Is it normal for gas tank

oh good help on the next issue.
actually I have new stainless steel brake hoses with newly drained and replaced fluid and it's the right rear wheel that locked upand got hot (actually it was smoking once about a week ago...but then it was fine) I was able to put it in reverse and free it up and then make it home. I expect it's a piston or return spring that got hung up. Any thoughts?
 
OK Now Brakes

I have experienced this twice for different reasons.

1. Stuck or sticking booster piston. Fresh rebuild! Vacuum piston moves but does not return. Brake pressure continues to be applied to all wheels.

2. More likely from your symptoms. Carbotech ? rear shoes which expand with heat and if adjusted to zero clearance on the drums will drag when heated. Dragging creates more heat/more drag heat and HOT smoking (even locked) rear brakes. I get great service from the Carbotech shoes. Long life even running open track events.

Rick
 
So I have decided to take the rear (right) drum off to investigate. I am hoping that it might be something simple like a bad return spring. Are parts readily available from local parts stores or are they specialty items that must be ordered and shipped? Do we share brake parts with other cars that can be cross referenced?
 
Rear brakes

Get the right parts from Sunbeam Specialties, verses trying to cross reference something that might work. Support Rick, he supports the Marque!
 
Rick has been very helpful and I do believe in supporting specialty suppliers (of which he been one of the best). My question was really in case I was in the middle of a fix and just needed a small part.....
 
michael-king said:
As for th etank, the only vent is the rubber one that runs between the tanks up the top around the boot.. that would not stop it filling. Have you tapped on the oposite tank to hear how much fuel is in it?
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Now that the gauge works, it seems my tank is getting filled after all:rolleyes:
 
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I may have been too quick on that last post stating that my gauge now works....what I didn't notice and need to confirm in the morning is that my temp guage may be reading too high now as well as the fuel gauge staying on "Full". Is it possible the voltage stabilizer is putting out too much? The gauge specialist had tested the fuel gauge and determined that the likely culprit was the stabilizer. He sold me one that was for Neg ground and I believe 10v....

I'll check in the morning when the car is cool, as driving now (on a rel cool day) it is reading 225F...

Any thoughts?
 
I've had a lot of gauges pass through my shop as I feed some of my 'Tiger' habit with e-Bay sales... I have a Smiths instrument tester and always check the one's I'm able to...Here's some pics of a water temp gauge on test. The first pic is at exactly 10 volts. The tester is set to 'N' and the gauge needle is in line with the calibration mark. The next pic is at 12 volts and the third pic at 14 volts. My car's alt puts out at least 14 volts when I'm driving...so that would be going to the gauge if the stabilizer was not functioning . You will get similar results with the fuel gauge


Jim
B382000446
 
Thanks, While at rest after not driving for 2 hours, ignition on and my temp gauge reads as your first pic.

May have found the problem....packaging for the stabilizer says neg gnd...but when I just went to make sure the ground connection was good, noticed that the stabilizer is stamped +GND....would that be it?
 
lets see...

The most common cause of gas gauge trouble is a poor ground, especially at the tank sender unit. It is important that all wiring connections are clean and tight, and free of dirt and corrosion. A poor ground or loose connection to a gas gauge is just as likely to cause problems as loose or dirty battery cables assuredly will with your starting system.... try it.... hid kits
A business that makes nothing but money is a poor business.
Henry Ford
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Problem solved. Voltage stabilizer was mislabeled and was actually a +gnd unit in a-gnd package. Swapped out out for the correct negative gnd unit and all word as out should.
 
It shouldn't make any difference weather the voltage stabilizer is - or + ground as it is an on-off device. What it consists of is a heated bi-metallic strip with a set of points. It sends the full voltage through to the gauges at various lengths and intervals which depend on both the input voltage and temperature providing both voltage and temperature compensation for the gauges. If you connect a 12v test light to it's output you will see the light flashing on and off, more and longer "on" cycles will give higher readings on the gauges.
 
Whatever works

Growler said:
Problem solved. Voltage stabilizer was mislabeled and was actually a +gnd unit in a-gnd package. Swapped out out for the correct negative gnd unit and all word as out should.
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I opted for a solid state aftermarket and things are humming fine.
 
The stabilizer(s) that I got are also of the solid state type that have a transistor in it and unlike the older type are either + or-ground but not interchangeable
 
The problem with most solid state voltage stabilizers is that they don't provide temperature compensation, only voltage regulation. Temperature compensation is needed because the gauges themselves are heated bi-metallic strip devices whose readings are affected by the underdash ambient temperature. The crude factory stabilizer provides both voltage regulation and temperature compensation.
 
Environments Akin

wag123 said:
The problem with most solid state voltage stabilizers is that they don't provide temperature compensation, only voltage regulation. Temperature compensation is needed because the gauges themselves are heated bi-metallic strip devices whose readings are affected by the underdash ambient temperature. The crude factory stabilizer provides both voltage regulation and temperature compensation.
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And, it sits under the dash with the herd . . . . . .
 
wag123 said:
The crude factory stabilizer provides both voltage regulation and temperature compensation.
Click to expand...

Can you still buy these? SS lists both pos and neg units, so I think theirs is the newer style solid state/transistor types as well.
 
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