radiator cap
- Thread starter drbill
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Warren
Gold forum user
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Seen more than one heater core with bulged ends from either too much pressure or too much crap. What is it hmmmm auto shop was a long time ago maybe add 3 degrees to boiling point of water for each pound of pressure?
Be sure to add a Gano filter from the club parts where house and clean the core...
Seen more than one heater core with bulged ends from either too much pressure or too much crap. What is it hmmmm auto shop was a long time ago maybe add 3 degrees to boiling point of water for each pound of pressure?
Be sure to add a Gano filter from the club parts where house and clean the core...
I think that the correct radiator cap should be 9 lbs. Years ago I heard some people talking about having problems with heater core failures using the higher pressure caps. I have been using a 9 lb cap without any issues for 15 years.
I have used the GANO coolant filters and don't like them. I had a clear plastic one fail catastrophically on me and a metal one plug up and cause me to overheat.
I strongly recommend the TEFBA Coolant Filter. It is a little pricey but it is a superior quality nicely designed piece and WELL worth the price difference. One important feature is that the TEFBA filter is designed in such a way that if filter screen gets plugged up, the increased back pressure will allow coolant to bypass the screen so the engine won't overheat (works by pressure differential, kind of like the bypass valve in an oil filter). You can also clean the filter without removing it from the radiator hose or draining the cooling system, the removable cap allows you to check and clean it regularly without a hassle. Just unscrew the cap and pull the screen out of the top, it couldn't be any easier!
Every time I show the car several people ask me about it. Everyone who sees it wants one.
I wish that the club sold the TEFBA instead of the GANO. In the US there is a Jaguar parts company that sells them.
http://www.tefba.com/index.html
http://franktonitto.com/tefba.php
I have used the GANO coolant filters and don't like them. I had a clear plastic one fail catastrophically on me and a metal one plug up and cause me to overheat.
I strongly recommend the TEFBA Coolant Filter. It is a little pricey but it is a superior quality nicely designed piece and WELL worth the price difference. One important feature is that the TEFBA filter is designed in such a way that if filter screen gets plugged up, the increased back pressure will allow coolant to bypass the screen so the engine won't overheat (works by pressure differential, kind of like the bypass valve in an oil filter). You can also clean the filter without removing it from the radiator hose or draining the cooling system, the removable cap allows you to check and clean it regularly without a hassle. Just unscrew the cap and pull the screen out of the top, it couldn't be any easier!
Every time I show the car several people ask me about it. Everyone who sees it wants one.
I wish that the club sold the TEFBA instead of the GANO. In the US there is a Jaguar parts company that sells them.
http://www.tefba.com/index.html
http://franktonitto.com/tefba.php
TigerBlue
Gold forum user
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- 827
Gano's and caps
The plastic Gano is not offered anymore, a good thing.
My experience (only with brass Gano) has been good. A new or rebuilt engine and also engines which have been off the road for a long time will have lots of crud in them and the filter should be used checked soon, like within a few hundred miles the first time and often until you stop finding lots of bits in the filter. After using the Gano for awhile most of the loose debris will be gone. BTW this crud is bad for Tigers because the rad core is horizontal and lower 1/4 of the radiator cores will plug up with the crud. Common vertical core radiators do not have this problem.
Regarding the pressure (release) cap. On the car 9# 13# and 16# and at say 220 degrees will not change the actual pressure in the system. Which should be about 3psi? regardless of the release point. Keep in mind that when you shut off a hot engine the coolant stops flowing. The coolent in the heads (which are the hottest metal in the engine) will add a few degrees to the local water and pressure will rise a couple psi or so. That can create coolant puke after turning off the key if the cap is weak.
Rick
The plastic Gano is not offered anymore, a good thing.
My experience (only with brass Gano) has been good. A new or rebuilt engine and also engines which have been off the road for a long time will have lots of crud in them and the filter should be used checked soon, like within a few hundred miles the first time and often until you stop finding lots of bits in the filter. After using the Gano for awhile most of the loose debris will be gone. BTW this crud is bad for Tigers because the rad core is horizontal and lower 1/4 of the radiator cores will plug up with the crud. Common vertical core radiators do not have this problem.
Regarding the pressure (release) cap. On the car 9# 13# and 16# and at say 220 degrees will not change the actual pressure in the system. Which should be about 3psi? regardless of the release point. Keep in mind that when you shut off a hot engine the coolant stops flowing. The coolent in the heads (which are the hottest metal in the engine) will add a few degrees to the local water and pressure will rise a couple psi or so. That can create coolant puke after turning off the key if the cap is weak.
Rick
cadreamn67
Platinum Forum Member
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- 608
Building on what Warren has said, the heater core is made for an Alpine which runs with, I believe. only a 9 psi cap. The stock Tiger cap is a 13 psi unit. The heater core was not designed for that higher pressure.
It is possible that your heater core has bulged end caps, in which case you cannot get it out. Usually they leak if that happens. There is an old CAT shop notes tech tip which I implemented after having my core rebuilt. You just make some steel plates the size of the ends and secure them with a stainless steel worm clamp wrapped around the core horizontally. There are large such clamps used in HVAC duct work applications. Cannot remember if I had to joint two together or not to get the necessary length. As I recall, I had to put the worm screw part at the back side in order to get the core back in. Anyway, it seems to have worked for about the last 10+ years or so. No leaks anyway.
Gene
BTW, there is an interesting (to me) comparison and discussion of coolant filters, including some build your own suggestions at http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/CoolantFilters.html
It is possible that your heater core has bulged end caps, in which case you cannot get it out. Usually they leak if that happens. There is an old CAT shop notes tech tip which I implemented after having my core rebuilt. You just make some steel plates the size of the ends and secure them with a stainless steel worm clamp wrapped around the core horizontally. There are large such clamps used in HVAC duct work applications. Cannot remember if I had to joint two together or not to get the necessary length. As I recall, I had to put the worm screw part at the back side in order to get the core back in. Anyway, it seems to have worked for about the last 10+ years or so. No leaks anyway.
Gene
BTW, there is an interesting (to me) comparison and discussion of coolant filters, including some build your own suggestions at http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/CoolantFilters.html
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Before I got laid off, (FIRED) for calling my apprentices stupid idiots, and told them they didnt belong in the union, I taught how to figure pressure and temp formulas.
View attachment 1923
Of course the smart ones just used the chart.
View attachment 1924
View attachment 1923
Of course the smart ones just used the chart.
View attachment 1924
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Ed-U-Ma-Kay-Shun
Apprentices are supposed to be abused; culling is the only worthy process.
Apprentices are supposed to be abused; culling is the only worthy process.