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Headlight took a rock so will be shoping for new headlights. Have stock wiring and hoping someone has info re. what is good and available these days - thanks
Any recomendations for headlamps these days
- Thread starter boss-tiger
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It would be good to shine a flashlight up in the fender and make sure your headlight wiring does not have cracks or tears in the insulation. Most new headlights take no more power than the originals, while providing much more light and with better beam pattern.
What you use is going to depend somewhat on what you want it to look like. I have some pretty old, at this point, Hella H4 seal-beam replacements, that are still incandescent so it looks old-school. https://myhellalights.com/product/v...ibute_pa_shape=round&attribute_pa_unit=single
But you can also get LED replacements with features like daytime running halo lights, in different color temperatures. The Holley Retrobright is pretty stock-appearing while throwing a lot more light with less power consumption. But they are a bit pricey. https://www.holley.com/products/ele...th7WGOzu-vcrynfMahIp9ojAd-cKB7FUaAqvmEALw_wcB
What you use is going to depend somewhat on what you want it to look like. I have some pretty old, at this point, Hella H4 seal-beam replacements, that are still incandescent so it looks old-school. https://myhellalights.com/product/v...ibute_pa_shape=round&attribute_pa_unit=single
But you can also get LED replacements with features like daytime running halo lights, in different color temperatures. The Holley Retrobright is pretty stock-appearing while throwing a lot more light with less power consumption. But they are a bit pricey. https://www.holley.com/products/ele...th7WGOzu-vcrynfMahIp9ojAd-cKB7FUaAqvmEALw_wcB
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Firstly I would suggest adding a relay to the headlight wiring if you up the wattage...
Secondly I would suggest going to more powerful headlights, but try and keep a period looking domed glass lamp.. its amazing how much at glass or LED lamps stand out on our cars.
The halogen sealed lamps are a good step up over the originals...but check the glass profile.. they came into popularity in the 70s and tend to be a much flatter glass.
You can add higher powered halogen globes to period style bulb replaceable Lucas 7" lamps.. period look and better lighting.. again.. add a relay
Moss and a few others offer Lucas tripod style lamps with halogen globes.
Then there is always buying an NOS or decent Lucas set off eBay.
Secondly I would suggest going to more powerful headlights, but try and keep a period looking domed glass lamp.. its amazing how much at glass or LED lamps stand out on our cars.
The halogen sealed lamps are a good step up over the originals...but check the glass profile.. they came into popularity in the 70s and tend to be a much flatter glass.
You can add higher powered halogen globes to period style bulb replaceable Lucas 7" lamps.. period look and better lighting.. again.. add a relay
Moss and a few others offer Lucas tripod style lamps with halogen globes.
Then there is always buying an NOS or decent Lucas set off eBay.
Austin Healer
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You can run Lucas (non sealed beams) or Lucas PL's... Both will accept halogen bulbs and retain an authentic appearance. The new H4 units have a flat face, and IMHO, look completely wrong. If you keep a limit of 60 watts on the high beams you won't need a relay, but you might want to consider changing to an alternator on a Mk1/Mk1a. I have Lucas LR6 driving lamps with 100 watt bulbs, so I do run a relay (Lucas 6RA) and I have uprated the alternator on my MK2 to a 90 amp unit... I'm just running normal sealed beams for main and low beams. I hardly ever drive the car at night!
The wiring for the relay is simple. Terminal C1 would be the terminal for the driving lights and a tell tale (dash indicator), C2 would be connected to the blue/red wire from the high beam switch. As it's against the law in the US to use driving lights with high beams the trigger to C2 MUST be the blue/red low beam feed. W2 would be the ground trigger. This would connect to a dash switch that is routed to ground. That way the switch does not carry the amp draw, only the relay. W1 would be connected to the fuse box on either the purple or the green wire set (fused side).
The wiring for the relay is simple. Terminal C1 would be the terminal for the driving lights and a tell tale (dash indicator), C2 would be connected to the blue/red wire from the high beam switch. As it's against the law in the US to use driving lights with high beams the trigger to C2 MUST be the blue/red low beam feed. W2 would be the ground trigger. This would connect to a dash switch that is routed to ground. That way the switch does not carry the amp draw, only the relay. W1 would be connected to the fuse box on either the purple or the green wire set (fused side).
Austin Healer
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By wiring the driving/fog lamps as described above they will only work when the low beams are on. as soon as the high beams are selected, the power to the C2 terminal goes away, automatically turning the driving/fog lights off.
if you live in an area that allows driving lamps and high beams to be engaged at the same time, use the blue wire from the dimmer switch to the C2 terminal on the relay.
if you live in an area that allows driving lamps and high beams to be engaged at the same time, use the blue wire from the dimmer switch to the C2 terminal on the relay.
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thanks, probably going to go with brighter Halogen, turned up a pr of used CIBIE lights, believe they are Halogen and will research what watt they are.