Shift Knob threads

[Seabrook]

OK: In the interest of moving on, I'll fire up the lathe and make you a bushing. Send me the exact size and tpi of the male stub and the exact size and tpi of the female knob . . . . . . .amen

Thanks! Plus I also got a PM'ed offer. This club is great.

Early in the topic, Justin mentioned "Looks like the shifter is 1/2-18 and the tap handle is 3/8-16" but to be sure, I should drag out my thread-chaser set this weekend and see if those two are right before metal is committed. Plus my wife may have a line on someone local but I won't wait long on that.

I'm thirsty!

Oh, wait -- I don't have to give up my BON or anything, do I?

 

[Seabrook]

I kinda agree with the earlier note about a strict-definition bushing with one set of thread inside the other might not leave much metal left to grab anything, versus a cylinder maybe an inch long with male threads at one end and female at the other. Then again, I'm not an engineer.

Fun with thread-chasers this weekend..

Justin mentioned "Looks like the tap handle is 3/8-16"

My re-check bear this out, and the threaded projection is maybe 9/16' long.

Justin mentioned "Looks like the shifter is 1/2-18 "

I don't have a 1/2"x18TPI thread chaser but my 1/2" x 20TPI one went in like velvet all the way. Am I measuring wrong, or...??? Knob has threads 7/8" deep and even more dead-air space inside the knob beyond that.

 

[XTIGERX]

Don't believe this is an AMCO but stated as Tiger. Note that description says 1/2-20 thread so my earlier post of 1/2-18 may be incorrect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunbeam-Tig...Parts_Accessories&hash=item564b583e5c&vxp=mtr

That info will cost you a pint of your best.

I waffled on the 1/2-18. Go with 1/2-20 if that is what seemed to work for you.

a strict-definition bushing with one set of thread inside the other might not leave much metal left to grab anything, versus a cylinder maybe an inch long with male threads at one end and female at the other.

I just threw something out there since this was your project and so I didn't do any homework. Getting a little more involved I would say you will need to go with the cylinder method. The male threads are 3/8" and female are 1/2" so you might want to make overall cylinder length about 2-1/2" long. 1" for threads on each end and 1/2" for transition between the two. You can cut each end to length when you see how it fits together. I'd be discussing the particulars with the gentleman that made the offer to do the fab and send the pint his way.

 

[Seabrook]

Great feedback, Justin. Yes, the "adapter" I visualize would be about as you describe (except "Buddy Bar" cast into the side ) but at this point I'll take anything.

I waffled on the 1/2-18. Go with 1/2-20 if that is what seemed to work for you. I just threw something out there since this was your project and so I didn't do any homework. Getting a little more involved I would say you will need to go with the cylinder method. The male threads are 3/8" and female are 1/2" so you might want to make overall cylinder length about 2-1/2" long. 1" for threads on each end and 1/2" for transition between the two. You can cut each end to length when you see how it fits together. I'd be discussing the particulars with the gentleman that made the offer to do the fab and send the pint his way.

 

[Seabrook]

Guys -- never mind, it's done! My wife "knows a guy" she works with at NASA (name withheld) who made one up in brass to match the valve, it looks great! I do need to snip some shim stock to "index" the logo right-side-up on the knob, and few other finishing touches, then fill it up.

Alas, I don't think Tiger beer is available in kegs... or is it?