Convertible Top Frame Rivets

[Theorangetiger]

When refurbishing a convertible top frame, has anyone drilled out the rivets and redone them or is it best to leave everything together and do it as best as possible like that?

I am doing a nut & bolt restoration but that doesn't mean rivets too, right? My frame is not in bad shape, with minimal corrosion so I'm thinking I can leave it together and prep it as well as I can with wire brushes, Scotchbrite pads, sandpaper etc. and then paint.
I have access to a blast cabinet and have made very good use of it and the parts end up looking like new but I'm thinking of taking a slight shortcut here.

Thoughts?

 

[0neoffive]

When refurbishing a convertible top frame, has anyone drilled out the rivets and redone them or is it best to leave everything together and do it as best as possible like that?

I am doing a nut & bolt restoration but that doesn't mean rivets too, right? My frame is not in bad shape, with minimal corrosion so I'm thinking I can leave it together and prep it as well as I can with wire brushes, Scotchbrite pads, sandpaper etc. and then paint.
I have access to a blast cabinet and have made very good use of it and the parts end up looking like new but I'm thinking of taking a slight shortcut here.

Thoughts?

Which rivets? The tension strap ? The Velcro strips? Or the all important front rag top strip that keeps it from blowing off?

 

[Theorangetiger]

I should have been more specific. I was considering the ones shown in the photo.
#1 More of a pin that's peened over on both ends. It's where the top rail pivots for storage. That one wouldn't be too difficult.
#2 Allows one of the bows to pivot, looks challenging.
#3 The pair of small round head rivets that hold the detent on, probably the least important and not worth the effort, although they might have to be removed to allow removal of #2 .

Also, is there any reason to save the cables, does anyone make a top that utilizes them?

Thanks

 

[michael-king]

There are still people that so tops for the cables, if you get rid of them you will HAVE to add the velfro strips to the frame so that the top doesnt lift above the side windows.

The cable, while a faff sometimes.. Do work well if set correctly

I should have been more specific. I was considering the ones shown in the photo.
#1 More of a pin that's peened over on both ends. It's where the top rail pivots for storage. That one wouldn't be too difficult.
#2 Allows one of the bows to pivot, looks challenging.
#3 The pair of small round head rivets that hold the detent on, probably the least important and not worth the effort, although they might have to be removed to allow removal of #2 .

Also, is there any reason to save the cables, does anyone make a top that utilizes them?

Thanks

View attachment 15193

 

[0neoffive]

I should have been more specific. I was considering the ones shown in the photo.
#1 More of a pin that's peened over on both ends. It's where the top rail pivots for storage. That one wouldn't be too difficult.
#2 Allows one of the bows to pivot, looks challenging.
#3 The pair of small round head rivets that hold the detent on, probably the least important and not worth the effort, although they might have to be removed to allow removal of #2 .

Also, is there any reason to save the cables, does anyone make a top that utilizes them?

Thanks

View attachment 15193

I always leave those rivets alone. Bead blast around them and paint with Sunbeam Grey. Those cables have a specific soft top use, BUT, you could simply add the Velcro strips and stay with more available sewn tops. Just sayin'

 

[Theorangetiger]

Thanks. That's what I ended up doing and it came out just fine. I'll likely go with a velcro type top and if I do that can the cables remain and just kind of tuck out of the way? I'd prefer not to cut them off if I don't have to. Also, I won't be using the soft top much at all, it'll really just be there for show.