Page 2 Section O, diagrams the frame measurments. My questions about this page are how close were the cars built to these specs? Also I dont think their are tape measures in tenths of an inch, so should the measurments be converted to the nearest 1/8 or 1/16? . There is a difference, for ex. measurment 1. is 1.66", converted to the nearest 1/8 its 5/8, but converted to the nearest 1/16, its 11/16. I know 1/16 might not be much, but then again it might be, thats what I want to know. How close are the tolerences in the frame measurments? And how close were they built to those specs?
Underframe Dimensions
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the_tool_man
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I can't definatively answer your first question, other than to say I'd be very surprised if 1/16" wasn't good enough.
As for your second question... Provided you have enough light, and good eyesight, you can pretty easily be within half the resolution of the graduations on the tape. Simply interpolate between the nearest graduations. Using your example, 1.66" would be between 1-5/8" (1.625") and 1-11/16" (1.688"). It would be closer to 1-11/16", as it's only 0.022" away from it (and 0.041" away from 1-5/8"). Visually, it should appear two-thirds of the way between 1-5/8" and 1-11/16". That's not that hard to see.
Keep in mind that any tape measure is only as accurate as your ability to hold the end on some feature of the car, pull taut, not twist, etc. And, accuracy degrades with use, as the hook end wears, gets bent, etc. And, don't get me started about temperature...
And, as information, you can buy tape measures with 1/10" graduations:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#graduated-tape-rules/=l90uo0 Item 6802A77.
Regards,
John.
As for your second question... Provided you have enough light, and good eyesight, you can pretty easily be within half the resolution of the graduations on the tape. Simply interpolate between the nearest graduations. Using your example, 1.66" would be between 1-5/8" (1.625") and 1-11/16" (1.688"). It would be closer to 1-11/16", as it's only 0.022" away from it (and 0.041" away from 1-5/8"). Visually, it should appear two-thirds of the way between 1-5/8" and 1-11/16". That's not that hard to see.
Keep in mind that any tape measure is only as accurate as your ability to hold the end on some feature of the car, pull taut, not twist, etc. And, accuracy degrades with use, as the hook end wears, gets bent, etc. And, don't get me started about temperature...
And, as information, you can buy tape measures with 1/10" graduations:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#graduated-tape-rules/=l90uo0 Item 6802A77.
Regards,
John.
Thanks for that input ,I understand all that, a pencil mark or chalk line is 1/16, BUT how close was the car built to the measurments? Using the 1.66, say we round to 1 11/16. when its measured with a lazer plumb bob it comes out to 1 9/16, or 1 3/4 does that mean its bent or was it just sloppy fitting? Over the years Ive heard many negetive comments about Tiger construction. Cars built on a monday, when people are hungover, or cars built on friday, when they were only thinking about the weekend.
the_tool_man
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Well, for what it's worth, in the Mustang world, it wasn't unusual to find tolerances of +/- 1/4" on the chassis. My personal car was only out of square by 1/8", so I got a pretty good one. I haven't measured my Tiger, but if it's that good, I'll be happy.
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When I last measured my car I did it myself, and measred the body and not the frame. Using a metal tape measure I hooked one end on the rear of the car then measured to the front where the headlight rims fasten. The difference between the two sides was 1/8 inch, I was using a 25 foot craftsman tape, Maybe when I have help I'll get a more acccurate measurement. kevin
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It's a big guesstimate
Having hand knitted lots of these critters back from the grave, I can tell you that dimensions will vary A LOT. Overall length per side will vary upwards of 1/2" on a healthy carcass. Worse on a car with historical "incidents". Centerline measurements will often find a general bow toward either right or left in the full length. We've learned to stick with basic fit, finish and optics as a rule of thumb. Keep in mind that directly across the rail tracks at Jensen was a row of lunch time pubs . . . . . . .
Having hand knitted lots of these critters back from the grave, I can tell you that dimensions will vary A LOT. Overall length per side will vary upwards of 1/2" on a healthy carcass. Worse on a car with historical "incidents". Centerline measurements will often find a general bow toward either right or left in the full length. We've learned to stick with basic fit, finish and optics as a rule of thumb. Keep in mind that directly across the rail tracks at Jensen was a row of lunch time pubs . . . . . . .
Thats what I wanted to hear.
Kevin, I did the same thing and was off by 1/16" and my frame IS bent.
Randy, Yes Ive heard about those pubs. 1/2" My frame is pushed back about 3/8" at the lower radius after the subframe and before the motor mount. The car actually drove ok but the wheel wasnt in the center of the wheelwell.
Thanks for the input, and help.
Kevin, I did the same thing and was off by 1/16" and my frame IS bent.
Randy, Yes Ive heard about those pubs. 1/2" My frame is pushed back about 3/8" at the lower radius after the subframe and before the motor mount. The car actually drove ok but the wheel wasnt in the center of the wheelwell.
Thanks for the input, and help.
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Geared for us dummies
^^K.I.S.S.^^
Why are you still using tapes? the laser measurers give readings as fine as you need and do not make errors.
^^K.I.S.S.^^
Warren
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[QUOTE=0neoffive Keep in mind that directly across the rail tracks at Jensen was a row of lunch time pubs . . . . . . .[/QUOTE
Just like across the street from Northrop Grumman is the Jet Strip and other bars. Gee wonder why some parts had double entry in Jensen ledgers.
Just like across the street from Northrop Grumman is the Jet Strip and other bars. Gee wonder why some parts had double entry in Jensen ledgers.