My fuel pump install

D

Duke Mk1a

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Asked a while back for pics of fuel pump trunk installs. Here is what I came up with -

P7010062.jpg


P7010061.jpg

The location allows for the stock spare tire to be used and fits under the floor panel. I am using 3/8 line from the tanks to the carb with only ~4" of rubber line in the complete system.

Still have to connect to the 3/8 line from the tanks to the pump and then from filter to to the 3/8 line to the carb.

http://www.sx-performance.com/Fuel_Pumps.htm

The pump is made by SX Performance, they make the pump sold by Edelbrock (quite-flow) and Jegs under different names, the SX pump is $30 less. This pump can be mounted in any position (which in itself is a rarity) and is supposed to be very quiet.
 
Hey Duke

Looks great so far...

I have that same filter hanging from the original pump location at the moment. I, and a couple others are in the process of doing a similar setup to yours... I haven't had time to work on it lately and am real curious about adapting from the fuel pump inlet to the crossover tube with a 3/8" line as I don't know what the fitting in the tube looks like except that it only has a 5/16" hard line coming out of it ! Please let us know what you do with that.

BTW, after a 16 month wait, I am finally mounting my replacement 245/50 14's for the back end today ! Coker tire finally came through and made their 200 tire order for OZ and made and extra 20 for the U.S. although they haven't bothered to list them on their website. I can't wait to try 'em out !!

Jim
B382000446
 
Got the 3/8 line to the crossover. Was not as hard as I thought it would be.

I cut the 5/16 line to get the compression fitting off. Drilled the opening to 3/8. Here was the tricky part.....getting a proper flare on the 3/8 without the compression collar (would not fit). I went down to AutoZone and used their brake line double flare kit. The trick is to stop at step one and not push the flare down in the second step. Also, while creating the flare be sure to check that it will still fit inside the fitting. If you flare it too much, it will be too wide. So far so good, no leaks.

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Here is the pump install finished -

014-2.jpg


Spare tire still fits great -

015-2.jpg


The fuel system can now support tuning and my 480-500 HP goal.
 
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Duke,

That is a really nice install, and good to get it under the false floor. I couldnt see what you used to mount it to the panel, but if you haventused isolating bobbins (as in exhaust style 2 bolts seperated in rubber) i would use them as the pumps to generate vibration that will transfer as noise on the panel.
 
Looks good so far... I have the Edelbrock version of the same pump
and a similiar install although I used AN6 braided fuel line. It will be interesting to see if your flare leaks under operating conditions. As is normal
for my plumbing projects the base plate under the pump has a small leak
so I would tighten the three screws holding it down now while you can. I will
probably have to replace my pump since tightening did nothing!!! One other
suggestion, buy a relay kit for the pump !! Summit sells one that is prewired
and very nice. The stock pump wire is undersized for a modern pump and you also need a stout circuit breaker in case of a short......The pump will maintain a contant 6-5.5 lbs at the carb no problem, you will have to adjust the regulator since you will lose about 2.5 lbs pressure over the run of fuel line.
The good news is the pump is about as quite as you can get and NO vibration
into the interior........I just need to solve the leak.............

Bill in Carmel, Cat member
 
Hey Guys,

Got to driving around this morning.

The pump is louder that I like even with 1/8 rubber between it and the trunk wall. I can not use any thick mounts due to the limited space for the input line. I might look at flipping the bracket 180 and then using rubber mount to the back side of the tire well. Here is a thought, how about no bracket? Just use the hard lines to support the pump?

The 347 drowns it out above idle....then again, it drowns about everything out.

The relay is a good idea but I noticed that the stock wire is a larger gauge that the wire from the pump. Both the ground and power wires are rather small.

Pressure - under full throttle, it is dropping to just under 5 psi. That ticks me off some. But even just below 5 psi, the carb. should not be effected. I was hoping never to see the pressure move.

Still no leaks! :D
 
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Duke,

Thats the reason i asked about what type of mounts you used, rubber does nothing to stop the sound/vibration, you really need to use some isolating bobbins.

If you go to the summit website they list some quite small bobbins for isolate mounting the crane/msd control boxes, maybe have a look if you might be able to make them work? Exhaust ones would be perfect, but they are a lot thicker.
 
The relay is a good idea but I noticed that the stock wire is a larger gauge that the wire from the pump. Both the ground and power wires are rather small.


The wires on the new pump are small but the current draw from a relay is
considerably less. If you look at what is drawn off the ignition key circuit
and realize that all of that is protected by one fuse it's best to reduce that current flow as much as possible. Additions like modern ignition and radio's
quickly put the original wire harness at risk.

Bill Carmel Ca
 
"The pump is louder than I like even with 1/8 rubber between it and the trunk wall"

I would have to agree with you now that I have had a chance to drive the car some after fixing the leak, it took a new pump to fix the leak.

I have ordered some vibration dampers from Summit Racing pn AEI-11601
that should do a good job of eliminating the high pitched whine and I'll let
you know how that goes. On the other hand the noise draws lots of looks
in the gas station when you flip on the ignition !!!

Bill D Carmel
 
Yea, let me know Bill.

I had to fix three different leaks yesterday. Input to pump was was leaking, filter was leaking from the top bolt and the connection to the crossover. I tightened all enough to stop the leaks.

I am also thinking of replacing the output to the filter input hard line with a braided rubber line (as suggested by another member) because I think it transfers a lot of vibrations to the filter housing and thus the trunk wall.

The ONLY thing worst than oil leaks is fuel leaks. I have 0 tolerance for both.

I sure know when the pump or filter is leaking now.....smell gets to me quick.

I just ordered two of these - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AIS-1228599/
I hope they are a soft rubber.
 
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Duke,

The AEI-11601 are the correct parts for isolating the pump and think
of them as two 1/4-20 bolts held together by a rubber plug. They significantly
reduce the whine. The bad news is that some vibration/whine still transfers
through the fuel lines. I have used SST braided AN fuel lines from the pump
to bulk head AN fittings going through the sheetmetal. I need to come up
with some rubber washers to isolate the feed thru fittings. Naturally I filled the gas tanks so now I will have to drive the car to get rid of some gas...damn
I hate when that happens !!!

Bill D Carmel...........I see that there is another guy in Carmel selling parts on EBAY, it is not me !!!
 
Duke,

I sent you a PM as I can't figure out how to down size my picture format
to meet the size requirement...check your in box.

Moondoggie
 
Here is Moondoggie's set up.

Very clean!

Tigerfuelpump003s.jpg

I really like the relay and on/off switch. Gonna steal that idea for sure.

Tigerfuelpump001s.jpg
 
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Bill's setup looks good ! Like the on/off switch... Those mounts look quite like the exhaust isolators on the Tiger although those ones are 3/8" NF .Owain Lloyd posted a pic ( on the 'list' ) of a fitting that he used on the crossover to utilize 3/8" tube which I'll post below... I also came across a 1/4" BSP to -6 AN ( JIC ) adapter that looks like it may work too...
This damn work ( temp. out-of-town job ) is getting in the way of Tigering... I'm only home for about 40 hrs. on the weekends so no time to experiment .. at least I'm done at the end of the month.
Jim
B382000446
 
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Jim,

Don't work too hard as it gets in the way of retirement !!!

Here's the deal with the cross over pipe... I have seen one out of the car
and it has about a 2"x 5/16 stub that snakes down under the trunk floor where it terminates at the 5/16" flare. To get more flow you need to replace
that stub with something bigger or your dealing with the same 5/16th restriction. The hot setup would be to weld in a 1/2 AN8 stub and fitting
and go AN8 all the way up to the carb...this is what the Cobra guys do.

If you are running flowmasters and 3" exhaust the pump I used gets drowned out by engine noise after using the vibration isolators. I don't think the exhaust donuts will work as well since the bolt goes all the way through the rubber.

I will send you a PM...I installed the spindles and Dale's springs yesterday
and they are fantastic !!!

Moondoggie
 
Bill,

I thought I'd do a little measuring on some pieces that I have on hand to see where the various restrictions really are...
First off, the only thing I don't have handy to measure is a piece of 5/16" tubing ! I will take a guess and say that it might be 1/4" ( 0.250" ) i.d. at best... so right there that's the most restrictive part... no question about that.

I haven't yet had a chance to verify that 2" stub coming out of the crossover tube but if it's actually 5/16" ( 0.3125" ) i.d. then compared to other measurements I've taken, I don't think you'd lose very much there with a 3/8" system as some of the other parts are smaller yet !
I'll post pics of 3/8" tubing, AN fittings and 3/8" braided hose for reference and you can see that, except for the hose, they are ALL smaller than 5/16" i.d. !

So... at the very least, the elimination of ALL of the 5/16" tubing is gonna gain you quite a bit... and probably enough for us 400h.p. (and less ) bunch! ;)

Jim
 
Moondoggie said:
Here's the deal with the cross over pipe... I have seen one out of the car and it has about a 2"x 5/16 stub that snakes down under the trunk floor where it terminates at the 5/16" flare.
Click to expand...

Are you sure its that small? Looking at the hole on the "stub" when I just worked on mine, it looked more like 3/8.

Is is straight? Can I just run a 3/8 drill through it?
 
JIm,

The stock tubing measures .312od/.247id and AN6 fittings are .272id
and the hose is .329id. So by going to AN6 stuff you will get about 18% more
flow than the stock stuff as the fittings determine flow rate. This becomes important when you consider you are on gravity feed side of the system.
Now will a 400 hp motor run out of gas on 5/16 fuel line ???? Good question !!

Duke,

Remember that you are looking at the end of a flare and it probably does look
big but just a ways into the tube it is .247ID. So NO you can't drill it out to .375 with a wall of only .031. I have only seen a picture of the cross tube with
the fuel line attached and it can't be straight and must have a curve to it. Maybe someone here can enlighten us with a picture ???

Right now I am tapped into the 5/16 fuel line between the tank and pump myself waiting for a solution that will not leak at that cross over pipe and welding a new tube and fitting seems to be the best option...except you have to remove the cross over tube and I hear that is a bitch !!!!

Bill
 
Tom Hall at ModTiger Engineering LLC is very experienced at converting a crossover tube to a 3/8 connection. He drills out the existing tube and welds in a swagelok stainless steel fitting, allowing you to run 3/8 tubing all the way from the tanks with no bottlenecks. One needs to send him the cross over tube, but those hose connections probably could do with being replaced anyway after 43+ years, especially considering today's gasoline blends. Obviously no affiliation on my part!

Gene
 
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