289 5 bolt

kbecker

kbecker

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Have a question for the motor guys I just picked up 2 289 5 bolt motors both standard bore and look nice. One motor is bottom end only and looks quite nice, the other is mostly complete, but after removing the intake I see the lifter valley has been smoothed and the 4 vent holes enlarged. I guess the reason for enlarging the holes is self explanitory, but was it nessasary and will it hurt the motor. I was going to install a 302 but would rather use a 5 bolt block for a straight forward install. Would like to use the altered block since it won't be stock. 1 motor is a 63/ the other a 64 not that it matters, niether build date is close to my original 260. What you think? Kevin
 
5 bolt 289

Correct, but do you think the larger holes almost nickle size will have a negative effect or mostly no difference? I would think pressure wise it should be the same, but will there be to much oil sloth. I could always bring the the larger holes in spec, but why if I don't need to. Kevin
 
Holier than thou ?

kbecker said:
Correct, but do you think the larger holes almost nickle size will have a negative effect or mostly no difference? I would think pressure wise it should be the same, but will there be to much oil sloth. I could always bring the the larger holes in spec, but why if I don't need to. Kevin
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Won't matter at all. There are lots of other things a builder can do to screw things up, but drainage ain't one of them. I would be interested in the spare block for our shelf stock. Play safe, randy
 
Also, i'm sure you know this, but just in case, you can drop the 302 crank in to take the 289 out to 302. that way you get the 5 liter and the 5 bolt.
 
Ditto

michael-king said:
Also, i'm sure you know this, but just in case, you can drop the 302 crank in to take the 289 out to 302. that way you get the 5 liter and the 5 bolt.
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That's just the way I build our sneaky little 260's . Lots of torque from the little critter kind of surprises everyone . . . . .
 
Randy,

What do you use for pistons in the 260's? I have heard discussions about how you need to be careful stroking the 289's beyond 302 due to the piston skirts coming down lower in the bore than is ideal. I have also heard that the new pistons are a shallower design, so not such an issue anymore.

With a 260 I am lead to believe pistons are a little harder to come by.. what are you using with the stroked 260.. or is that a trade secret? :)
 
This looks like a good time to let everybody know I own the rights to a forged 260 piston, which can be machined to any compression ratio, pin height, and oversize.
The pistons are made by RaceTec/ AutoTec, which is run by most of the folks that worked for JE pistons.

Dale
 
5 bolt 289

michael-king said:
Also, i'm sure you know this, but just in case, you can drop the 302 crank in to take the 289 out to 302. that way you get the 5 liter and the 5 bolt.
Click to expand...

Thats my plan already have a 302 block ready to go that I bought new rods and pistons for. You do need to use 302 rods? (correct)
Randy I'll let you know if i decide to sell the other block. Kevin
 
5 BOLT 289

I too have a 5 bolt 289 awaiting a rebuild. The plan is for a 3.25 in stroker kit.
On the STOA website one of their members submitted his tale of woe chronicling putting together his stroker rebuild. He took his Eagle stroker kit to his engine builder and lo and behold the stroker crankshaft was machined for a 5.0 one piece rear main seal, but the 289 block is machined for a two piece seal.
I have yet to see stroker kits advertized with the option of one piece or two piece rear seals from Summitt, Jegs or others. Who and where should we be doing business with?
 
1 vs 2 ??

chirodoc said:
I too have a 5 bolt 289 awaiting a rebuild. The plan is for a 3.25 in stroker kit.
On the STOA website one of their members submitted his tale of woe chronicling putting together his stroker rebuild. He took his Eagle stroker kit to his engine builder and lo and behold the stroker crankshaft was machined for a 5.0 one piece rear main seal, but the 289 block is machined for a two piece seal.
I have yet to see stroker kits advertized with the option of one piece or two piece rear seals from Summitt, Jegs or others. Who and where should we be doing business with?
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Any half way decent machine shop can flip that block on it's nose and machine in the one piece dimension circle for ya . . . .
 
kbecker said:
Thats my plan already have a 302 block ready to go that I bought new rods and pistons for. You do need to use 302 rods? (correct)
Randy I'll let you know if i decide to sell the other block. Kevin
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Kevin, I would use the 302 rods, the crank has a longer throw than the 289, so use the rods to match
 
5 bolt 289

Have both motors tore down and ready to go to the machine shop to be checked out. I would per fer to just hone and use standard pistons will find out tomorrow whats up, looking for some insight that will help before I go. #1 block is the one that had the oil drains/vents enlarged and measures consistant 4.00 every which way. number 2 measures consistant 3.99. Would like any input, my caliber is not real expensive may be off some. Motor # 2 still had the original timing gears looked like new no slop in chain not sure if it was replaced. Thanks for the help Kevin
 
FYI

kbecker said:
Have both motors tore down and ready to go to the machine shop to be checked out. I would per fer to just hone and use standard pistons will find out tomorrow whats up, looking for some insight that will help before I go. #1 block is the one that had the oil drains/vents enlarged and measures consistant 4.00 every which way. number 2 measures consistant 3.99. Would like any input, my caliber is not real expensive may be off some. Motor # 2 still had the original timing gears looked like new no slop in chain not sure if it was replaced. Thanks for the help Kevin
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Unless you own the expensive bore taper mics, it's best the wire clean the piston top (or two) and search for a bore size stamping (like .030 etc). As far as the timing chain slop; even a good double roller will get some stretch in it quickly. So a tight one is either new or something ain't right. I've never seen one shrink . . . . amen
 
5 bolt 289

Thanks I've had my machine shop check bores before I'll hope for the best, both motors seemed to have the stock dished pistons didn't notice any markings, as far as timing chain it just felt good, not tight, or loose. Anyways thanks for your help, even on my so so questions. Kevin
 
Is the 302 crank & rods specific to the early 5 bolt 289? Asked a seller here in Aussie and was told they had no early cranks available.
 
steven said:
Is the 302 crank & rods specific to the early 5 bolt 289? Asked a seller here in Aussie and was told they had no early cranks available.
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Not sure what you mean steven... the 289 had a 289 crank and rods..

what we are talking about doing is using the 302 rods and crank in the 289 to take it from 4.7 to 5 liters. The reason to do this apart from gaining the capacity.. is that if you use a 289 5 bolt you dont have to change bell housing and you get the bigger displacement.
 
Sorry michael, to make myself clear, I have a origional 5 bolt 289 short motor that I was thinking to convert to the 302. I have read that using the 302 crank and possibly rods in the 289 block will suit.
If I am wrong, ok. I was assuming sellers of 302 crankshafts would know any differences. When I enquired, was told no cranks to suit early 5 bolt blocks.
 
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