Front Tonneau Soft Top Peg

A

Agent 861

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Ok guys How do I get to the bottom of the front peg . It’s threaded and the securing nut has vibrated off . Although the peg looks ok it’s just sitting there
IMG_2213.jpeg
 
I am pretty sure that mine have a coarse tapered thread kind of like a sheet metal screw and does not have a nut Maybe yours is the same but the sheet metal hole has stripped out. I would try and see if you can tighten it. If not maybe you can get to the thread by taking the interior trim panel off
Good luck
 
Remove the side upholstery panel and you'll find an opening that will give you access to the stud.
 
I believe that stud is a metal screw and does not have a nut. Check out the Rootes Sunbeam Alpine Parts List. (I am looking at the Rootes Archieve Trust reprint of Publication Number 6600992, 1966.) On page YX30, about 1/4 of the way down the page, you will see two lines whih read:
G378 9128011 Stud-Hood to body side 2
G379 9128012 Stud-Hood to body rear 2

Parts List.jpg


The "G" refers to Plate G - SECTION YX. Stud 378 (side stud) is shown on the top line and you can see the bottom of it is NOT threaded to receive a nut, but to screw INTO sheet metal. Stud 379 (rear stud) is shown on the bottom row. Again, you can see the bottom of it is NOT threaded to receive a nut, but to screw INTO sheet metal. So you don't have to worry about getting to the underside of the stud nor the sheet metal - unless some previous owner put in a stud requiring a nut.

Plate G.jpg


Good luck!
David
 
HolyCat said:
I believe that stud is a metal screw and does not have a nut. Check out the Rootes Sunbeam Alpine Parts List. (I am looking at the Rootes Archieve Trust reprint of Publication Number 6600992, 1966.) On page YX30, about 1/4 of the way down the page, you will see two lines whih read:
G378 9128011 Stud-Hood to body side 2
G379 9128012 Stud-Hood to body rear 2

View attachment 19794

The "G" refers to Plate G - SECTION YX. Stud 378 (side stud) is shown on the top line and you can see the bottom of it is NOT threaded to receive a nut, but to screw INTO sheet metal. Stud 379 (rear stud) is shown on the bottom row. Again, you can see the bottom of it is NOT threaded to receive a nut, but to screw INTO sheet metal. So you don't have to worry about getting to the underside of the stud nor the sheet metal - unless some previous owner put in a stud requiring a nut.

View attachment 19795

Good luck!
David
Click to expand...
Yup as I thought. It’s how mine is
 
Maybe it should be a screw in peg ( it is on my Alpine ) -but mine definitely is a threaded stud and this evening I fabricated a new 10/32 nut for it. Just looking at the size of the hole that the stud goes into I suspect that that it will be two big to take a screw in peg but will try the Alpine peg tomorrow,Certainly would be easier than taking the trim off and attaching a tiny nut out of sight in a narrow space with my gigantic hands
 
If the hole in the body is wallered out from movement of the screw in stud then it probably will not take much effort to use the bolt on stud. I use a 1/4 in rachet with a short extension and the proper socket that fits the nut for the stud, stuff it with a kleenex or other nose tissue or blue tape until the nut is even with the top of the socket, insert it thru the body opening and once you see it under the body opening then start the stud with the fiber washer into the nut. Tighten with the rachet and forget about it. This is a little fix that I learned from Doug Jennings.
 
Agent 861 said:
Ok guys How do I get to the bottom of the front peg . It’s threaded and the securing nut has vibrated off . Although the peg looks ok it’s just sitting there View attachment 19792
Click to expand...
originally these were just screw thread (sheet metal screw) with no nut. after 50 years of pulling the top or tonneau cover over them they get loose and wobble. They are also offered in machine thread (#10-32) and I have started fitting them. access to the inside of the cavity can be achieved by removing the upholstered panel (casing). the nut will either be a small pattern #10 nut which is 5/16 AF or a 3/8 AF which is a standard #10 nut. I use either a nut driver, or a 1/4 drive socket, 2" extender and a ratchet...
 
I would also like to suggest that a drop of the non-hardening Locktite be applied to the threads, to help prevent the nut from vibrating loose.
 
I had a couple that were loose and I went for the threaded style (10-24?) and managed to get a nut in them with great dexterity. Lol. Later on I had to take them out to paint the car so opted to put in aluminum ‘riv-nuts’ (nut-serts) as I already had a supply of those. Never had an issue after that. It shows a bit but is hidden anyways about 99.9% of the time

IMG_4704.jpeg
 
Agent 861 said:
Ok guys How do I get to the bottom of the front peg . It’s threaded and the securing nut has vibrated off . Although the peg looks ok it’s just sitting there View attachment 19792
Click to expand...
If it is a metal screw type stud that has stripped out, you can replace it with an 8-32 type stud and access behind the interior fabric panel to install the nut & lock washer. A more elaborate install would be to replace it all from the top with a drilled in 8-32 riv-nut.
 
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