260 Pop-Up Pistons

This post has ranged off topic.

And settled into a competition for posting the last word regarding big motors vs small motors.


The conversation is about modifying the original 260 for more power and if it is a prudent thing to do with all of the much less expensive options.

Why would you stifle a very relevant healthy adult conversation? Did the OP complain to you? Whats wrong with friendly banter?

Are you acting as a moderator now and not admin?
 
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Why pop up's?

I hate to assume, but i figure you want pop up pistons, to raise the compression ratio, a good way to gain some power. I realize they would probley also weigh less. But wouldn't it just be easier to mill the heads? Lighter pistons, would rev faster, but how much faster? If you want to rev faster, couldn't you lighten the flywheel?
 
I made the original post simply to inform folks that reasonably priced custom pop-ups were available for the somewhat rare 3.8" bore. The follow-up question about the intent for using pop-ups is a good one. The short answer is if I use heads with bigger chambers I'd need pop-ups to keep the compression ratio about where it is now, allowing it to run without problems on the lower octane fuels we have today.

Here's the long winded explanation, some of which was contained in my earlier posts in this thread: As I mentioned earlier, I'm thinking about building a new street motor for one of our Tigers. I'm not afraid of experimenting. I don't plan on copying a known formula. I'm thinking about a frugal solution that meets my needs, not one that satisfies someone else. My thinking is tailored to my intended use. It is not a cookie cutter solution to impose on everyone else.

I use my Tigers. Thousands of spectators see our SCF race Tiger run every year. And we drive our street Tigers. In the past we've driven 3500 miles in ten days. Our Tigers are not garage queens that are trailered to events or occasionally carefully driven to a "cars and coffee" and then immediately garaged afterwards. My Tigers have the warts and patina that comes from this type of use. I know Duke is an owner who also uses his Tiger like we do but he seems to have found an anti-wart potion to protect his Tiger. (I think his secret is a lot more effort.)

For my uses on that particular Tiger, excellent MPG coupled with reasonable pep are my goals. I think decreasing the cubes to 260 would help the MPG. Stroking will not give me the mileage I want so it's not even worth me considering because it's not germane to my quest for better mileage. It's not a viable option for this use.

One of our Tigers has a 5-speed with a .62 OD. The OD cuts the revs by over a third. This helps mileage and makes it easier to talk/shout to my wife while rolling down the highway. It gets good mileage, in part due to the T-5 we installed for less than a thousand dollars, including the cost of the tranny. Frugal. The mileage in this Tiger is already about what Duke hopes to eventually get with his combination of stroker and TKO. That's great mileage but I'm greedy - I want more MPG. Moondoggie's greedy - he says he wants the stroker HP to crush replica Cobras. It's a trade off and my personal choice is to opt for mileage in this particular use. (Of course our race Tiger is a bit of a different situation with it's normal MPG at about 4!)

Anyway, I've been thinking about how to make the motor more efficient to further increase mileage while simultaineously increasing its output by a hundred or more horsepower. I don't know if it can be done much less if I have the skill to spec a suitable combination of components. My budget for this project is only $2-thousand dollars. Again Frugal. (This is also about the cost of the tires we destroy at Monterey each August. Not Frugal.)

To increase efficiency, I'll probably use a more modern Ford cast iron head head to improve combustion and breathing. I bought a set of modern heads to play with for a bit over $100. However these heads have much bigger combustion chambers. The pop-ups would be used to regain, not increase compression. (I love compression but I am limited by the fuel available today not to mention what may be available in the future.)

The additional benefit of using a light-weight custom piston is to decrease the stress on the rotating parts of the engine. I think this would increase reliability of the bottom end so much I could keep the stock crank and rods without worry, even with a major horsepower increase. Again, frugal.

About worry: Duke seemed worried about me using a "rare" (tiger 260) block. Over the years I've collected a half dozen of them. I might well use one of them. They are certainly "seasoned", but aren't we all?

bt
at the beach
 
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POP UP PISTONS

TAKE A LOOK AT WHAT FORD IS DOING WITH THE ECONO BOOST EXPLORER AND TAURUS SVT. SMALL DISPLACEMENT V-6 WITH TWIN TURBOS. 30 MPG, PLUS KICK IN THE PANTS PERFORMANCE WHEN NEEDED. HELLO "TWIN TURBO "JERRY PORSCH. THEN THERE IS A SHOT OF NITROUS AS A LESS EXPENSIVE ALTERNATIVE.
 
pistons

buck,
what octane fuel do you have available? are you restricted to a certain octane or can you use whatever works best for your engine? we sell a 118 octane race fuel. it's not your ordinary street fuel.
 
I'm not sure I understand the octane question.

On the track we are not restricted and almost all of us run a 110 leaded fuel.

However this thread is about 260 pistons for a street engine. As far as I know most of the country has fuel between 87 and 91 octane with lower octanes offered at higher elevations.

So for a street engine I have these two choices. I'm not sure whether to shoot for a premium or regular. I probably just build it around 10:1 and see if it will run OK on regular. If not it becomes a premium engine.

bt
 
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pistons

buck,
i'm trying to follow the election and think about sunbeams at the same time. i should have mentioned what octane in the race car. i sell some 118 racing fuel to some dirt track guys. i have others that use 110 and 112. it is unleaded. i was just wondering if you have restrictions on the race car as far as the octane of the gas or do you build the engines to run on the gas that is available.
 
Interesting topic. When I bought my Tiger I was told it had a 289 in it.

I wanted to try and achieve a similar goal as at the beach. I thought if I could use a moderate hyd roller cam and good set of Ford heads on the 289 it would perform well and give resonable economy.

I bought a set of GT40P heads for it knowing I would have to build my own headers. Once the engine was removed I discovered it was a 260 with 289 heads. The GT40P heads will not work on a 260, which maybe one of the biggest hurdles to modernise a 260.

I ended up buying a 50L HO short block to solve the problem. Comp is 10.1-1 so I will have to use 98 oct. The cam is a GT roller cam that I got with the engine, so the fingers are crossed that it will be ok at that comp.

I have a Tremec TR3550 sitting on the shed floor but I did not want to cut the floor of the car to accomodate it, so I will stick with the top loader..

Cheers Mal
 
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89 Octane

I run a 331 stroker in a Mexican 302 block wth flat top SRP pistons and Edelbrock RPM heads and hydraulic roller cam with a .520 lift at the valves. This combination produces a 10:1 static compression ratio and a 9.1:1 dynamic compression ratio. I run 89 octane gas with no knocking. pinging or run-on after shut down.

Gary
 
Inertia sucks?

I hate to assume, but i figure you want pop up pistons, to raise the compression ratio, a good way to gain some power. I realize they would probley also weigh less. But wouldn't it just be easier to mill the heads? Lighter pistons, would rev faster, but how much faster? If you want to rev faster, couldn't you lighten the flywheel?

The weight of a flywheel adds to total static inertia which is a drag on acceleration. An aluminum flywheel IS a small help in acceleration.

Lighter pistons? Not so much. Pistons stop twice each revolution. Each one slowing to a stop has another accelerating. The energy loss is nil.

The advantage of light pistons is proportionally less stress on the crankshaft, rods and bearings. Each crank throw and rod bearing deals with the acceleration and stopping of it's piston twice every rpm. And the loads only increase with rpm (and length of the stroke).

In the case of building a high mileage engine with decent power? the weight of the pistons or the flywheel are not significant at constant rpm. It is about efficiency in combustion and minimizing the pumping losses.

Smaller displacement helps. Lower rpm in cruise helps. Proper tuning essential.

The "drag" of pumping loss comes from intake strokes with high manifold vacuum. Throttle barely open. A modern band aid for this is cylinder deactivation converting an 8 to a 4 in cruise. An exotic and expensive solution applied to Chrysler Hemis.

When limited to the technologies of the 60's and a budget? less displacement and lower rpm together with optimum tune is as good as it will get for mileage in a Tiger.

Personally I like the combination of 260 close ratio toploader and 3.31 gears! Not so good for the mileage but proper tuning helped.

Rick
 
I ended up buying a 50L HO short block to solve the problem. Comp is 10.1-1 so I will have to use 98 oct. The cam is a GT roller cam that I got with the engine, so the fingers are crossed that it will be ok at that comp.

Cheers Mal

First my apologies to all for taking a slight tangent of the central thread here. Hopefully it is of some benefit to some.

Mal,

As you noticed, Gary mentioned "dynamic compression ratio" in his post. That is really what determines whether you can use what we call "pump gas" here. It is calculated based on the valve timing of your cam. I learned about it after I had already bought my cam for my stroker motor. Fortunately before the motor finished. I ended up buying a different cam. That was cheaper than new pistons or heads. A lot of good info on how to calculate the ratio and the range you want to be in is out there on the internet. PM me if you need help in finding it.

I know you guys can get higher octane gas than is readily available to us. Still, our 60's based motors do not have knock sensors and automatic ignition retard to deal with knocking. So my recommendation is to be sure the dynamic ratio is in the safe range before firing up the motor!

Cheers, Gene
 
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