Media Blast in NorCal
Since we're full disclosure...
I DO believe that these services judge the marque, or often 'the mark' as the case may be
, in order to quote.
My phone estimate came after the business manager asked, "is that a
real Tiger?".
The economist in me thinks: sq footage (size of vehicle) x amount of work to be performed by that area = price. The realist knows that; size doesn't matter as much, complexity does, but perhaps perceived value to buyer the most.
I can understand a sliding scale, and if the project were a $2M Ferrari, I would expect a higher price...but would also expect kid gloves and a most thoughtful service. Of course, we often don't get that perceived value...
My car was $3000 for mixed media in Sacto. It seems like a lot. Especially since the friend that referred me to them is a body shop guru and had his personal panel van (late 50's Chevy) taken there. I know he paid nearly half what I paid. Yes, he had his done a few years (3-ish) prior.
His job was not larger, less complex, or less involved.
BUT, I was comfortable with the shop, with a long history, positive word of mouth and in the end any misgivings were more due to my lack of communication with them v. any 'mistakes' they may have made.
The $3000 included:
- Plastic / other soft minerals wash to remove base paint and primer.
- Rough out of problem rust areas with mineral; the first step won't remove, but rather will expose rust.
- Metal jet (Zn) over small pitting to remove rust holes; hardtop touch points, driver's floor, minor lower sill.
- Hand sand to remove excess metal.
- Headers blasted and other misc bits.
- Full epoxy primer of everything, including stuff I didn't want (hood latch).
I am just starting the re-assemble phase and as stated by many, 'sand' is everywhere. One key issue I found yesterday is that because they left the tunnel insulation in place, the media spread under and will continue to emerge. But, I took the lower part off, reluctantly, yesterday and will be dynamat-ing it. Therefore, I'm pretty confident most media will be removed. the concern is spots where it will lay in wait and then absorb moisture. Inside sills, pillars, etc. Makes sense to me, but I'm hoping the epoxy spray also reached some of those areas and sealed them. I can see evidence in some locations.
I was aware of Dry Ice, but heard two 'negatives'. First, it isn't dry. Therefore, moisture contacts purely exposed metal, and the claim is oxidation / rust will begin almost immediately. I'm not too too sure of this claim... The other is less of a negative, I think... This preparation may not provide the most preferred toothy surface for over primer adhesion. Again, this one is also heresay and may be less relative depending on owners preparation plans (sanding). Sorry, I can't claim either one to be factual, just what the competitors spout out. I like the way dry ice seems less harsh, at least with regards to removal. But may take more body hand work than the media method I used. If done 'right' it all comes from somewhere.
