Wiring?

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PITT40

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How many wires attach to the tach? Mine was removed and in a box for some reason. The wiring diagram shows a green I think and a white. I have a white with a plastic tab and it loops but does not have contacts.

I'm just scratching my head. I can't see where to check the wipers or blower to see if power is going to it because there is no plug to pull apart. They look like crimped permanent connectors. Are they?

Wiring issues kick my ass. I'm just frustrated.
 
Under dash shot of blower

The long connectors pull apart if they look like these. That will leave you a dongle tail on the blower itself. Try just pushing in on them if you suspect poor connection. And or, separate, clean contacts...try again.

I've the blower out now and could take a better pic with it disconnected, but this shot of headlights wiring (?) should give an indication.

Took apart other stuff on these before someone pointed out we could just pull those... doh...

Tach... searching
 
Hello PTT40,
The tach wiring should have a green positive feed via a Lucar push on spade terminal.
The white wire with the nylon piece has a loop for the tach circuit to sense the ignition ,this white wire runs from ignition switch to the ballast resistor.
This nylon part is fitted to the tach with a small metal 'U' shaped piece,washer,nut to the small threaded post on the back of tach,you may find that the original circuit is not as accurate now and the tach will need rebuilding,if so a better circuit will use a wire to the coil negative,and you will not need to connect this to the tach,but DO NOT CUT THIS WIRE.
The tach will also need a good earth to the case,usually via a ring terminal onto the stud on the back,which also helps to earth the instrument lights.This earth is from the underdash support brackets and fastened with a 1/4" UNF Setscrew.
The blower motor and wiper motor are all fed with a green wire.
The wiper must have an earth return to work,via the switch,and the blower green comes from the instrument voltage satbiliser,which in turn is earthed and fastend to the other underdash bracket,this time via a self tapping screw,or sheet metal screw.
 
Points ?

Remember the old Tach will not work once you change to a new Petronix or other ignition system.
The conversion S.T.O.A article is available, but I'm with you and the dislike of fiddling with wiring and gauge internals.

I am not even bothering with the old tach this time and going to a refaced Autometer.
 
The stock tach will not work if wired to an MSD box tach output wire? Ugh!

How much is an Autometer that looks like a Tiger tach?
 
eBay

PITT40 said:
The stock tach will not work if wired to an MSD box tach output wire? Ugh!

How much is an Autometer that looks like a Tiger tach?
Click to expand...

The last refaced Autometer tach Paul sold on eBay was over 700 bucks you can most likely see his ePay auctions I think he is daddytiker64 or paul@breuhan.com

I have one on order. What you need to source is a stock Alpine tach face and needle. Paul is a former Tiger owner who still has a home based biz.
We try to help each other out in Tiger world by scooping up the parts needed as you most likely don't want to take apart the stock tach as I do not. I did my original and was never happy with it's price and its function, plus now I have bigger RPM motor.

Other guys have the refaced tach and it is a great mod.
 
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Alpine tach

While I have a Pertronix ignition not MSD, I have a refaced Alpine tach. Works well if you can find one...
-Kevin
 
Duke Mk1a said:
The stock tach is crap. HP engine ='s autometer, there is no choice in this.
Click to expand...

Duke, most of us on the board know you... so we get the quick quips.... but c'mon... enough of the throw away one liners about anything stock being "crap" ... some people are going to take it the wrong way.... and some people who modifiy their cars get very touchy with critical feedback.
 
Mike's Right

Nothing is absolute and the "use case" determines what solution is best for any application. I could argue that all I need the tach for is to fill a hole in the dash. I use a digital with shift light in Blue. Better to look outside on track.

Rick
 
michael-king said:
Duke, most of us on the board know you... so we get the quick quips.... but c'mon... enough of the throw away one liners about anything stock being "crap" ... some people are going to take it the wrong way.... and some people who modifiy their cars get very touchy with critical feedback.
Click to expand...

No drama intended. PITT is building a high HP 347. He HAS to have a reliable tach and the stock 48 year old tach will never be close to performing at the level needed.

TigerBlue said:
I use a digital with shift light in Blue.
Click to expand...

You and Rob have the same advice. I will have a shift light in my car before the next drag season.
 
Duke Mk1a said:
No drama intended. PITT is building a high HP 347. He HAS to have a reliable tach and the stock 48 year old tach will never be close to performing at the level needed.



You and Rob have the same advice. I will have a shift light in my car before the next drag season.
Click to expand...

You should get a SI/II alpine tach face Duke... they have warning lights in the face ...... or use the spare hole for the alpine OD warning light and putt a correct rootes lamp in there with a LED to act as a shift light... all will look period and modern bits hidden.. wont even be "crap" :D:p

The early alpine tach actually has 2 warning lights... you could use one for the line lock!
 
michael-king said:
all will look period and modern bits hidden.. wont even be "crap"
Click to expand...

Gonna get a large shift light and mount it under the dash pointed down or in my glove box pointed at me. There will be no delay in seeing it while on the track.

rps-lyblk003_3305.jpg
 
Refaced Tach

I had West Valley Instruments in Reseda do my tach, I sent in a donor housing (actually an Alpine tach I bought on eBay for $40 or so) and had them put new guts in it and redo the face for a 6k redline, with correct appearing Jaeger lettering and what not for a "stock" Tiger appearance. That cost considerably less than $700.
Bob K.
B9471705
 
Bob,

A S3/IV alpine tach has the same fonts as the MKI/IA gauges and the tach reads to 6K... the SV alpine one matches the MKII and reads to 7k.
 
OK, so I'm willing to tackle the job. What model Autometer do you takes the guts from to install in an Alpine body?
 
Also, something is wrong with my speedo. The tripometer will not resent and I can't get it to add tenths when I hand spin the inside. How hard are they to take apart? If I get a donor from an Alpine can I change the mileage to match my car or install those numbers at their exact spot?
 
Autometer

Auto Meter 201004 about 140 bucks. Nice ideas guys with the shift light.

I especially like the hidden or pull out slap on dash n keep your eyes on the road or car on track model. Filling a dash plug is nice too for those freeway on ramp blasts. Picture this "Gee officer I wasn't exhibiting speed" with the light taped to dash:cool:

Pitt if you can't find a core Alpine speedo I think have one you can have for shipping cost. Please use email other than PM system.

I'm watching the mailbox for my refaced tach from Paul almost as much as waiting for the DMV to give me my INF 70 car history printout. Happy customers are the best advertising they say.....
 
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