1965 MI Mirror info
- Thread starter Steven43
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The flat mounting is series 1/II alpine.
The ridge is series 3/IV/ tiger
The ridge is series 3/IV/ tiger
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Hi Tony, very interesting. How is it applied, right over the existing but chipped silvering on the back, or do you strip all the coating off the back, then apply?
thanks for your time.
IvaTiger
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The old silvering needs to be removed first. As I remember I used paint stripper on the brownish red coating then metal polish removed the silver coating, this left the clear curved glass which I wiped with alcohol then applied the spray finish
I did buy a used sunbeam mirror which had only a slight curvature to it and found its reflection very different to my original one. Kind of like the difference of a passenger door mirror and a driver side door mirror.
Bear this in mind when you replace the rear view mirror
I am happy with the results of the re mirror finish from rust oleum and would rate as good as 90 percent and kept the original mirror
The finish is an aerosol can and about 5 coats are sprayed on about 1 minute apart It then mentions to spray a mat poly over the 5 layers of silver but I did not do that.
Warren
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Concur with the A mirror. I have a pretty nice B style that's better than nothing for someone.
Tony, I suspect that the poly is suggested because most mirrors can get moisture between the silvering and possibly the black housing and heat from behind the screen. How'd you pick the glass out of the housing. Maybe a piece of fishing line could be used separate the adhesive... I've been too chicken to attack this project.
I've just gotten through my 13 years of bad luck
Tony, I suspect that the poly is suggested because most mirrors can get moisture between the silvering and possibly the black housing and heat from behind the screen. How'd you pick the glass out of the housing. Maybe a piece of fishing line could be used separate the adhesive... I've been too chicken to attack this project.
I've just gotten through my 13 years of bad luck
IvaTiger
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If you take a new razor blade and using your thumb and first finger to set the blade at 1/8 inch you can run it tightly against the glass and outer plastic casing making sure it remains against the glass This will free the glass from the casing I found the remaining adhesive was not a strong bond against the glass and separated easily. The casing edges were a fairly tight fit to the glass and after re silvering the glass it kinda popped back into the casing enough hold that adhesive was not needed between the glass and casing only on the edgesConcur with the A mirror. I have a pretty nice B style that's better than nothing for someone.
Tony, I suspect that the poly is suggested because most mirrors can get moisture between the silvering and possibly the black housing and heat from behind the screen. How'd you pick the glass out of the housing. Maybe a piece of fishing line could be used separate the adhesive... I've been too chicken to attack this project.
I've just gotten through my 13 years of bad luck
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Really great info Tony, thank you for walking me through this. I am going to get started with my extra mirror….it’s in need of restoration.
IvaTiger
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While you have the mirror out make sure the swivel ball is smooth by scraping any pitted chrome and I lubricated it with a silicone grease. I believe if it is not smooth and lubricated it causes stiffness and stresses the mirror stem to the point of breaking and original replacements are hard to find I guess I am glad I inspired you to restore yours
Warren
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Amen Tony. Doh ... I can recall trying to budge a MK1A mirror and it snapped like a Twix candy bar. Certainly add that to the Tiger owner initiation, flying off headlight rings, stuck hood and snap goes the mirror.. oh and leaving a hunk of hair on the boot latch...