Removing wind up window and regulator

H

H00kem

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I want to remove my wind-up windows and regulators to work on the doors and refurbish the regulators.

Questions:

Do I have to remove the windows before removing the regulators or will is all slide out as once piece of I unbolt the regulator?

If I have to remove the windows first, how is that best done? My guess is that the window glass is probably held in the base channel by very old sealant.

Can the base channel be removed separate from the regulator?

Kevin
 
H00kem said:
I want to remove my wind-up windows and regulators to work on the doors and refurbish the regulators.

Questions:

Do I have to remove the windows before removing the regulators or will is all slide out as once piece of I unbolt the regulator?

Kevin
Click to expand...

Hi Kevin,

I have done this many times but it has been awhile so this is from memory.

Removing window and regulator:

--Remove all inside door hardware
--pop off the door panel
--remove the outer window to door seal (this is optional and just makes the window easier to slide out)
--remove the 1/4 window and the attached front channel (no need to remove the bolted in front channel that the 1/4 window channel slides into). Removing the 1/4 window allows the window to roll up an extra 1" to help in it's removal
--loosen all the regulator bolts (I think there are 3)
--roll the window all the way up
--remove the rear bolt so the regulator will tip down at the rear
--slide the window forward off the regulator channel and out of the door
--tip the regulator back into it's original position and reinstall the rear bolt
--roll the window regulator down
--remove the regulator bolts and remove the regulator from the large opening in the door

Reinstalling: Just the reverse order but you need to go slow and be patient to get everything aligned up so the door window rolls up and down correctly.

This would be a good time to remove and replace all the channel felt

Restoration Tip: If you want your door to sound like a 2013 Cadillac on closing (instead of a Model-T falling apart bolt-by-blot)--while the window and regulator is out glue in as insulation to as much of the inner door panel as possible. I have lost track of how many comments I have had about how solid my doors feel when they are being closed.

Good luck--and keep asking yourself "Are we having fun yet"

John
 
Thanks very much John. I appreciate it. Sounds like the window channel slides off base which now makes sense to me.

Yes, I plan on installing Fatmat on the inside of the door shell after which I will also do a bit of rust proofing by spraying the exposed metal with Eastwoods wax anti-rust. I have noticed that rust proofing on these cars in 1965 was modest at best. The Fatmat really does make the door feel and sound so solid. And yes, I am replacing all rubber and felt and will also clean the refurbish the window regulator.

Again, most helpful. I have a shop manual but honestly the instructions for removal are minimal at best and really do a very poor job describing the actual removal process. Appreciate your plain English explanation. You guys have been most helpful to me in coaching me through various aspects of these cars.

Kevin
 
window regulator

John, great tip.now I guess I should do mine. What kind of insulation did you use? Joe.
 
Hi Joe,
It was so long ago I don't remember what kind of insulation I used. Any of the automotive insulation available now days should work.

John
 
John,

Your memory must be great. The instructions worked like a charm. All parts are removed and now being refurbished. Thanks again!

Kevin
 
Fatmat !

:confused:Wow, I wish I had researched enough to learn about that product. Rick M @ SS told me most people just spray undercoating inside the door while the components are out.
 
Yes, Fatmat works just as well as Dynamat and at a fraction of the price when sourced on eBay. They have various thicknesses but I recommend the Xtreme mat for best results. I have used it on several Ferrari restorations I have completed to good results both in sound deadning and heat blockage. It is heavy though so not good for racing. Best of luck!
 
I pulled my windows yesterday and found this thread very helpful. I found the description of the fasteners not to be accurate for my early car, so I wrote an updated version of what worked for me. The description in the workshop manual is useless. Hopefully this will help somebody else!
Cheers, -Kevin

—Remove all inside door hardware
--pop off the door panel
--remove the outer window to door seal (this is optional and just makes the window easier to slide out)
--remove the 1/4 window and the attached front channel (no need to remove the bolted in front channel that the 1/4 window channel slides into). Removing the 1/4 window allows the window to roll up an extra 1" to help in it's removal
--roll the window all the way up
--loosen the upper rear Phillips heads screw attaching the forward part of the regulator to the door and remove the remaining three Phillips head screws
—remove both pairs of straight slot screws that mount the rear half of the regulator to the door
—carefully tip the regulator down at the rear exposing the front of the window from the slot in the door
--slide the window forward off the regulator channel and out of the door
--tip the regulator back into it's original position
--roll the window regulator down
--remove the the remaining regulator screw and remove the regulator from the large opening in the door
 
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