The Unexplained

hottigr

hottigr

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My Tiger has seemed to defy conventional wisdom for years. For decades, I would have to pull the filler neck back on the nozzle in order to put gas in my Tiger. I found a small crack in the overflow hose connecting the 2 tanks and fixed it. Ever since, all I have to do is put the nozzle in, set the catch, and wait for it to fill up- and it shuts off automatically when full. Then, there was case of grinding gears in my transmission when the car was in NEUTRAL and I would depress the clutch pedal. Wobble. The latest incident, however, takes the cake. Ever since I’ve owned this Tiger (35 years now), the tach has never been accurate, nor has it gone beyond 2500 RPM’s. I checked several things; the loop, anything that might be binding, etc. It is worth noting that I have a factory mechanical dual point distributor, stock ignition, except for the hotter Petronix coil I put in a couple of decades ago. I even tried one of the new tachs with solid state internals, and it was not accurate, either. Flash forward to today, I changed the points and the rotor- the cap was good, as was the capacitor, just like I have a dozen times before, and went for a test drive. The tach is now working!! Huh?!? I’d never seen 5K RPM’s before today, let alone 4K or 3K! I’m waiting for William Shatner to step into my garage and put me on “The Unexplained”…
 
hottigr said:
My Tiger has seemed to defy conventional wisdom for years. For decades, I would have to pull the filler neck back on the nozzle in order to put gas in my Tiger. I found a small crack in the overflow hose connecting the 2 tanks and fixed it. Ever since, all I have to do is put the nozzle in, set the catch, and wait for it to fill up- and it shuts off automatically when full. Then, there was case of grinding gears in my transmission when the car was in NEUTRAL and I would depress the clutch pedal. Wobble. The latest incident, however, takes the cake. Ever since I’ve owned this Tiger (35 years now), the tach has never been accurate, nor has it gone beyond 2500 RPM’s. I checked several things; the loop, anything that might be binding, etc. It is worth noting that I have a factory mechanical dual point distributor, stock ignition, except for the hotter Petronix coil I put in a couple of decades ago. I even tried one of the new tachs with solid state internals, and it was not accurate, either. Flash forward to today, I changed the points and the rotor- the cap was good, as was the capacitor, just like I have a dozen times before, and went for a test drive. The tach is now working!! Huh?!? I’d never seen 5K RPM’s before today, let alone 4K or 3K! I’m waiting for William Shatner to step into my garage and put me on “The Unexplained”…
Click to expand...
Lucas electrics ...... Explained 😂😂😂
 
65beam said:
Sounds like my Opel GT that had a bad ground on the electrical system.
Click to expand...
I would have thought so, but I ran a ground straight from the negative post on the battery to the tach to eliminate that possibility. I'm going with the Prince of Darkness...
 
The Prince of Darkness can rear his head if not kept under control. I learned that with my Anglia 105E back in my high school days in the mid 60's. I installed new wiring harnesses that I bought from Sunbeam Specialties in my last three Sunbeam restorations. The harnesses were made in the U.K. There aren't as many bullet connectors as the original harness. I replaced them by using spade connectors that have the clear plastic insulator sleeves. I also use electrical grease on all connections. Another thing I learned from Doug Jennings many years ago is to clean the body area where the battery ground cable connects back to bare metal and use grease to prevent rust or corrosion. This photo shows the new harness for the RHD car. It had a few of the old style bullet connectors.

109_0742.JPG
 
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