New M/C from SS

Do you raise the rear higher than front when you bleed them?.. Can help move any bubbles towards that end.
KettleCarver said:
So, what is the gremlin with bleeding the rears? Is there some special technique to be used?

My car does not have a booster installed, so that is not the problem.
Click to expand...
 
The shop manual has a "different" bleeding routine.
As I recall you don't start with the farthest away from the brake master like other cars. I hope it's not multiple choice on a quiz.
 
KettleCarver said:
So, what is the gremlin with bleeding the rears? Is there some special technique to be used?

My car does not have a booster installed, so that is not the problem.
Click to expand...
The stock design only allows bleeding from the left and has a tendency to leave air bubbles. I found that elevating the left side of the car sped the process up considerably.
 
Austin Healer, I think you found the problem. Based on your input, I checked the free play on the pedal. There was NONE! The pedal was hard up the brake pedal stop. I checked the free play on my friend's car parked in my barn. His had decent free play, and the pedal stop was removed from his car.

I removed the pedal stop from my car as well, which gave it plenty of free play. Now the passenger side spins freely. The drivers side still sticks slightly, but not full-on stuck like before. The brake pedal feels nice and firm, and will release the calipers now.

Is it a common practice to remove the stop on these cars?
 
Warren said:
I was disappointed to get a cast iron brake master from SS. If going stock be sure to ask ...
Click to expand...
I checked my supplier (Moss) and they have the cylinder in cast iron as well... 2 different suppliers TRW/Girling at $74 or no name (probably Chinese) at $35, Same master cylinder as the Austin Healey 3000 Mk3. Have yet to find a source in alloy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top