Another Wiring Harness Question Alt Conversion

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Ohio Tiger

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If I wanted to convert my 1a to an alternator and move the fuel pump into the trunk, would I order the harness for the Mark 2? Thanks guys.

Bill in Toledo
 
Conversions

Ohio Tiger said:
If I wanted to convert my 1a to an alternator and move the fuel pump into the trunk, would I order the harness for the Mark 2? Thanks guys.

Bill in Toledo
Click to expand...

Brit wire makes a front conversion harness if you ask for it . . . . .(no affil)
 
I am in the process of installing a Holley 125 fuel pump in my trunk. It is isolated from the trunk wall with ignition box type isolator "bobbins".

For the electrical, I will be just running a length of wire from the existing fuel pump wire connector that terminates at the SU pump into the trunk. It will go through the existing hole and grommet in the trunk where the dry air hose for the SU pump now passes through into the trunk. (That hose will come out of course.) That electrical power will trigger a relay also located in the trunk that will power the pump from a wire that connects directly to the positive terminal of the battery hold down bolt. All wires appropriately secured.

No need for a new harness.

Gene
 
cadreamn67 said:
I am in the process of installing a Holley 125 fuel pump in my trunk. It is isolated from the trunk wall with ignition box type isolator "bobbins".

For the electrical, I will be just running a length of wire from the existing fuel pump wire connector that terminates at the SU pump into the trunk. It will go through the existing hole and grommet in the trunk where the dry air hose for the SU pump now passes through into the trunk. (That hose will come out of course.) That electrical power will trigger a relay also located in the trunk that will power the pump from a wire that connects directly to the positive terminal of the battery hold down bolt. All wires appropriately secured.

No need for a new harness.

Gene
Click to expand...

Exactly how I (and a few others on here) did my new edelbrock pump... simple to do and the added bonus is taking a little load off the ignition circuit :cool:

Jim
B38200446
 
Uhhhhhhhhhh - what Gene said.

Moving the fuel pump to the trunk does not need a Mk II harness as it is just one wire that needs to be extended by about 2'. What you will need to do is put in a relay and power the pump directly from the battery as the original wire is subject to surges when using anything in the electrical system. Turn on your turn signal and listen to the pump serge with the blinkers.

Here is what I did, I also added a switch on the mounting bracket to turn the pump off when needed for maintenance. It also has a fuse for safety. My rig may seem like overkill but it is feeding a 454 HP engine and is currently at about its limit. I have a (electric) fuel pressure gauge in the glove box that I can monitor and under full throttle, I am getting a slight drop of pressure at the carb. That is with 3/8 aluminum fuel line too.

003-7.jpg
 
Drop in pressure

I hope you have a co-pilot monitor that gauge in the glove compartment. :eek:
 
Ohio Tiger said:
If I wanted to convert my 1a to an alternator and move the fuel pump into the trunk, would I order the harness for the Mark 2? Thanks guys.

Bill in Toledo
Click to expand...
Saw your post regarding wiring harness. Unless you are adamant about retaining the outdated 2 circuit original wiring, you may want to consider upgrading to one of my 12 circuit kits. With it you can have appropriate circuitry for electric fuel pump and other non-stock add-ons like AC, radio, etc. I have sold nearly 70 units in the past 18 months. They will work on all Tigers, Alpines, and Rapiers. I have them installed in my '66 Tiger MK1A, my 67 Alpine and a 66 Alpine with a V6 conversion. You can see more info by visiting my website at www.petesperformancewiring.com. Feel free to email or call with any questions.
Thanks. Pete. SouthDakotaTiger on this forum. 605 770 7788. Palmjeld@yahoo.com
 
For the electric, I would really suggest you to be running a length of cable from the current fuel push cable plug that ends at the SU push into the back area. It will go through the current hole and grommet in the back area where the dry air hose for the SU push now passes through into the back area. (That hose will come out of course.) That electric energy will trigger a communicate also located in the back area that will energy the push from a cable that joins directly to the positive airport terminal of the battery hold down secure. All cables properly secured. . . . . . . .
 
Davidpal said:
For the electric, I would really suggest you to be running a length of cable from the current fuel push cable plug that ends at the SU push into the back area. It will go through the current hole and grommet in the back area where the dry air hose for the SU push now passes through into the back area. (That hose will come out of course.) That electric energy will trigger a communicate also located in the back area that will energy the push from a cable that joins directly to the positive airport terminal of the battery hold down secure. All cables properly secured. . . . . . . .
Click to expand...

What was that DUH?
 
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