Charging system troubleshooting

mr55s

mr55s

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
347
I recently went for a nice after dinner drive, the car was hard to start but eventually did. The battery seemed to labour in cranking the engine. With the car started off we went. It stalled twice and re started with the same odd low battery symptoms, (this is a new battery). We took it for a run out the Hwy to give it a good run, about 30 minutes each way. We were driving along and then nothing, the engine quit, I coasted to the side of the Hwy and tried to restart again, nothing happened. I then checked the terminals on the battery to see if they were tight, they were, but unusually warm to the touch. I had to wait an hour for the truck to arrive, so I periodically tried to start it, the longer I waited, the more it would crank but not really good, then it would fade away again. The ramp truck to took us back home and asked the tow truck driver about my symptoms that led up to this. He said the same thing I researched later, the alternator seemed like the culprit. I put a brand new alternator in that I had purchased that had never been on a car. The car started just fine, idled well and drove with out stalling. On Sunday we were out for another drive and it was difficult to start once more. There is a brand new voltage regulator on the car with a freshly rebuilt starter, brand new starter solenoid, and once again a new battery and alternator (the one previous was tested and performed flawlessly). I am at a loss as to what to look for or how to test other components to rule them out, or to suspect them to replace. Any help to enjoy the sun on a summers day or evening would be gratefully appreciated.
Brian
 
Brian,

I was going to suggest regulator but doesnt seem to be tge right symptoms , does alternator have an internal regulator?

Do you have a balast resistor on the car?

Its unlikely to be something drawing current or hot wired on as you are losing power when driving and assume the alternator would hold that ... The alternator might be charging but sounds like something is preventing it making it to the battery.

Also when you start the car does the ignition light come on? Once the car is running does the light turn off or stay glowing? Do you have a ammeter or voltmeter?
 
The regulator is external from the alternator, a stock configuration for a Mkll. I have the correct ballast resistor, it's not new but not anymore than a couple thousand miles on it. :(
Brian
 
Hi Michael, the ignition light goes out when started, the ammeter I have is currently not hooked up, I am planning to change it to a volt meter I have.
Brian
 
A few questions... What happens when you disconnect the negative cable to the battery after the car is started?

Other suggestions to troubleshoot... Measure voltage before starting, during starting (while cranking) and when running.

Cheers, -Kevin
 
How about

Have you checked the -ve lead from the battery to the body? Does it get hot. There may be a high resistance where the lead from the battery to the body has corrosion.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Bad Starter

Ford starters normally do not totally fail all at once..

Symptoms I have experienced for a failing starter are:

Starts OK on a cold start.

Go someplace and park it? The starter labors and may not crank fast enough to start.

Rick
 
I have checked the battery for voltage and measures 13 volts when the engine is not running, the same volts was also measured at the starter solenoid to eliminate a drop in the cable. The alternator has been checked on a machine and is running perfect. Today I am going to check the starter, which had been freshly rebuilt but is being narrowed down as the prime suspect. I will let you know of the findings. Even though a it has been rebuilt, it could be a bad armature etc.
Looking forward to giving it a load test. Stay tuned....
Brian
 
Charging System Troubleshooting

Hey Brian;
You've been given some great troubleshooting ideas for the starter problem but your original post noted engine stalling and eventually dying while you were underway. I'm thinking that unless there is a ground fault through the starter that is somehow affecting your ignition system, the problem may be elsewhere. Was a complete re-wire included in your recent resto? Have you had a good look at your coil/igniter and the wiring related specifically to that system?
Cheers! Mike
 
I took the car down to a guy I know who sells batteries, he tested the battery, tested each cell then a load test, it was good, and then checked the starter to see how much it would draw. The starter draws too much power, either it has a bad spot, or the windings are an issue. Also replace the resistor over by the fuse block if I could. I have one. Perhaps that's why it stalled at speed?
Brian
 
Whenever I get a new (old) car I bring it down to the local Autolectric shop and have them rebuild the generator and starter. Seems like cheap insurance to me as they cost less than $100 a piece. The starters always spin over faster after the rebuild.
 
Electrical system

After much head scratching and lots of good input from good people, my electrical issues were multiple. There was an extensive restoration on this car, and while everything did work at one time, I had strange things going on. The starter which was rebuilt by a reputable company was thought to be problematic, Bng and was. Although rebuilt, the bearing at the end of the bendix shaft was done. This allowed the armature to not be parallel, it started the car, but wouldn't when the engine was hot. Upon further inspection, all other important rebuildable features of the starter were, and in "new" condition. You don't usually question a fresh component rebuild by people who do it for a living. Keep this in mind and never rule out like I did at the beginning. Thank you Rick :)(Tiger Blue). My ground strap was a concern, and upon checking, the bolts were tight as you would want them. However, on one end of the ground strap the rolled crimped end was wiggly and loose:O. I took it off and found that it was also "crunchy" when you bent it back and forth. Replaced with new strap. I also found the starter solenoid lead at the solenoid was loose and was tightened. At this point I changed my attention to the top side of the engine. Next on my list was the 15 ohm ceramic (Mkll) resistor which was checked and needed to be retired from service with the aid of a hammer.( Not sure if this was an issue with me stalling at speed on the highway or not). After the new resistor was in, the soft top was lowered and a cool summers drive was enjoyed with no excitement. So I guess if you find yourself dropping the F-bomb looking for a problem and using lots of sentence enhancers for that one troubling issue you think it is, it is always important to make a list, use the knowledge base we have here, and start ruling things out, just because it has been rebuilt or new, doesn't make it so, and can be a few things that have gone south instead of one. Thanks to everyone for there input. Special thanks go to Jim G.:). Fingers crossed for the next outing:D
Brian
 
Ballast Resistor

If you have an Electronic pick-up (Aftermarket or Modified) distributor then bypass your ballast resistor. I have seen this be the problem many times.
 
Ballast resistor

I have a nicely rebuilt Ford dual point distributor. It's good to know about the bypass for after market though, Thanks!
Brian
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top