headers

[drbill]

To my fellow Tiger enthusiasts, thanks for the help on my post about the traction bars.
New question: I've got a set of the CAT club headers and need to know the easiest way to get the old ones off and put new ones on. The shop manual says to take off the heads, but is there another way? I've thought about loosening the engine mounts and jacking it up some to see if the headers will clear. Is this viable?

Thanks,
Bill

 

[cobrakidz]

I have done it twice while installing the engine. I am sure it's a bear to do with the engine in the car.

 

[0neoffive]

To my fellow Tiger enthusiasts, thanks for the help on my post about the traction bars.
New question: I've got a set of the CAT club headers and need to know the easiest way to get the old ones off and put new ones on. The shop manual says to take off the heads, but is there another way? I've thought about loosening the engine mounts and jacking it up some to see if the headers will clear. Is this viable?

Thanks,
Bill

Safely block the car at creeper ht. so that it will not fall on your face. Floor jack a wooden block under the oil pan so you can balance the weight without dropping the car. Loosen the mounts and the headers one side at a time. You will catch on real quick that the frame mounts and the header wiggle in together. The starter will also need to be loosened and most often removed. Play safe . . . . . . .

 

[cadreamn67]

Randy quite thoroughly answered your direct question so nothing more I at lease could add there.

I do want to make a strong recommendation that you have the headers professionally "Jet Hot" (no affiliation) or equivalently coated if you have not done so. Talking about the professional coatings done inside and out, not an external rattle can application. Those professional ceramic type coatings help the motor run a lot cooler by keeping exhaust heat inside the headers, keeping engine bay temps down and reducing radiant heat into the cabin through the firewall. The headers also will last a lot longer and look good in the process.

Gene

 

[67 Tiger]

When I did mine 25yrs ago I used a hoist to hold the motor. I was able to move the motor up & down, and side to side a little.

 

[chirodoc]

HEADERS

I don't want to throw cold water on your header project, but I would pospone their installation to the time when you pull the motor for clutch or engine refreshment. When the motor goes back in you install as a package. I don't know about the latest edition of the club's headers, but earlier versions needed some minor adjustments with a BFH and a grinder, which is easier accomplished out of the car. If you don't pull the engine, bolt your headers to a borrowed head on the bench and check socket clearances on all the bolts and spark plugs before installation. Reference the recent posts About GTP heads and headers.

 

[drbill]

Safely block the car at creeper ht. so that it will not fall on your face. Floor jack a wooden block under the oil pan so you can balance the weight without dropping the car. Loosen the mounts and the headers one side at a time. You will catch on real quick that the frame mounts and the header wiggle in together. The starter will also need to be loosened and most often removed. Play safe . . . . . . .

Hey, thanks! Will the oil pan hold the weight of the engine without bending it? Obviously, I will use a block of wood to spread out the load, but even still.....

And I do plan to have them coated prior to install...

Thanks, Bill

 

[cobrakidz]

I have always shied away from using the oil pan for a jacking point--if you have to try and spread the load over the whole underside of it.

 

[0neoffive]

Hey, thanks! Will the oil pan hold the weight of the engine without bending it? Obviously, I will use a block of wood to spread out the load, but even still.....

And I do plan to have them coated prior to install...

Thanks, Bill

yup, a wide wood block works just fine, and a healthy oil pan will handle all the weight fine & dandy. Resist the urge to jack it up or down too far or SNAFU can occur. My rule of thumb is to pick a side and unbolt the frame mount from the wheel well while the pan weight is snug. Once a side is free, you can make safe and minor adjstments as needed.

 

[67 Tiger]

If you dont have an engine hoist, you could hook a come-along to the joist in your garage, if possible. With a hoist the motor wont fall and you are able to get a little wiggle room. Anyway you look at it, the job is a pain. Ive removed my headers twice, once to paint , and once to change the starter (just the right side only) ,first time was with a jack, the second time was with a hoist. The hoist was an easier way to go. just my 1cent.

 

[at the beach]

We just replaced headers yesterday.

We used a scissors jack with a piece of 3/4" plywood on top to distribute the load. This was placed under the front edge of the Aviaid oil pan.

We supported the engine then loosened the the motor mount bolts. We then used the jack to raise the engine another 1/4". Once it was raised another person rock the engine to the left and the right side so the header could drop out.
Repeated process for the other side.


bt

 

[drbill]

yup, a wide wood block works just fine, and a healthy oil pan will handle all the weight fine & dandy. Resist the urge to jack it up or down too far or SNAFU can occur. My rule of thumb is to pick a side and unbolt the frame mount from the wheel well while the pan weight is snug. Once a side is free, you can make safe and minor adjstments as needed.

Yes, it worked just fine. I was able to get the left side out today and will leave the other side until I actually have the new headers ready to go in. The trick was removing the 3 bolts which attach the engine mount to the frame. Thanks!
Bill

 

[tgrrr]

Just got mine from Jet Hot today. Look good!

 

[drbill]

Just got mine from Jet Hot today. Look good!

Man, those look too pretty to put on the car! Nice. Did you pre-fit them to do any tweaks prior to coating?
Bill

 

[Duke Mk1a]

Did you pre-fit them to do any tweaks prior to coating?
Bill

I hope you did as I did not and discovered that at least five of the bolt holes did not have enough relief bent into the header tube to easily get them in and out (most could not use a socket on them). Due to the header coating being damaged on the engine dyno, I put the needed bends in the headers before sending them back to Jet-Hot for a free re coat.

 

[66TigerMK1A]

I didn't tweak my CAT headers before coating...( or while installing! ) there were a few tight spots but I had a couple of sets of header bolts... both were gr. 8 and one had reduced heads that took a 5/16" socket... and the others had an allen head... like these..http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mr-Gasket-3420G-Hex-Head-Socket-Head-Header-Bolts-/400280382681?hash=item5d3291ecd9&item=400280382681&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_100&vxp=mtr

I've only seen them in packs of 12 tho... ( for Chebbies )


Jim
B382000446