Leaking Expansion Tank
- Thread starter 1966 TGR
- Start date
Warren
Gold forum user
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Wow
My car was not even close to yours at donut derelicts, but I have same problem. I was going to pull mine but all my repipe copper soldering stuff is 90 miles away.
I was thinking 95/5 lead free would do job fine. I have old 50/50 about but figure the lead free is much stronger. It would not be problem to do one more, but it won't be pretty shiny brass any more like yours is. I wanted to drive it Sat to a local event but may spring for a new torch cause they are always handy on frozen bolts etc.
I can't remember the shop in Hawthorne or Inglewood name in my pile of receipts some place. I will have to
look.
My car was not even close to yours at donut derelicts, but I have same problem. I was going to pull mine but all my repipe copper soldering stuff is 90 miles away.
I was thinking 95/5 lead free would do job fine. I have old 50/50 about but figure the lead free is much stronger. It would not be problem to do one more, but it won't be pretty shiny brass any more like yours is. I wanted to drive it Sat to a local event but may spring for a new torch cause they are always handy on frozen bolts etc.
I can't remember the shop in Hawthorne or Inglewood name in my pile of receipts some place. I will have to
look.
Warren
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 3,872
Propane
I like propane rather than the MAPP they are selling at Home Depot. It really does not need to be that hot and the 2 half seams seem like they would be challenging. While I have never done a radiator I have done hundreds or 1000's feet of copper. Clean them clean again silver solder has a much higher melting temp then the old 50 lead and 50 tin on there so I'd stick to the 95/5 as you will have less worry about melting other close joints/repairs.
The water based flux is nice and use a good set of glasses as you can see when the self tinning in the flux melts and then you are good to sweat and let the capillary action draw in the new solder.
I know you have been meaning to paint the tank satin black anyway, but it did look good as polished brass.
I can't find that my radiator receipt.But .... ah ha 4151 Marine Avenue
Lawndale, CA 90260
(310) 676-2936 Crandall Radiator
Bad memory and I got over the brain fog of confusion Crandall, all I could think about was our fellow member Gary who shares the same last name if not the same spelling?
These guys did my 3 row stock rad, the heater core, but the tank looked fine then but not any more
I like propane rather than the MAPP they are selling at Home Depot. It really does not need to be that hot and the 2 half seams seem like they would be challenging. While I have never done a radiator I have done hundreds or 1000's feet of copper. Clean them clean again silver solder has a much higher melting temp then the old 50 lead and 50 tin on there so I'd stick to the 95/5 as you will have less worry about melting other close joints/repairs.
The water based flux is nice and use a good set of glasses as you can see when the self tinning in the flux melts and then you are good to sweat and let the capillary action draw in the new solder.
I know you have been meaning to paint the tank satin black anyway, but it did look good as polished brass.
I can't find that my radiator receipt.But .... ah ha 4151 Marine Avenue
Lawndale, CA 90260
(310) 676-2936 Crandall Radiator
Bad memory and I got over the brain fog of confusion Crandall, all I could think about was our fellow member Gary who shares the same last name if not the same spelling?
These guys did my 3 row stock rad, the heater core, but the tank looked fine then but not any more
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- 525
Solder alarmist post...
OK, I won't go too too deep into this...
Pb is ductile, High Sn Pb-free, less so...
I'm not certain just how much pressure / expansion force a tank seam itself may come under, but if the joint is flexing under thermal cycle (hot, cold, hot, cold)... Then SnPb often remains a preferred solution.
However, yes, Lead Free solders ARE "stronger" when testing initial shear force (lateral).
Honestly, I'd have to think either would work and that simply the wetting quality between the two interfaces plays a greater role.
Had my expansion tank, heater core, cross over fuel pipes and tanks tested and sealed. We'll see... I have my doubts. The heater core definitely was pressurized / expanded and 'carmelized' for my enjoyment.
Good luck,
Derek
OK, I won't go too too deep into this...
Pb is ductile, High Sn Pb-free, less so...
I'm not certain just how much pressure / expansion force a tank seam itself may come under, but if the joint is flexing under thermal cycle (hot, cold, hot, cold)... Then SnPb often remains a preferred solution.
However, yes, Lead Free solders ARE "stronger" when testing initial shear force (lateral).
Honestly, I'd have to think either would work and that simply the wetting quality between the two interfaces plays a greater role.
Had my expansion tank, heater core, cross over fuel pipes and tanks tested and sealed. We'll see... I have my doubts. The heater core definitely was pressurized / expanded and 'carmelized' for my enjoyment.
Good luck,
Derek
Success
Successful solder repair!
. I took thin brass strips, 3/4 wide, curved to match tank radius, and sweat soldered them over the area with cracks and pinholes (all concentrated on each side of the seam at the bottom.)
The seam flange was leaking as well. Before I ran a solder bead all around the flange, I tightly wrapped heavy wire end to end, to make sure the flanges didn't separate. The flange acts like a trough, so important to keep it level, so the solder puddle distributes evenly.
Pressure tested with 14 lb. cap and soap suds on outside of tank. . No bubbles.
Heat turns the brass copper color, but a bit of wire brush work with drill and Dremel, followed by buffing brings back the brass and it will look good as new.
Thanks for all the ideas. I do like the one about inserting a "modern" tank inside the original brass tank, especially if brass tank is too far gone.
Successful solder repair!
. I took thin brass strips, 3/4 wide, curved to match tank radius, and sweat soldered them over the area with cracks and pinholes (all concentrated on each side of the seam at the bottom.)
The seam flange was leaking as well. Before I ran a solder bead all around the flange, I tightly wrapped heavy wire end to end, to make sure the flanges didn't separate. The flange acts like a trough, so important to keep it level, so the solder puddle distributes evenly.
Pressure tested with 14 lb. cap and soap suds on outside of tank. . No bubbles.
Heat turns the brass copper color, but a bit of wire brush work with drill and Dremel, followed by buffing brings back the brass and it will look good as new.
Thanks for all the ideas. I do like the one about inserting a "modern" tank inside the original brass tank, especially if brass tank is too far gone.