Valve lash adjustment

bernd_st

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I'm still a bit puzzled of what is the best way to adjust hydraulik lifter valve lash. Have seen at least 2 different methods , i.e. during engine standstill - giving them one full turn after all lash out or during engine running loosening them until valve stars ticking and giving it a 3/4 turn. What do the specialists say ?
 
Put the cylinder you are adjusting on the compression stroke. Loosen the lock nut. Tighten the adjustment while wiggling the push rod when It stops tighten 3/4 turn to lock in place. The Ford manual says tighten 3/4 turn. Comp Cams website has a good description. If you try to adjust when running, oil will be all over the place.
 
Never on a running engine.


For Hydraulic Lifter Camshafts

When the exhaust valve just begins to open on the first cylinder in the firing order, adjust the intake valve by loosening the adjusting nut slightly while spinning the pushrod until you feel lash in the rocker arm. Tighten the adjusting nut until the slack is taken out of the rocker arm and pushrod. Lightly turn the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten the adjusting nut, and you should feel a point where there is a little resistance (this is called Zero Lash). Turn the adjusting nut ½-turn past this point, giving you optimal pre-load for the rocker arm, pushrod and lifter. According to Newman, “you should look for .030-.060 of preload in a typical hydraulic Lifter.” Follow this procedure by carefully adjusting each intake valve according to cylinder firing order.

When all of the intake valves have been set to the proper valve lash, you can adjust the exhaust valves. Utilizing the same procedure as with the intake valves, you need to turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up and rotates just past maximum lift. Now the exhaust valve can be adjusted. When all of the intake and exhaust valves have been set with the proper lash, it is common for all the top engine builders to perform a double check by rotating the engine and checking each valve again, starting from the first cylinder in the firing order.

I did it the way Bill describes and had lots of ticking. The above method ensures the cam lobe is 180 out on the valve you are adjusting. It worked like a charm and I have a very nice quiet idle now. I went between 1/2 and 3/4 turn.
 
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I put chrome moly push rods on my motor after the heads were done with guide plates. I was able to adjust the tension on the hydraulic lifters with the motor running by using some old steel Ford valve covers that I cut- taking off the top metal all the way around. No leaks using this method. That adjustment has lasted over 20 years!
 
Yea, what Duke said

I agree with Duke's method. I initially did the TDC method on my motor, very carefully as recommended by the builder (they said 0 lash plus 1/4 turn at TDC), and had several ticky rockers. I suspect the cam geometry of the huge cams isn't necessarily on minimum stroke at TDC. Using the method Duke spells out will make sure you're at the minimum of the lobe you want to adjust. Besides, then you don't have to have, or look at, a degree wheel, which can be a real pain in a Tiger.

Bob Knight
B9471705
B9471929
 
Sounds logic. For the amount of turn after zero lash there still seems to be disagreement. Afterwards we crosschecked with a Mustang manual and it also states 3/4. However and even we gave them 1 complete turn after zero lash all rockers were ticking initially until the lifters had filled up with oil. That means to me we should be still within plunger movement corridor...
 
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