steering column

D

drbill

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I've noticed when driving the Tiger, especially at higher speeds, there is a slight movement of the steering wheel. I believe the tires are balanced properly as I was there when they were mounted and balanced.
I do notice a bit of play in the wheel when the car is stopped before the steering rack begins to move. I have replaced/tightened the bolt in the lower most pinch joint at the rack and that has helped some. Here's what I'm thinking:
1. The u-joints are worn and need replacing.
2. The upper column itself may need a rebuild anyway since the telescoping mechanism inside is buggered.
3. The upper u-joint kisses the header pipe just enough to scrape the coating off. Slight movement when pull/push on the outer column. It needs to have the rubber wrap replaced where it mounts on the bracket.
Any other ideas? Does anyone have a spare column already rebuilt?
Thanks,
Bill
 
Rack and Pinion?

Taking a stab in the datrk, is it possible that the rack and pinion needs adjusting? I just looked in my workshop manual, which has a list to go over when diagnosing steering faults. Many of them are obvious or do not apply to the symptoms you described, but thought it would not hurt to list all:
1. Lack of lubrication - steering arms.
2. Underinflated tires.
3. Wheels out of balance.
4. Tires unequally worn.
5. Tires of different tread pattern.
6. Wear in steering components.
7. Improperly adjusted steering unit. No where in the manual could I find how to adjust the steering unit, though.
9. Front hubs requiring adjustment.
10. Rear axle out of alignment.
11. Defective front springs.
12. Loose steering unit or other components.

Good luck!
David
 
The workshop manual states that if there is excessive play in the rack then you should exchange it for a new one, not much help really!

I’ve got the same problem with my Tiger. I dropped the front suspension, replaced the column u/js, changed the track rod ends, lubricated the rack, checked all the bushes (which were fine) and had the wheel alignment and camber adjusted.

There has been some change to the feel of the steering (probably due to the correcting the camber on the front wheels) but the steering still doesn’t feel as direct as I’d like. Having someone move the steering wheel while I’ve got my head buried in the engine bay shows that there it the very tiniest amount of play in the rack, certainly less than I’ve seen on other cars with steering that has felt much more positive.
 
The rack is fine. I have play in the column independent of the rack. I'm pretty sure the u-joints are worn, but I think the column needs to be gone through as well. For one, the locking mechanism is shot. Has anyone rebuilt these?
 
PITA, BUT

drbill said:
The rack is fine. I have play in the column independent of the rack. I'm pretty sure the u-joints are worn, but I think the column needs to be gone through as well. For one, the locking mechanism is shot. Has anyone rebuilt these?
Click to expand...

I've done an R&R on a few. The dog bone U-joints are actually pretty good and only once in a while do they need replacing. The cheap ball rollers in the column are another story and can have significant slop. One of the members makes much better replacements. The locking telescope splines and friction taper like a good cleaning, BUT, the tab that prevents extraction requires finesse and often replacement micro-welding.
 
Replacement column bearings

Understanding

"One of the members makes much better replacements."

Can someone kindly share a link or contact information for these bearings/races(?)

thanks,
 
I am pretty sure the reference is to Tim Moran who runs a pretty high precision machine shop in Texas along with other family members. He makes these bearings. He sells them on ebay, but may also sell them more directly. I do not know how to contact him directly, but the ebay listing is http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunbeam-Tig...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5642076a66&vxp=mtr

Keep in mind Oneoffive's caution in his earlier post about the challenges of disassembly and the possibility of needing to do some microwelding. I have not ventured there myself!:D

Gene
 
OK. But...

Are the bearings and races the same for top and bottom? these definitely look bottom.

And Randy's comment about the 'tab' microwelding... I'm not sure of the whereabouts, but assumed it was nearer the steering wheel (top of column)?

Maybe I'll just do the bottom and see if that eliminates the majority of the "marble" rolling feeling.

Thanks Gene
 
Patience & Caution

DD (CA) said:
Are the bearings and races the same for top and bottom? these definitely look bottom.

And Randy's comment about the 'tab' microwelding... I'm not sure of the whereabouts, but assumed it was nearer the steering wheel (top of column)?

Maybe I'll just do the bottom and see if that eliminates the majority of the "marble" rolling feeling.

Thanks Gene
Click to expand...

Careful: Whenever I do one of these, Mr. Murphy & his Law is lurking close by. Clean and wash it all spotless BEFORE taking off the lower snap ring. Make sure to make note of the sequence disassembly/reassembly, etc. The rest is patience and more patience. amen
 
steering rack

Hi Bill, after I rebuilt my rack and column on my mk2 I had the same issue, there was play between the steering wheel and the rack. It turns out one of the new u joints was bad so replacing it solved the problem.

If there is play in the rack you will have to pull it out and reset the end play per the instructions in the manual. You also have to check the pinion play and adjust with shims that should be under the cap.

The top and bottom bearings in the steering column are not sealed bearings, there is an open race and a flimsy cage that keeps individual ball bearings in place once the thing is assembled.

These bearings can be tapped out from either end but the first time I did it the balls popped out and they went everywhere and I lost a few. On the advice from a local expert I replaced them all with some I bought from Mcmaster Carr. They are cheap and you get 100 in a pack so there is enough to do 2 columns.

There is also a felt donut shaped seal in the bottom that keeps the dust out and also serves to keep the bearing lubed since it is supposed to be saturated in oil. I re used mine since it was ok but SS doesn't sell them, a local expert punches them out of flat felt sheet.

There is a guy in the northwest that rebuilds the column but it's not cheap.

I've never had the column apart to fix the adjustable aspect, the columns I've worked on have always been able to move freely.

Bob J.
 
drbill,
Before going to all the trouble of replacing steering u-joints, steering column rebuild, rebuilding the rack (all should be done but - ) check the easy stuff first.
I have had the same problem as you describe. It turned out that the pinch joints were not tightened up ENOUGH. This will cause slop at the steering wheel, and movement at the steering wheel before you see the steering joints move, and a moderate shimmy at the steering wheel at speed.
It is not enough just to tighten up the pinch joints snug. Use Grade 8 bolts at the pinch joints and tighten them down really tight. I have had times when I thought they were tight enough but just a little more cranking took all the play out of the system.
If that doesn't solve the problem then look into replacing the u-joints and/or rebuild the steering column.
If you are thinking of rebuilding your steering column use Jim Leach from the Pacific Tiger Club TIGEROOTES@aol.com. He does a great job and is pretty quick w/ the turn around. He's done 2 for me and when I start to tear apart the MKII - he will have a 3rd. It's really not worth doing it yourself, unless you've done it before, when you have someone that has done dozens. And his price is very reasonable.

John
 
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