Going alternator?
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Surging On
12 ga = 20 - 25 amp plus short time surge
10 ga = 30 - 35 amp plus short time surge
8 ga = 40 - 50 amp plus surge
Surge can be considered to be battery recovery from starter draw down or several items running at once. Stranded copper wire with 105C. insulation can run longer & hotter. Short wire runs can be a smaller gauge for intermittent use (like your power drill gets by with 16 ga stranded wire).
12 ga = 20 - 25 amp plus short time surge
10 ga = 30 - 35 amp plus short time surge
8 ga = 40 - 50 amp plus surge
Surge can be considered to be battery recovery from starter draw down or several items running at once. Stranded copper wire with 105C. insulation can run longer & hotter. Short wire runs can be a smaller gauge for intermittent use (like your power drill gets by with 16 ga stranded wire).
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Duke's alternator brackets
Duke, before I "scale" up the drawings shown in this thread and ruin a couple of pieces of 1/2" aluminum, might you have the full size drawings that you could email to me. Thanks for the drawings already in the thread. Is 1/2" aluminum (and which aluminum) thick enough to not cause vibrations or twist? If you can't provide the full size drawings, would you mind if I create a full size template for distribution? That's assuming I can make one set that works.
Duke, before I "scale" up the drawings shown in this thread and ruin a couple of pieces of 1/2" aluminum, might you have the full size drawings that you could email to me. Thanks for the drawings already in the thread. Is 1/2" aluminum (and which aluminum) thick enough to not cause vibrations or twist? If you can't provide the full size drawings, would you mind if I create a full size template for distribution? That's assuming I can make one set that works.
Warren
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Grrreat
Hope the wing nut doesn't hit the hood. My Black car had an obvious repair on its steel hood underside and I have seen more than one owner change something and drop the hood and bang!
I know its still ruff and in a plain white wrapper still but it's never fun creating more dents and not much fun taking them out.
Hope the wing nut doesn't hit the hood. My Black car had an obvious repair on its steel hood underside and I have seen more than one owner change something and drop the hood and bang!
I know its still ruff and in a plain white wrapper still but it's never fun creating more dents and not much fun taking them out.
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Dukes bracket
I did redraw dukes bracket. I'm not sure of his original alternator dimensions, but I redrew according to my GT40 heads (same bolt pattern as the 260 head, but there are varying bolt sizes from 1964 thru 1997) and a new 93mm Denso Mini Alternator (3 wire) with 40a output. The alternator was ordered on Amazon for $71.49 and supposedly good for a street rod or race car. The alternator should arrive on Friday, Jan. 2nd. I'll continue to "mock up" using my paper template, then order some 1/2" 6061-T651 aluminum plate to be cut on the band saw and drilled on the drill press to make the final mounting plates. Then it is just cutting the right spacers to line up the V-belts using a laser level. Anybody have any suggestions as to what material (and source) to use for the spacers? The wiring should be straight forward and the 3-wire configuration will allow using the stock "ignition" light on the dash. Did I miss anything? plus, keeping the alternator down to a 40 amp unit should allow using the original 12v hot lead from the alternator.
I did redraw dukes bracket. I'm not sure of his original alternator dimensions, but I redrew according to my GT40 heads (same bolt pattern as the 260 head, but there are varying bolt sizes from 1964 thru 1997) and a new 93mm Denso Mini Alternator (3 wire) with 40a output. The alternator was ordered on Amazon for $71.49 and supposedly good for a street rod or race car. The alternator should arrive on Friday, Jan. 2nd. I'll continue to "mock up" using my paper template, then order some 1/2" 6061-T651 aluminum plate to be cut on the band saw and drilled on the drill press to make the final mounting plates. Then it is just cutting the right spacers to line up the V-belts using a laser level. Anybody have any suggestions as to what material (and source) to use for the spacers? The wiring should be straight forward and the 3-wire configuration will allow using the stock "ignition" light on the dash. Did I miss anything? plus, keeping the alternator down to a 40 amp unit should allow using the original 12v hot lead from the alternator.
I sat the hood down gently and it does not appear to hit. Now, when the engine is rev'd up and the torque twists it, that may be a different story. Before I drive it, I will put some Play Doh on top and shut it so I know just how much clearance I have.
I just used SS tube spacer. I bought them on Ebay and they came in 1.5" lengths. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-TEN-...592?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9a247c78 . The ones behind the bracket are 1.5" and the one on the bottom pivoting side of the alternator is 1".
Which brings up a question for Duke. My alternator does not fit against the bracket on the bottom. It's offset the opposite way as the bracket halves, so I needed a spacer between the alternator body and bracket. Did you?
Which brings up a question for Duke. My alternator does not fit against the bracket on the bottom. It's offset the opposite way as the bracket halves, so I needed a spacer between the alternator body and bracket. Did you?
Did I miss anything? plus, keeping the alternator down to a 40 amp unit should allow using the original 12v hot lead from the alternator.[/QUOTE]
Eagleman-
You will probably need a wiring harness as the Denso 3-wire is a plug in rather than a bolt on with respect to attaching the wiring.
See the link below to the harness I used:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291058508950?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Here is a link to the Denso wiring:
http://westfield-world.com/img/Denso1.gif
Eagleman-
You will probably need a wiring harness as the Denso 3-wire is a plug in rather than a bolt on with respect to attaching the wiring.
See the link below to the harness I used:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291058508950?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Here is a link to the Denso wiring:
http://westfield-world.com/img/Denso1.gif
66TigerMK1A
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I have a few pics of the setup that I took before I sent it to Duke if it helps at all... One of the reasons that I made it in 2 pieces was that I had some 1/2" X 4" flat bar kicking around and I managed to get both pieces out of that
If you go down to your local machine shop, they may have some chunks laying around...buying plate sounds $$$ I like working with aluminum as it easy to work.... some alum. round stock makes great spacers... I have a lathe so it was easy to fab... that adjustment slot was a PITA though... lol
I like the 3-wire setup better than a one wire... even a one wire can be converted as most cases are used for multiple apps and your local electrical 'guru' should be able to match up some 3-wire 'guts' for it. I've also seen the Densos anywhere from 40 to 100 amps
After the brackets are cut and cleaned up, a nice way to finish them off is a router with a 1/8" round over bit
oh... ya, there IS a spacer between the bottom 'ear' and the bracket... seems to me if the top 'ear' is bolted to the 'tensioner' bracket ( metric thread ), then it's about and inch from the bottom 'ear to the lower bracket. A little fine tuning might be required to get exact line-up with the water pump and damper pulleys... All this from 5+ year foggy memory
Jim
B382ooo446
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I have a few pics of the setup that I took before I sent it to Duke if it helps at all... One of the reasons that I made it in 2 pieces was that I had some 1/2" X 4" flat bar kicking around and I managed to get both pieces out of that
If you go down to your local machine shop, they may have some chunks laying around...buying plate sounds $$$ I like working with aluminum as it easy to work.... some alum. round stock makes great spacers... I have a lathe so it was easy to fab... that adjustment slot was a PITA though... lol
I like the 3-wire setup better than a one wire... even a one wire can be converted as most cases are used for multiple apps and your local electrical 'guru' should be able to match up some 3-wire 'guts' for it. I've also seen the Densos anywhere from 40 to 100 amps
After the brackets are cut and cleaned up, a nice way to finish them off is a router with a 1/8" round over bit
oh... ya, there IS a spacer between the bottom 'ear' and the bracket... seems to me if the top 'ear' is bolted to the 'tensioner' bracket ( metric thread ), then it's about and inch from the bottom 'ear to the lower bracket. A little fine tuning might be required to get exact line-up with the water pump and damper pulleys... All this from 5+ year foggy memory
Jim
B382ooo446
Hey Jim,
What are you using there for your dual brake upgrade?
66TigerMK1A
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It's from a '79 280ZX ... 15/16" bore. OEM Nabco... I'm running 1 3/4" 4 piston Wilwood Dynalite II's on the front and Porsche 914 rear calipers and I have the Wilwood proportioning valve and no booster... Works great!!
You'll notice in the pic that my relocated brake light switch now has about a 4" lead to the fuse box compared to running it over to the far side of the car... fronts are fed to the left side first and then across the cross member to the right one. The rear line goes to the proportioning valve and then on to the rear via the tunnel
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66TigerMK1A:
Well then thank you for the alternator setup. My buddy works in wastewater and he has all kinds of stock, so I got it for free. The slot was a pain in the ass. My one neighbor is a retired machine shop owner and has a complete shop in his basement. But he has cancer and I didn't want to bother him to cut that on his Bridgeport right now. So I just drilled holes along the arc and used a 1/4 straight carbide bit in an air grinder. It's tedious and not perfect if you really look closely, but it does the job.
Well then thank you for the alternator setup. My buddy works in wastewater and he has all kinds of stock, so I got it for free. The slot was a pain in the ass. My one neighbor is a retired machine shop owner and has a complete shop in his basement. But he has cancer and I didn't want to bother him to cut that on his Bridgeport right now. So I just drilled holes along the arc and used a 1/4 straight carbide bit in an air grinder. It's tedious and not perfect if you really look closely, but it does the job.
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thanks for the added info and photos
Thanks to all of you for the additional info, photos and links to the spacers and Denso harness. The forum members are an exceptional group willing to share and advise to help other members.
I have already placed the harness and spacers in my cart pending arrival of the alternator on Friday. I have a home made CNC machine that runs, but I haven't used it to cut anything because of possible contamination of my new engine. But, I did do a lot of fabrication from a piece of 3/8" x 6" x 48" 6061 aluminum for various parts for the CNC machine. The 1/2" aluminum should be very do-able based on the 3/8" experience. the aluminum is readily available from www.onlinemetals.com as is just about any other metal.
Thanks to all of you for the additional info, photos and links to the spacers and Denso harness. The forum members are an exceptional group willing to share and advise to help other members.
I have already placed the harness and spacers in my cart pending arrival of the alternator on Friday. I have a home made CNC machine that runs, but I haven't used it to cut anything because of possible contamination of my new engine. But, I did do a lot of fabrication from a piece of 3/8" x 6" x 48" 6061 aluminum for various parts for the CNC machine. The 1/2" aluminum should be very do-able based on the 3/8" experience. the aluminum is readily available from www.onlinemetals.com as is just about any other metal.
66TigerMK1A
Gold forum user
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Ya, I've found those guys pretty handy... especially for odd ball stuff like aluminum or S.S. 'hex' which the locals shops never stock ... I've bought quite a few things from them and it's relatively reasonable $$ too
Warren
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Metals
I know I am straying further away from alternators but the metals is on my list. Thanks for posting the link!
I just hate the LAT option scoop screen with the alloy expanded metal, looks like the stuff they sell at Home Depot and fixing it to the hood with gobs of silicone seal while period correct is ____.
Working on a perforated metal hood scoop screen wish I could get a stamping like the V-8 on the Stellings air cleaner.
I know I am straying further away from alternators but the metals is on my list. Thanks for posting the link!
I just hate the LAT option scoop screen with the alloy expanded metal, looks like the stuff they sell at Home Depot and fixing it to the hood with gobs of silicone seal while period correct is ____.
Working on a perforated metal hood scoop screen wish I could get a stamping like the V-8 on the Stellings air cleaner.
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