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Having just now dealt with this, I will provide an option that worked for us. After trying a wire and a piece of taped up flat aluminum plate with no luck. I looked at some pictures of the locking mechanism I took at TU42 and devised my own plan.
The picture is a mockup after the fact. I used a lot more tape and layered it 3 or 4 layers thick.
I taped both the body, and the hood in about 6" to 8" long strips of blue painter's tape. I then used a 2.5" wide 90-degree panel tool between the hood and the body and levered it perpendicular to the body line.
I was standing on the driver side of the car, while Cary pulled the hood release handle. and I pulled on the long side of the tool in the picture towards me. The stock hood flexed enough to release the latch. This made me very happy as it goes to the shop for all the suspension bushings next week and I didn't want to have to add this to the list.
This is how a lot of carpenters use a flat bar or hammer, to do demo work, remove trim from doors etc. I'm sure you can find a video if I'm describing it poorly.
The picture is a mockup after the fact. I used a lot more tape and layered it 3 or 4 layers thick.
I taped both the body, and the hood in about 6" to 8" long strips of blue painter's tape. I then used a 2.5" wide 90-degree panel tool between the hood and the body and levered it perpendicular to the body line.
I was standing on the driver side of the car, while Cary pulled the hood release handle. and I pulled on the long side of the tool in the picture towards me. The stock hood flexed enough to release the latch. This made me very happy as it goes to the shop for all the suspension bushings next week and I didn't want to have to add this to the list.
This is how a lot of carpenters use a flat bar or hammer, to do demo work, remove trim from doors etc. I'm sure you can find a video if I'm describing it poorly.