Wanted Aluminum Radiator Wanted

Theorangetiger

Theorangetiger

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If anyone happens to have an extra aluminum radiator lying around, I'd be interested. I remember seeing a new Griffin for sale at a parts swap a year or so ago. I should have bought it then but had so many other priorities I passed at the time.
 
I have a used stock size from Ron Davis - probably good for a mild build but not high HP fire breathing engine ;) $225 + s/h can send you pictures. Had a pusher fan at one times and has the 4 pass thru holes in the fins that are visible from front side FYI
 
Thanks for the responses. Didn't realize Summit sold the Griffins. I will also check with Dale.

boss-tiger, I pm'd you regarding photos.
 
I have a Griffin rad like that in decent used condition. If you strike out elsewhere and are ok with paying whatever the shipping from Canada will be, let me know.
 
For what it's worth.... I am not a huge fan of alloy radiators. They can't be repaired/cleaned easily (if at all) and brass is a better conductor of heat and is very easy to repair and service. I have had my OE Tiger radiator re-cored with a dimpled tube core. I live in NE Bumf__istan and if I can get this done here, it should be able to be done anywhere. This slows down the coolant in the radiator for better cooling. If I get a leak or need the core to be repaired, it's simple... In the summer months we usually have 4-6 weeks of 100 degree plus days. My car runs in the center of the gauge, or just under... even in traffic.

The cost was about the same to have the dimpled core installed vs. an alloy core... And I am comfortable knowing that my radiator can be repaired, whereas a damaged alloy radiator will require replacement. It also looks completely original, and fits inside the original fan shroud.

Just for shits and giggles.... I have one of "Hogheads" reduced diameter water pump pullies, I have blocked my horn holes, I have a 6 blade (Maverick) fan and an oil cooler (as I have a Mk2)... I run a 160 thermostat too. My idle mixture is set a little rich and my timing (idle) is set at 10 degrees BTDC... The leaner the mixture and the more advanced the timing, the hotter you're going to run. I'm running stock cast manifolds with a 2" exhaust system... I have a standard spec water pump. The last thing you want is a high flow water pump.. The water has to stay in the radiator in order to provide maximum cooling.

I also have fit a steel version (made it myself) of an LAT hood. Before the hood, I was running about 180-190, after fitting the hood my temps rarely ever get to the center of the gauge, even when climbing mountain passes....

The problem with Tigers is not the radiators... it's that the air cannot escape from inside the engine bay.. Even the factory rally cars ran with the hood popped open at the back to let the hot air out....
 
Austin Healer said:
The problem with Tigers is not the radiators... it's that the air cannot escape from inside the engine bay.. Even the factory rally cars ran with the hood popped open at the back to let the hot air out....
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The hot air also gets stick up around the rear corners of the enginr bay.. The rally tigers while rules allowed ran fender vents high on the guard ( much higher than cobra// LAT fender vents) to get the hot air out.
 
michael-king said:
The hot air also gets stick up around the rear corners of the enginr bay.. The rally tigers while rules allowed ran fender vents high on the guard ( much higher than cobra// LAT fender vents) to get the hot air out.
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Agreed completely! It's all about trying to get the air out of the engine bay
 
Thanks for the responses and discussions. I plan on running a Derale 6 blade fan, Hoghead's pulley, Edelbrock water pump plus I modified the shroud to force the fan to pull air through the radiator, not around it. I also put louvres in the corners of the hood that I hope will be functional and not just pretty. They should accomplish the same thing as the LAT vents. I may try the horn hole block offs but will run this combination first.
This was my daily driver many years ago and I am all too familiar with popping the hood latch when that temperature needle started to climb.
I started this asking about aluminum radiators but may have been convinced otherwise. I will look into having my original recored with a dimpled version. The last time I had it recored 30+ years ago, the shop said that the tanks were showing their age and might not be able to handle another recore. I can attempt it again and see if we can pull it off one more time.

Question for Austin Healer: You run the smaller pulley but advise against a high flow water pump. I understand wanting to have the water not rush through the radiator but aren't these two things accomplishing the same thing - more water flow?
 
The now orangetiger said:
Thanks for the responses and discussions. I plan on running a Derale 6 blade fan, Hoghead's pulley, Edelbrock water pump plus I modified the shroud to force the fan to pull air through the radiator, not around it. I also put louvres in the corners of the hood that I hope will be functional and not just pretty. They should accomplish the same thing as the LAT vents. I may try the horn hole block offs but will run this combination first.
This was my daily driver many years ago and I am all too familiar with popping the hood latch when that temperature needle started to climb.
I started this asking about aluminum radiators but may have been convinced otherwise. I will look into having my original recored with a dimpled version. The last time I had it recored 30+ years ago, the shop said that the tanks were showing their age and might not be able to handle another recore. I can attempt it again and see if we can pull it off one more time.

Question for Austin Healer: You run the smaller pulley but advise against a high flow water pump. I understand wanting to have the water not rush through the radiator but aren't these two things accomplishing the same thing - more water flow?
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I can see that coolant flow would increase with a smaller pulley but air flow is also increased and that is the main thing you want and there’s the benefit of the smaller pulley
 
The now orangetiger said:
Thanks for the responses and discussions. I plan on running a Derale 6 blade fan, Hoghead's pulley, Edelbrock water pump plus I modified the shroud to force the fan to pull air through the radiator, not around it. I also put louvres in the corners of the hood that I hope will be functional and not just pretty. They should accomplish the same thing as the LAT vents. I may try the horn hole block offs but will run this combination first.
This was my daily driver many years ago and I am all too familiar with popping the hood latch when that temperature needle started to climb.
I started this asking about aluminum radiators but may have been convinced otherwise. I will look into having my original recored with a dimpled version. The last time I had it recored 30+ years ago, the shop said that the tanks were showing their age and might not be able to handle another recore. I can attempt it again and see if we can pull it off one more time.

Question for Austin Healer: You run the smaller pulley but advise against a high flow water pump. I understand wanting to have the water not rush through the radiator but aren't these two things accomplishing the same thing - more water flow?
Click to expand...
As Tony pointed out... increase in fan speed is worth it! just do not want to double up by using a hi flow water pump as well...
 
The TE/AE site has the study pertaining to cooling a Tiger that was done by Tiger Tom several years ago. The Griffin radiator was designed with the help of a Tiger owner that has been a Tiger owner since the 60's.
 
Austin Healer said:
As Tony pointed out... increase in fan speed is worth it! just do not want to double up by using a hi flow water pump as well...
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Got it thanks. For some reason I was thinking only about how the pump speed would increase - Duh. I did run the car with the smaller pulley and Derale fan and plenty of air was being moved.
 
The now orangetiger said:
Got it thanks. For some reason I was thinking only about how the pump speed would increase - Duh. I did run the car with the smaller pulley and Derale fan and plenty of air was being moved.
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The use of a low silicate pre blended 50/50 ethylene glycol based coolant would also help with cooling and protection of the engine and radiator. Low silicate coolants have a boiling point of 226F.
 
I have found an old school radiator shop here in the L.A. area that is going to recore my original with a dimpled core. There are far fewer radiator shops in general and finding one that does recores is even more difficult, probably due to the throw away nature of modern radiators with plastic tanks. The process is not cheap, close to the cost of a new Griffin from Summit Racing but I am happy about this direction. I am getting the radiator back unpainted and will paint it myself with Eastwood radiator paint which is supposed to be more efficient for heat dissipation.

I do appreciate all of the offers and suggestions on this vitally important Tiger topic.
 
The now orangetiger said:
I have found an old school radiator shop here in the L.A. area that is going to recore my original with a dimpled core. There are far fewer radiator shops in general and finding one that does recores is even more difficult, probably due to the throw away nature of modern radiators with plastic tanks. The process is not cheap, close to the cost of a new Griffin from Summit Racing but I am happy about this direction. I am getting the radiator back unpainted and will paint it myself with Eastwood radiator paint which is supposed to be more efficient for heat dissipation.

I do appreciate all of the offers and suggestions on this vitally important Tiger topic.
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Agreed about the cost. It was roughly $650 to have the same thing done to my radiator here. But if something goes wrong, I can get it repaired!
 
The now orangetiger said:
I have found an old school radiator shop here in the L.A. area that is going to recore my original with a dimpled core. There are far fewer radiator shops in general and finding one that does recores is even more difficult, probably due to the throw away nature of modern radiators with plastic tanks. The process is not cheap, close to the cost of a new Griffin from Summit Racing but I am happy about this direction. I am getting the radiator back unpainted and will paint it myself with Eastwood radiator paint which is supposed to be more efficient for heat dissipation.

I do appreciate all of the offers and suggestions on this vitally important Tiger topic.
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I do hope that the radiator shop does a great job of recoring your original radiator. When the work is done, many others might like to learn of the radiator shop, so please let us know how it turns out.
 
Look for a shop that repairs radiators for heavy duty trucks. Around here they also repair automotive units as well as oil coolers, etc.
 
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