Just say no to stuffing a Turkey!

From the center, move outward alternating both directions in 10 lb steps.

Randy, found this from a Cobra forum.

mil.jpg
 
Randy is right, the definitive answer will come from the head manufacturer but the sequence I'm used to is....

9 5 2 4 8

7 3 1 6 10
 
Yet Another Torquing Sequence!

Randy is right, the definitive answer will come from the head manufacturer but the sequence I'm used to is....

9 5 2 4 8

7 3 1 6 10

In his How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford, Tom Monroe shows this torquing sequence:
9 5 1 3 7

10 6 2 4 8

Keep in mind that this is for cast iron heads. The odd numbers are the long head bolts under the rockers and the even numbers are for the shorter bolts by the plugs. The book also recommends torquing in at least three steps.

David
 
Guys....guys....guys!

We are talking about the intake manifold, not the heads.

Duke
As long as the manifold is true and square with the heads there is nothing
magical about torquing the manifold just work from the center on both sides
and work towards both ends in sequence. Also don't over tighten !!! I don't
have my reference handy but 25 ft/lbs is what I recall. Use some sealant
around the water passages only......

You know that run in stand only takes 23" to store.........and at $2k for all the bells and whistles it would pay for itself the first time you use it...I almost bought one when I had my motor being built but then I was going to dyno
the motor anyways so I probably wouldn't need it again.......it's not like a fussy stroker motor......

Moondoggie
 
.....it's not like a fussy stroker motor......

I sent a email to AFR asking them to stop recommending that intake gasket on their webpage. There are multiple pages on the internet with many, many failures of that gasket. It is a gasket designed for racing engines that gets torn down often and can not take the heat cycles of a street engine.

I torqued the intake in three stages 96 in/lbs, 16 ft/lbs and then 21 ft/lbs. I used the pattern in the Tiger shop manual which is as you describe. I have ordered a different gasket (Edelbrock #7219) and will use Loctite blue around the water ports.

Was just asking about the different pattern found in the picture.
 
Duke,

I know from Pic's you have a Weiand intake, a single plane as I recall.

FWIW, I have a Weiand 8020 dual plane intake. The instructions say to use the Ford manual torque sequence, which is what you say you are using going in steps of 10, then 15 then 25 ft. lbs. (less on ends if heads do not support manifold ears.) It also recommends a Felpro gasket 1250.

You might want to check out the Weiand website technical info section for your model intake just to confirm what they recommend for it.

Gene
 
DYou might want to check out the Weiand website technical info section for your model intake just to confirm what they recommend for it.

Gene

Thanks Gene,

They are showing only general instructions. Will go with the shop manual recommended pattern.
 
Was there warpage on the heads?
How much did the machine shop mill off the heads?

No warpage....just skinned the heads to remove the HG fire rings. Seems that the heads never needed to come off as all was well, just residual water in the crank case. Have 1.5 gallons of E85 to pour into the crank case/oil pan to slosh around and then drain. That should get the rest of the milkshake residue out as E35 absorbs water.

Gotta go, have two heads to install. :D
 
Been back up and running for a week now, just drove it two hours to a MACC club meeting and back. All is well as the oil is where it should be and the coolant is staying in its place. Ran it up to 118 mph at one time.....(only takes a few seconds)......the drip pan under the car has remained dripless. KNOCK ON WOOD.

Did notice that with the cooler air, need to up a jet size on the primaries as I am getting slight lean bucking at cruise. Have slight rubbing (225/50 15) at the rear right side under hard acceleration.....plan on taking care of that with a rubber mallet.

Rear leaf spring are getting pretty rusty and squeaky, gonna spray them with some sea-foam and lube the front mounting points up again. Will have to eventually pull them, dissemble and paint.

I love just doing minor maintenance jobs!
 
Rear Leafs

If you do end up pulling them apart for process, we always reassemble with strips of hard heavy equipment grease between the layers. It stays in there and shuts them up for decades.
 
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