My gas tank has the black flaking crud, and I'm going to have to clean them out. I saw the notes on doing this with pea gravel and/or sand, and then coating them in a DuPont product. How does anyone know this new product is any better than the older one, and not going to do the same thing in a decade or 2, or 3? Are there other/better options now?
Gas tank refurbishing
- Thread starter Utah66
- Start date
- Messages
- 2,968
Step 1,2,3,etc.
Most hardware stores have a mild acid solution (gal jug) that you can slosh around inside a capped tank and rinse out with water. Save the acid for tank #2 and cross pipe. Masonry suppliers have a more aggressive product if you feel macho. I use a paint strip gun (hair drier) stuck in the tanks to heat/dry them. Make darned sure they are dry. The same people who make POR 15 make a marine grade "U.S. Standard Fuel Tank Sealer" . Follow the cautions and the tanks will be fine for a lifetime. 1 Qt is enough. Not as good as WW II Jerry can liner but close enough. Enjoy!
Most hardware stores have a mild acid solution (gal jug) that you can slosh around inside a capped tank and rinse out with water. Save the acid for tank #2 and cross pipe. Masonry suppliers have a more aggressive product if you feel macho. I use a paint strip gun (hair drier) stuck in the tanks to heat/dry them. Make darned sure they are dry. The same people who make POR 15 make a marine grade "U.S. Standard Fuel Tank Sealer" . Follow the cautions and the tanks will be fine for a lifetime. 1 Qt is enough. Not as good as WW II Jerry can liner but close enough. Enjoy!
Tiger tamer
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 318
I used POR15 fuel tank sealer. You get a kit with marine clean which removes any varnish from the tank and metal ready which puts a special coating on the metal ready for the sealer.
That black crud is probably the original factory sealer which needs to be removed first. I didn't know it was there untill I used the metal ready which removed about 1/2 of it. I took the tanks in to be dipped in caustic to clean them out properly, then sealed them.
That black crud is probably the original factory sealer which needs to be removed first. I didn't know it was there untill I used the metal ready which removed about 1/2 of it. I took the tanks in to be dipped in caustic to clean them out properly, then sealed them.
Warren
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 3,872
Really Rusty?
Funny but every motorcycle collector views a Kreme ,POR15, or other epoxy coated tank as a negative on a bike. Sooner or later most of them come flaking off. I have uses Citric acid, phosphoric acid, aka Oshpho" from Home Depot Evaporust and others. Of all the de rust products Evaporust works the best but is getting pricey.
If the coating is a previous home brewed epoxy or factory coating a flushing with acetone or other MEK removes everything.
Google motorcycle gas tank cleaning battery charger or look at the hardtop restoration posting of mine for a link.
It is amazing you can even zinc coat a tank using the same process.
I used the epoxy 1 time it is nasty takes a lot of time to do right and even inside the tank and at the end of the day covers rust as a temp fix.
Funny but every motorcycle collector views a Kreme ,POR15, or other epoxy coated tank as a negative on a bike. Sooner or later most of them come flaking off. I have uses Citric acid, phosphoric acid, aka Oshpho" from Home Depot Evaporust and others. Of all the de rust products Evaporust works the best but is getting pricey.
If the coating is a previous home brewed epoxy or factory coating a flushing with acetone or other MEK removes everything.
Google motorcycle gas tank cleaning battery charger or look at the hardtop restoration posting of mine for a link.
It is amazing you can even zinc coat a tank using the same process.
I used the epoxy 1 time it is nasty takes a lot of time to do right and even inside the tank and at the end of the day covers rust as a temp fix.
When my car was completely apart for the restoration, a buddy of mine who grew up helping his dad restore airplanes, insisted I have the gas tanks on my Tiger zinc-coated after they were completely stripped.
That was about 22 years ago and, so far, so good.
That was about 22 years ago and, so far, so good.
Last edited:
- Messages
- 868
I started to have this problem in the early 90's. It wasn't bad enough to block the pick up or starve the engine of fuel, it just kept filling up the fuel filter with black flakes. Those clear plastic fuel filters were about 2 or 3 bucks, so I just watched them until they got dark in color and changed them out- always had a couple in the trunk for spares. After I went through a few filters (waiting for me to have the time to do the tanks), the flakes took longer and longer to collect in the filter. I was still working 6 days a week at the time, so I decided to just wait it out and see if the trend continued. I haven't had any black flakes for years. Now, I change the filter every couple of years just on princple; when I cut them open they're clean! So, it is possible to wait this out if it's not affecting fuel delivery or performance. I suspect mine was due to a formulation change in the gasoline. I know my method goes against conventional wisdom on this problem, but time constraints didn't allow for anything else. Just sayin'...
I've restored several old Jaguar XJ's with dual tanks and they ALL rust. I've used kits from Eastwood, which worked fine, but what a PITA. At the end of the day, it was way more work to save a few bucks as compared to sending the tanks to these guys. Lifetime guarantee and I've been very pleased. Just another option.
http://gastankrenu.com/
- Messages
- 2,968
Ain't it fun
Just one of the joys of being a steward of ancient iron. . . . .
Thanks everyone for the responses. Interesting. Full spectrum from acid wash & zinc coating to just keep changing filters & it will eventually end just fine. I appreciate the different points of view. I'm hopeful but as confused as ever.
Just one of the joys of being a steward of ancient iron. . . . .
66TigerMK1A
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 1,155
I recently removed my tank,crossover pipes etc. and plan to do something with them before I re-install them. The crossover tubes have some kind of thin black coating on them ( paint? ) and where it's starting to bubble, I've managed to dislodge several large flakes... the gas tanks appear to be bare steel inside with just a hint of rust marks. I picked up my rad last week after having it redone at the local shop and see that they also do gas tanks. They use a product called 'Red Kote?' and I'm wondering if anyone has had experience with that product?? They quoted me a price of $200 to do both my tanks and pipes and I wonder if it's worth the trouble for me to buy a 'kit' and do it myself or just cut a check and be done with it??
Jim
B382000446
Jim
B382000446
Gas Tank Refurb.
In the past two years I have done both of my cars. the Mark IA I have had for 39 years was done 25 years ago with tank coating from "Bill Hirsch" in NJ (see Hemmings). Apparently that coating does not stand up so well to the ethanol in gas today so they have changed the formulation. I redid the tanks about two years ago and results have been good. Like others have said - fill up tanks with small rocks and knock all the loose stuff out, then coat and let dry per instructions.
The whole thing is very painful, but do-able even by a blacksmith like me...
In the past two years I have done both of my cars. the Mark IA I have had for 39 years was done 25 years ago with tank coating from "Bill Hirsch" in NJ (see Hemmings). Apparently that coating does not stand up so well to the ethanol in gas today so they have changed the formulation. I redid the tanks about two years ago and results have been good. Like others have said - fill up tanks with small rocks and knock all the loose stuff out, then coat and let dry per instructions.
The whole thing is very painful, but do-able even by a blacksmith like me...
Warren
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 3,872
Really
Lots of message boards have postings about cleaning gas tanks especially motorcycle ones.
Having done so many I have forgotten, all those coatings are just band aid fixes period.
They remove good metal and bad rust but hardly ever get it all.
They are expensive to boot . It is also easy to reverse the electrolisys and zinc the inside of the tank. I have never done the change polarity to coat the inside of the tank with zinc as the washing soda method with battery charger has worked so good on tanks it was hard to believe.
Lots of message boards have postings about cleaning gas tanks especially motorcycle ones.
Having done so many I have forgotten, all those coatings are just band aid fixes period.
They remove good metal and bad rust but hardly ever get it all.
They are expensive to boot . It is also easy to reverse the electrolisys and zinc the inside of the tank. I have never done the change polarity to coat the inside of the tank with zinc as the washing soda method with battery charger has worked so good on tanks it was hard to believe.
I totally agree with the electrolis method. Find a good big tank with metal on the outside. Fill the tank with water and washing soda, insert the item to be cleaned, make sure the -ve to the item and the + to the surround metal. Use a 3-4amp battery charger or other 12V supply. Leave it for a day or two and wait till the fine bubbles stop. Then take the item out, wash and scrub the item with fresh water. Then coat the new metal with your selected paint.
Warren
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 3,872
Week
I have had em so bad they have been on charger for days even a week .
It is also suggested to change anode frequently or clean and strain out water solution.
They say the mixed can be used many times but at pennies a gallon and being able to pour down drain .... Well all but the heavy chunks
I have had em so bad they have been on charger for days even a week .
It is also suggested to change anode frequently or clean and strain out water solution.
They say the mixed can be used many times but at pennies a gallon and being able to pour down drain .... Well all but the heavy chunks
My anode is 4 x 2" reo bars connected to each other with 1/2" reo bar. Will last a very long time before needing replacing. Same with the soda/water, it gets a bit grungy especially if you drop a small bolt into it, but it still does the job. Almost all the small items on my rebuild have had the treatment, it actually replaces corroded iron with new iron.
66TigerMK1A
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 1,155
Well.. I got the 'soda' from the grocery store today... and have an old bottom half of a 45 gallon plastic drum for a container so should be good to give it a try... been reading a lot of info on the other forums also... thanks for what was posted here...
Jim
B382000446
Jim
B382000446
Apologies for dragging this thread up from the past but I’ve got my fuel tanks out at the moment and am considering the best/most cost effective way ahead.
Just to clarify, if the factory applied lining is removed (and I think I’ve collected most of it in my fuel filter…) will the tanks leak? Or is there just a higher chance of the tanks leaking?
As you’ve probably gathered I’m considering getting the tanks cleaned, painting only the external surfaces and then refitting.
Thanks.
Just to clarify, if the factory applied lining is removed (and I think I’ve collected most of it in my fuel filter…) will the tanks leak? Or is there just a higher chance of the tanks leaking?
As you’ve probably gathered I’m considering getting the tanks cleaned, painting only the external surfaces and then refitting.
Thanks.
Last edited:
- Messages
- 2,968
Step One ana two ana three
Any quality marine grade tank liner kit will get the job done and give you peace of mind. I have my radiator shop guys boil them out and rinse them/dry them. Then we do the paint or powder coat routine before following the instructions on the kit. Don't forget the cross pipes. Works great and doesn't invade the filter . . . .
Any quality marine grade tank liner kit will get the job done and give you peace of mind. I have my radiator shop guys boil them out and rinse them/dry them. Then we do the paint or powder coat routine before following the instructions on the kit. Don't forget the cross pipes. Works great and doesn't invade the filter . . . .