TRW Motor Mount Needed

O

Ohio Tiger

Bronze forum user
CAT Member
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35
Hey guys, wondering if anyone has the TRW motor mount for the RIGHT side (# 82221) that they want to sell. I have the left side but have not been able to find the right side. Thanks.

Bill in Ohio
 
Last edited:
TRW, no... perhaps NLA

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joel Martin
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 8:29 AM
To: Tiger List Serve
Subject: [Tigers] Motor Mounts


This is what I have learned from the motor mount discussion and the purchase
of 2 sets.

Federal Mogel Precision or Moog mounts are not consistent thickness of
rubber
from side to side. right was 1" thick and left was 1.25" thick and the
motor did not sit evenly.

The supplemental CAT notes indicated the TRW part numbers to be 82220 left
and 82221 right are no longer available that I could find.

The discussion of using the Anchor mounts , which can be sourced locally
from Advanced, are made in the USA and are part numbers 2220 left and 2221
right.
Both were 1.25" thick from side to side. Now the motor sits evenly.

It has also been recommended by 2 very knowledgeable list members that 5/16"
bolts, nuts and washers should be installed on 'either" side of the center
bolt on the mount as the rubber does not seem to hold up and will sage
within a short time.

Now that I have written this, is there some unwritten rule about listing
manufacture's and part numbers to protect our very few and dedicated sunbeam
suppliers - British Victoria excluded as I do not recall seeing this very
often?

I continue to learn 'daily' from your knowledge and appreciate the
responses.

Regards
Joel Martin
--------------------------------------

FWIW... I ordered the Anchors. But, if they're thicker... I may need to do some shaving? I see the point of bolting...
 
Mount Rubber

The mount rubber thickness and bonding strength has always been an issue. By using the 5/16" tie down bolts thru the rubber, it's possible to squeeze the compounds into identical thickness along with preventing torque tearing. I use grade 8 wedge-head screws with a nyloc nut plus thread locking adhesives. The felt vibration thru the frame does not increase any more than what is normal in a Tiger.
 
Pic or diagram of bolt location?

I'm reading lots of previous entries and Randy's last post... I assume we are talking about running a bolt to either side, parallel to the existing bolt. I do not understand how the head or nut would not interfere...?

Anyone share a picture or napkin diagram?
 
Pictures are worth, etc. etc.

DD (CA) said:
I'm reading lots of previous entries and Randy's last post... I assume we are talking about running a bolt to either side, parallel to the existing bolt. I do not understand how the head or nut would not interfere...?

Anyone share a picture or napkin diagram?
Click to expand...

Older photos from the files for ya . . . . .
 
They always are worth a lot...

But they generate more questions from the like of me...

I can understand how having bolts would tighten the durometer of the rubber, and could also improve parallel coplanarity... But I'm not sold on this method for shift prevention. Three vertical posts, should still be able to lean under shear force, no? EX: three pencils standing won't hold cardboard sheet anymore than one pencil.

I've seen the harder poly modifications and cages at the mustang Sacramento site. All look post 1965, so won't fit stock blocks.

Wonder about, however, forming more of a U bolt type method. What if the metal plate was separated from the rubber and either replaced or modified with multibolt welded and then passed through rubber to bottom. This would prevent shear and allow same durometer.

Thoughts?
 
From the Barnyard

DD (CA) said:
But they generate more questions from the like of me...

I can understand how having bolts would tighten the durometer of the rubber, and could also improve parallel coplanarity... But I'm not sold on this method for shift prevention. Three vertical posts, should still be able to lean under shear force, no? EX: three pencils standing won't hold cardboard sheet anymore than one pencil.

I've seen the harder poly modifications and cages at the mustang Sacramento site. All look post 1965, so won't fit stock blocks.

Wonder about, however, forming more of a U bolt type method. What if the metal plate was separated from the rubber and either replaced or modified with multibolt welded and then passed through rubber to bottom. This would prevent shear and allow same durometer.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Over thimking is an engineering malady. Put into practical use, the shear/tear/shift issues went away immediately after using the grade 8 screws as pictured. From the shade of the trees over the tailgate bench where knuckles gets busted . . . . . .
 
Never forget...

That those of us that are learning...truly appreciate the real world advice. Thank you Randy for spilling your blood (hopefully only knuckles) and sharing.

You are going to spit milk out your nose when you see my dash overthinking probably...lol...

Thanks... and FWIW same matching lesson given locally too...

Where's the fun if I can't innovate a new $99 motor mount, there must be a market. ;-)

D
 
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