.

Jim
 
New Hub

The original wooden steering wheel on my Tiger is now restored but needs a new plastic surround for the hub. A photo of the wheel may be attached if I attached it correctly. Does anyone know of a source for an original or reproduction of this plastic hub? I'm thinking of trying to create a mold for it so that I can make a new plastic hub if they aren't easily available elsewise.

The guys we use for our stuff are Ken Corbin & Chris Reed in Colo. Send me a PM and I'll drag out the address for ya.
 
steering wheel restoration

Hi all: I am bringing back this thread because it is the best title on our site for finding information on steering wheels. I could not find all the information I need searching steering wheel, steering wheel restoration etc. I have a nice steering wheel that needs hub repairs.

I would like to build a thread with the following: Correct color of the wood and finish, how to restore the hub yourself, links to or articles posted here on how to restore your wheel, discussion of wheel problems and issues, vendors that restore the wheels, individuals interested in fixing their wheels and maybe a joint repair with a vendor to do a bunch of our wheels at a discounted rate. Prices for ebay wood wheels are $200 bottom to $700ish restored. My wheel shown was a $200 shipped ebay wheel. The one on my car has a perfect hub but the wood needs to be re-glued and refinished.

Lee, always trying to be helpful.
 
I bought a book and some epoxy clay to restore my hub. I think I got it from Eastwood.

Essentially you mix the epoxy and work it into the cracks and gaps. The file and sand to shape and smooth. Follow with a coat of semi gloss paint.

There are people who have made complete hubs by CNC machining a chunk of black delrin.

I restored my wheel over 10 years ago and the hub still looks good. It got a hairline crack in the epoxy but you can't see it unless you look real close.

A word of warning on stripping the finish off the wood. On my wheel from a late Mk1a, the black stripe was made of plastic and the paint stripper melted and bubbled the stripe.

Some people say the stripe is ebony wood but NOT on my wheel.

I had to pick all the plastic out of the groove. Machine some strips of black ABS on a mill Glue them into the slot and sand it all down flush. Then use wood filler to fill in the small chips that were unavoidable during the plastic removal.

Talk about a feeling of being in it deep and fully committed.
 
JB Weld

I used JB Weld on the last wheel I did.

First , I took a Dremel and V the gracks and splits. Then I reached in with compact soldering iron and fused the cracks together. Then skim coated with the JB Weld. I did leave enough below surface for a thin final coat of plastic filler. Prime and paint satin black or gloss then knock down with 600 and then rubbing compound. Be careful what rattle can paints you mix together as today's re formulated products are not compatible and its easy to have a nice job go wrinkle finish :eek:

Plus one on the old wife's tale of the black plastic being Ebony wood. My bet is a guy scored a stock wheel and had to explain it to the MRS when she heard how much, and the white lie was born. "Of course it was that expensive look at the fine Ebony wood detail and crapsmanship." :cool:

Most of the good old strippers non water based will eat plastic. So avoid them as well as the heat stripping electric or torch methods.

I would pick a black colored resin next time as I replaced the broken out plastic with wood putty and even colored and stained wood putty will only yield 5' results. I finally ended up masking and painting with a very good quality black enamel then covered with 5 to six coats of good old boat varnish, which improved it to 2' quality.

If that route is chosen the wooden edge does break out on removal. If it does break you will wish you left it alone. It is a very fiddly and PITA to remove broken sections of the plastic . Unless there are big areas already gone, I'd avoid changing plastic.

That wheel I repaired is gone with the MK1a but looked one of the best parts on the 10' car it was affixed too.

I have the old STOA articles to share
 
Warren: I love JB weld and use it on most everything. I don't think it is the best application here. My hub as shown needs the plastic glued together for strength. We need more discussion but the Eastwood goop seems the best. I also used a very expensive product used to glue an oldsmobile fiberglass hood to metal liner together. This stuff is also used to glue car panels in place. Cant remember the stuff but I still have the tube at the other house. Lee
 
No chemist

But know that epoxies are pretty similar and the magnesium silicates and other ingredients can make a difference. When you read the articles and all the stuff I did you come up with the reason that they come apart in the first place is the different expansion rates of the plastic and the metal in the hub. Lee your Pentastar car is living up to the old saying "Put a Dodge in your Garage." cuz that is where it always is:D

I do not think whatever you do it won't be out in the sun long enough to suffer and re crack. As a matter of fact you could probably get away with the crappy water based interior varnish:rolleyes:

I'm just teasing Lee. I do not think it's proper for me to copy and paste the articles here . I am totally unsure of STOA's policies of republication of their articles. We are working on things please notice all the tag search references we add to help in your searches.
 
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