tech tip for intake manifold installation

[Austin Healer]

The intake manifold is in a confined space with the engine installed. I have found a lot of attempts at fitting a new intake, or refitting the original results in massive oil leaks. This is usually because the rear cork gasket gets slid out of position when the intake is re-installed. Here's an easy solution to this problem!

Before refitting the intake manifold, install 5/16 studs in each corner (of the heads). I always recommend using a product like Permatex "ultra black" around the water port sections of the intake gaskets and a liberal application of the same product above AND below the cork gaskets at the front and back of the intake valley. The studs will hold the intake manifold gaskets in place and will allow the intake to be dropped vertically square, so that the cork gaskets do not slide out of position.

Once the intake manifold is in place, install the remaining intake manifold bolts loosely, and then remove the studs at the corners.. Install the remaining 4 intake manifold bolts and torque to spec! This will result in no oil leaks, or gasket movement.

 

[sandy]

If you can it's often best to NOT use the cork gaskets and just just some high temp (or your favorite color) silicone. The cork is going to leak at some point. I have not used intake end seals on motors in over 20 years and have never had leak when the surfaces are cleaned well (important). It's also important to silicone the area where the block and head meet up, that is sometimes an area of a small leak. I run ARP studs on most of the intake race motors so manifold drops on easily in one shot, not sure if possible on the Tiger, but on it makes it a lot easier to align things when installing the manifold, and like AH said, keeps the gaskets in place with no movement. For the intake gasket (besides silicone around water passages) everyone has their sealer of choice, I have had good luck with Hylomar (blue snot sticky stuff) and found it also to be easy to remove when breaking down a motor. Their are a bunch of different formulas (some with solvent and some without), it is somewhat expensive. I think Hylomar is a British product for those that care

 

[CLIFF_MK1]

Thttps://www.amazon.com/Hylomar-SL303HL-040M-Instant-Blister/dp/B00ALTZV9U
T
There is Hylosil Instant Gasket, $33/tube at Amazon, and Hylo Clean for removing silicone.

 

[sandy]

Thttps://www.amazon.com/Hylomar-SL303HL-040M-Instant-Blister/dp/B00ALTZV9U
T
There is Hylosil Instant Gasket, $33/tube at Amazon, and Hylo Clean for removing silicone.

I don't think that product can be used on intake manifold areas where gasoline exists. Looks to be more silicone based.

This is the stuff I got a while back, somewhat expensive but good stuff. I also, years ago got it from rebranded from Permatex, same stuff but was less expensive. Not sure if still rebranded by them, but here is the link to what I used, they have a bunch of different thickness, and with or without solvent style. I think this does have a bit of solvent in it. I recall that you can clean it with Acetone. A few years back at SEMA I walked by the booth for the USA division and was talking to the guy and he handed me 2 large tubes of it! I think he didn't want to haul it back and was happy to meet someone that was using his product.

https://amzn.to/3lA9EgJ Amazon link to Hylomar

 

[Austin Healer]

I don't think that product can be used on intake manifold areas where gasoline exists. Looks to be more silicone based.

This is the stuff I got a while back, somewhat expensive but good stuff. I also, years ago got it from rebranded from Permatex, same stuff but was less expensive. Not sure if still rebranded by them, but here is the link to what I used, they have a bunch of different thickness, and with or without solvent style. I think this does have a bit of solvent in it. I recall that you can clean it with Acetone. A few years back at SEMA I walked by the booth for the USA division and was talking to the guy and he handed me 2 large tubes of it! I think he didn't want to haul it back and was happy to meet someone that was using his product.

https://amzn.to/3lA9EgJ Amazon link to Hylomar

I only use sealant around the cooling ports on the intake manifold gasket. I generally agree with just using sealant at the front and rear of the intake manifold valley on Chevy motors as the rubber gaskets are absolute crap. I've never had a properly install cork gasket on a Ford engine fail in 40 years of wrenching

 

[sandy]

Hell yes on tossing the crappy Chevy rubber end seals! Those were made to leak and squirt out, wasn't until someone yelled at me for using them and showed me to only use silicone that I figured it out

 

[Agent 861]

If you can it's often best to NOT use the cork gaskets and just just some high temp (or your favorite color) silicone. The cork is going to leak at some point. I have not used intake end seals on motors in over 20 years and have never had leak when the surfaces are cleaned well (important). It's also important to silicone the area where the block and head meet up, that is sometimes an area of a small leak. I run ARP studs on most of the intake race motors so manifold drops on easily in one shot, not sure if possible on the Tiger, but on it makes it a lot easier to align things when installing the manifold, and like AH said, keeps the gaskets in place with no movement. For the intake gasket (besides silicone around water passages) everyone has their sealer of choice, I have had good luck with Hylomar (blue snot sticky stuff) and found it also to be easy to remove when breaking down a motor. Their are a bunch of different formulas (some with solvent and some without), it is somewhat expensive. I think Hylomar is a British product for those that care

Hylomar is used by Rolls Royce -again for what it is worth =-Karl

 

[michael-king]

Hylomar is used by Rolls Royce -again for what it is worth =-Karl

Any recommendation of what a British manufacturer used to prevent oil leaks should be taken with a massive grain of salt....
Almost like a tobacco company giving advice on how to stop smoking

 

[Austin Healer]

A short history lesson on British cars... When the Brits invented cars, they had "total loss oiling systems"... What that means is, there was NO oil pan. The oil ran out the bottom of the engine onto the ground. This had a couple of positive benefits. The oil all over the underside of the car kept it from rusting in a very wet climate, AND it kept the dust down.

No wonder British cars leak... they were designed to from the get-go. Making them not leak is a completely foriegn concept!

 

[Agent 861]

A short history lesson on British cars... When the Brits invented cars, they had "total loss oiling systems"... What that means is, there was NO oil pan. The oil ran out the bottom of the engine onto the ground. This had a couple of positive benefits. The oil all over the underside of the car kept it from rusting in a very wet climate, AND it kept the dust down.

No wonder British cars leak... they were designed to from the get-go. Making them not leak is a completely foriegn concept!

True -However you can't get any more American than my 1910 Hupmobile and that has a total loss oil system and boy does that leak oil. Even the Model A has a large hole in the bottom of the flywheel housing with a big split pin in it to stop it blocking up and allow oil to drain out of it .

 

[IvaTiger]

A short history lesson on British cars... When the Brits invented cars, they had "total loss oiling systems"... What that means is, there was NO oil pan. The oil ran out the bottom of the engine onto the ground. This had a couple of positive benefits. The oil all over the underside of the car kept it from rusting in a very wet climate, AND it kept the dust down.

No wonder British cars leak... they were designed to from the get-go. Making them not leak is a completely foriegn concept!

Very true. If it does not leak oil there is something wrong My Austin Healey Sprite has an Archimedes oil seal so it will always leave a drop or 2 of oil on the ground when the engine is shut off

 

[spmdr]

Back in my Pre-Tiger days (1970s), I had a 65 Mustang with a 289

that all of a sudden started leaking oil.

I traced the leak to the intake rear cork had popped out on one end.

Back then, RTV was quite new and I had not used it.

I figured, if it works, it would be worth the high price.

I trimmed away the offending cork, cleaned away the oil, and some of the paint.

With some Carb cleaner, the GOOD stuff, back then....

And troweled in the RTV.

It worked like a Champ and I have been using it ever since.


Of course, RTV when wet is quite slippery, so using it on the

Intake cork only makes the cork want to shoot out all the more.

And also, the side gaskets tend to move around too.

So, like others, I gave up on the intake cork.


I use RTV to glue the intake side gaskets in place, holding

them in place with the intake lightly snugged down until the RTV is hard.

Then pull the intake back off and put RTV on as much of the intake gasket surfaces that

see coolant.


Keeping the rear intake coolant block off surfaces (most intakes) covered with

RTV is the trick to keep that surface from corroding.

And, one thing not mentioned is the bolt torque.

Long ago, I concluded the SM recommended torque is TOO much for a Performance engine.

The torque is so high (some SMs say 24 ftlbs) to change the valve lash!

I use 16 ftlbs and then re-torque the intake when cold.

DW

 

[Austin Healer]

True -However you can't get any more American than my 1910 Hupmobile and that has a total loss oil system and boy does that leak oil. Even the Model A has a large hole in the bottom of the flywheel housing with a big split pin in it to stop it blocking up and allow oil to drain out of it .

All Healeys have the same hole in the bellhousing. There is no rear main seal in these engines, just a reverse spiral groove. when the engine is running, the oil is directed back into the oil pan. when stopped the oil leaks right past. Hence the hole and cotter pin. the solution to keeping oil from contamination the clutch.

 

[65beam]

All Healeys have the same hole in the bellhousing. There is no rear main seal in these engines, just a reverse spiral groove. when the engine is running, the oil is directed back into the oil pan. when stopped the oil leaks right past. Hence the hole and cotter pin. the solution to keeping oil from contamination the clutch.

The Alpine engines have the reverse spiral grooves on both ends of the crank without front or rear main seals. The opening on the bellhousing is probably 1/2" and does not have a cotter pin.