Is my clutch working?

[pappentl]

Argh, so close. My '65 has been off the road for almost 30 years. The body work is done, as is the paint. New wiring, all electrical components reinstalled and working. Rebuilt engine (runs) and trans linkage (trans was good all those years ago), new exhaust. Found the title, no mean feat after two moves and all those years.

So I go to drive it for the first time and I get grinding gears. ARGH. New steel flywheel (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6375-c302b), new Luk clutch kit (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luk-07-014), new master and slave cylinders; it's all new. Line is bled, I can see the clutch fork more. I removed the clutch rod and cleaned it up so I could adjust it to be a bit longer.

Now, with the car on jack stands I can disengage the clutch (pedal to the floor) and shift into first, when I let the clutch pedal out the rear wheels rotate as they should, when I depress the clutch pedal again the rear tires continue to rotate. If I brake with the clutch pedal depressed the rear wheels stop, but when I release the brakes the rear wheels spin again. It seems as if the clutch is not releasing or not releasing completely when the pedal is depressed.

Thoughts? Thinks I should try? Should I lengthen the push rod more? Anyone have issues with the parts I've used?

Thanks for any input, I really want to get this back on the road.

Tom
B9473100

 

[65sunbeam]

Are you using the stock clutch slave cylinder? And the pushrod is the stock one too? How much more adjustment do you have left on the pushrod?
How much free play do you have on the clutch fork when not pushing on the clutch pedal? If lots of free play, adjust the pushrod to take out most of it and try again-good luck! Eric

 

[pappentl]

Stock slave and rod. I took the rod apart and got it moving. I installed it and used the adjustment to take up all the slack. I probably have another 1/2 inch or more that I can extend the rod. I'm not sure how far is too far to lengthen the push rod.

 

[0neoffive]

Non-stock parts

Stock slave and rod. I took the rod apart and got it moving. I installed it and used the adjustment to take up all the slack. I probably have another 1/2 inch or more that I can extend the rod. I'm not sure how far is too far to lengthen the push rod.

First, use a syringe and drain the master & slave. Open the bleeder and compress the slave piston to the very bottom and figure a way to hold it there. Then gently tie back the clutch arm until the throwout is just touching the clutch. The distance between the slave piston and the clutch arm is what the rod length should be. With after market pressure plates, I have had to make much longer rods.

 

[pappentl]

Thanks for the replies. I took a slightly different approach, without draining the fluid I lengthened the rod until the pivot arm just started to more, I added almost an inch to the former stock location. The clutch now works, although the engagement point is still pretty close to the floor.

 

[DD (CA)]

The Original Post title still works....

My situ: Clutch pedal engaged, stick into neutral, clutch pedal disengaged (slowly easier to find this), while backing up part way, the car will grab, act as if it starts to roll (just a touch), and yet with pedal full disengagement the car doesn't move. Somewhere in the middle of the throw is some stiction....

Thanks for tips...