Tips/Tricks for installing the Windshield frame to the body?

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KettleCarver

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I hope to install the windshield frame on the body this week. The glass is already installed in the frame.

I have been researching this topic and have found some conflicting information. Especially around how to attach the body seal to the frame. I would love to hear what products and processes that you have used with success.

Thanks in advance.

Marty
 
Just went through that process with a Tiger last week. Used the post adjustment kit from SS that worked well with adjusting the screen angle to the door side window. The seal on the bottom of the window can be tricky, putting a dab of super glue on the frame to seal at the center inside keeps it from moving or dropping out. Have the instructions from SS if you need them.
 
I have the SS instructions that talks about putting super glue or contact cement on the frame to keep the seal from moving around.

I have also seen people using rope caulk in between the frame and the rubber seal. I also saw people put the rope caulk between the seal and the body. That is when it started getting confusing. Have you guys used anything between the seal and the body of the car?
 
Can you tell me what size/description “rope caulk” to use for this.?
 
The stuff I bought is about 1/8" thick, about 1 1/2" wide and come on a roll that is 45" long. It is supposed to stay pliable. I got it at a hardware store.
 
The rope seal is what is used to provide a packing that is weatherproof between the body and seal.

The factory called it "caulking cord" basically a mastic tape
 
While installing the windshield, I discovered that the frame was badly rusted underneath the chrome, which was not visible from the outside. I had to source a new frame. It was in better condition, but still needed rust repair in a couple of spots. So after a long detour to get that fixed, I installed the windshield last week, using the method showed on the "Life of Ti" website.

As you can see in the attached picture, there is a gap between the seal and the body. This is after being tightened it down quite a bit. It does not seem that further tightening will eliminate the gap.

Has anyone else encountered this and have a recommended solution?

Thanks,

Marty

Windshield seal gap.jpg
 
I did mine a few months ago, not an expert by any means. I found it fitted better without those rear adjusters I had bought from SS. I'd be tempted to set it on the cowl without the gasket and see how the frame gap looks.

IMG_7153.JPG
 
KenF said:
I did mine a few months ago, not an expert by any means. I found it fitted better without those rear adjusters I had bought from SS. I'd be tempted to set it on the cowl without the gasket and see how the frame gap looks.

View attachment 14436
Click to expand...
On advice from a friend that has restored multiple Tigers, I went with the factory shims over the adjusters. Unfortunately he lives in Florida. I have a message into him for further advice.
 
KettleCarver said:
While installing the windshield, I discovered that the frame was badly rusted underneath the chrome, which was not visible from the outside. I had to source a new frame. It was in better condition, but still needed rust repair in a couple of spots. So after a long detour to get that fixed, I installed the windshield last week, using the method showed on the "Life of Ti" website.

As you can see in the attached picture, there is a gap between the seal and the body. This is after being tightened it down quite a bit. It does not seem that further tightening will eliminate the gap.

Has anyone else encountered this and have a recommended solution?

Thanks,

Marty

View attachment 14435
Click to expand...
Hey Marty, any further resolution? Id like to see the bottom of the frame itself, along with how you sealed/mastic/caulked it AND if i Recall correctly, that rubber seal could be inverted 180deg as well. But, its difficult to see if the frame without the rubber there would really have a large gap (although it does look it from this photo). Finally, the dash pad itself (under the frame) is much thicker when new than the original compressed pad is (was). I shaved quite a lot of foam, almost to the plastic to thin it.

Im not a multicar expert, only had the one car to try and reproduce, but the original had never been removed, hence my ability to duplicate fit. Even then... you run into other potential issues with quarter window and hardtop (you have one?) fit.
 
DD (CA) said:
Hey Marty, any further resolution? Id like to see the bottom of the frame itself, along with how you sealed/mastic/caulked it AND if i Recall correctly, that rubber seal could be inverted 180deg as well. But, its difficult to see if the frame without the rubber there would really have a large gap (although it does look it from this photo). Finally, the dash pad itself (under the frame) is much thicker when new than the original compressed pad is (was). I shaved quite a lot of foam, almost to the plastic to thin it.

Im not a multicar expert, only had the one car to try and reproduce, but the original had never been removed, hence my ability to duplicate fit. Even then... you run into other potential issues with quarter window and hardtop (you have one?) fit.
Click to expand...
Hey Derek,

With the holidays, and house guests, I did not have much time to get back to this. It is still mounted to the body, so I don't have a picture of the frame itself. I did put it together like you show on your website. A layer of rope caulk above and below the rubber seal. I am sure the seal is oriented correctly. However, I did not shave off any material from the dash pad (only saw that part after I had mounted the dash pad). That may be at least part of the problem. I am using the stock rubber wedges instead of the adjusters from Sunbeam Specialties.

I have the quarter windows installed and I do have a hard top.

I had been tightening it down a little more each day for several days trying to get compression in all of the materials involved. I guess it may be time to remove the windshield and shave off some dash pad.

Thanks for the input!

Marty
 
KettleCarver said:
Hey Derek,

With the holidays, and house guests, I did not have much time to get back to this. It is still mounted to the body, so I don't have a picture of the frame itself. I did put it together like you show on your website. A layer of rope caulk above and below the rubber seal. I am sure the seal is oriented correctly. However, I did not shave off any material from the dash pad (only saw that part after I had mounted the dash pad). That may be at least part of the problem. I am using the stock rubber wedges instead of the adjusters from Sunbeam Specialties.

I have the quarter windows installed and I do have a hard top.

I had been tightening it down a little more each day for several days trying to get compression in all of the materials involved. I guess it may be time to remove the windshield and shave off some dash pad.

Thanks for the input!

Marty
Click to expand...
Marty, I totally get it. Had been productive on my hardtop restoration and then... it didnt "just fit together." Did some trimming to rubber, but still a challenge and so... I bailed on it. I think the rule is to leave it alone for a day or two... ive expanded that to a half year or two.

Anyway, the reason I ask is alignment of all those elements with only one car experience has to be pure luck. The gurus likely know by angle and gap whether or not they are even in the ballpark with the initial windscreen install.

My own opinion / suggestions... first, the caulk bead(s) and rubber thickness really affect the standoff from the pad. The original mastic was compressed and much much thinner than the new rope. You may need to review that thickness. Also, i feel the pad thickness will make a huge difference, especially if its causing a touch point in the "corners" to lift the wings. Next, there are 3 post and 5 post frames, just an FYI. Next, the original fitting had a number of washers on the post inside (under) the dash before the nuts. I recall 2-3 washers of varying thickness. In my case if the washers were lacking/short, this left less thread to be able to draw the frame down (if i recall you run out of thread near the underdash).

im thinking that in a perfect world the hardtop is untouched, complete and all clamps are in original position / alignment. Id might not fully tighten all windscreen frame nuts and poss do same for quarters, to then allow the HT to rest in position and THEN fully tighten frame once i knew the HT would be fitting. That seems like a s ton of fiddling and prevents weeks / months / years of joy just driving with top down though... so my lazy ass didnt do it "the right way". I'll be continuing to pay for that as i finally get back to trying the HT fit again.

If those pesky guests ever leave and you pull the frame back off, take some closer detail pics of what ya got.
 
Dereck,

I really appreciate the response and additional input.

Yes, those pesky guests have left. I hope to get back in the garage over the next few days.

Was the original "Sealastic" more like a double sided tape (much thinner)?

So, the plan would appear to be to remove the windshield again. Try to sand down the underside of the dash pad to get it as thin as possible in the seal area. Then try to take some of the thickness out of the rope caulk, then try the fitment again.

My frame is the 7 post type (2 posts at each end). Surprisingly, the corners have almost no gap, with almost no tightening of the nuts yet. I fact, I could not even fit a washer on them yet. Before I installed the frame, I used a die to add several more threads to each of the posts, to avoid a bottoming out situation. That may help with not having to add a bunch of washers. We will see, I guess.

When I get the frame off, I will take a few pictures.

Thanks!

Marty
 
I m in the process of fitting my windshield although I like others have been putting it off due to the fact that it sounds like a challenge to get it right. I will approach it by fitting the frame with the glass and trim installed to the hardtop and then see what gap there is between the frame and body There is adjustment on the hardtop latches which I will also take into account. I have not removed the quarter lights so that should not complicate the situation. Living In Arizona sealing against rain is not an issue. I did make adjusters like the kind one can purchase and will be used to tweak the angle against the quarter light. I did trim all the foam off the pad where the frame touches it because measuring the old pad it was less than 1/16 inch and figure that a thin layer of sealant can make up that gap The pad got installed today and the hardest part was making yourself into a ball to get the rivets in the thick black cardboard and fabric coated aluminum trim around the dashboard and this was with the car totally gutted inside an impossible job for a larger person and the seats installed.
Thanks for all that have posted their experience in their restorations
 
I got out to the barn today and removed the frame. Started hand sanding the underside of the dash pad to thin it out. That got pretty tedious, so I broke out the Dremel tool. What a difference. The Dremel made short work of the foam backing. Without the foam, the pad is quite thin.

I took a few pictures of the seal area. The caulking seemed to compress very little, if any. I think I definitely need to thin it out at least between the seal and cowl. I am not sure if I need to thin it out between the frame and the seal. It seems just to fill the void in that area. What do you guys think?

Pass side corner.jpg


center seal.jpg


Under seal.jpg
 
Me and my buddy Al spent the whole day trying to fit up the windshield.

We tried fitting it with the caulk under the seal with the factory rubber wedges. It leaves a gap between the body and the leading edge of the seal.

We then took the seal off and fitted it to the body. It fits the body pretty well. There was no significant anomaly to point to a cause for the gap.

Next we tried fitting up a new seal, without the caulk, and using the rubber wedges. Still have a gap at the front.

Lastly, we tried using the SS adjuster nuts, with no caulk. Still have a gap at the front. This arrangement does have the least amount of gap, however the seal does not lay on the body like it is supposed to.

At this point we are running out of things to try. Does anybody have any other tricks that have worked for you?

I appreciate any advice you can offer.

Thanks,

Marty
 
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