What is the correct base gasket for Holley 4160 carb

IvaTiger

IvaTiger

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Can someone post a photo of the correct base gasket that goes between the Edelbrock F4B intake manifold and the 4 barrel Holley 4160 465 cfm carburetor and its thickness. Does it also require an insulating gasket ? I know space is limited between the hood and the original air filter top cover
 
I used holley part number 20-124 installation kit to install my 4160 465 cfm carb on an Edelbrock f4b.

Clearance is tight with an LAT fiberglass hood. I used modeling clay to determine the clearance. Some adjustment of the air cleaner gave about a 1/4" of clearance to the rear hood ducts. I think the original hood would not have any problem.

I used no insulator or spacer since there is no room. I have read a spacer can add some horsepower but that is not an option for me.

For reference, my carb a Holley 1848-02 worked really well out of the box. I set the idle CO to 3%, which gave the highest idle speed. The only issue is there is a small hesitation at wot around 3500 RPM. I bought the holley accelerator pump kit and a few different pump nozzles to fix the hesitation. I have not played with these yet since I have gone north for a few months to stay out of the Florida heat.
One other issue I found. You need to check to make sure there is clearance between the air cleaner cover and the choke blade. A thin air cleaner will result in a clearance problem and the choke will be stuck open.

Let us know your experience.
 
pfreen said:
I used holley part number 20-124 installation kit to install my 4160 465 cfm carb on an Edelbrock f4b.

Clearance is tight with an LAT fiberglass hood. I used modeling clay to determine the clearance. Some adjustment of the air cleaner gave about a 1/4" of clearance to the rear hood ducts. I think the original hood would not have any problem.

I used no insulator or spacer since there is no room. I have read a spacer can add some horsepower but that is not an option for me.

For reference, my carb a Holley 1848-02 worked really well out of the box. I set the idle CO to 3%, which gave the highest idle speed. The only issue is there is a small hesitation at wot around 3500 RPM. I bought the holley accelerator pump kit and a few different pump nozzles to fix the hesitation. I have not played with these yet since I have gone north for a few months to stay out of the Florida heat.
One other issue I found. You need to check to make sure there is clearance between the air cleaner cover and the choke blade. A thin air cleaner will result in a clearance problem and the choke will be stuck open.

Let us know your experience.
Click to expand...
The universal kit has no divides in it :- large center opening. The throttle plate has cross over channels in it which possibly pay a part in a non large center opening The attached photos are the gaskets that came in the trick kit from Holley. I think the top left gasket is the one I will try. The top right is similar but has a hole in the center which would open up the large chamber in the center of the 4 openings The lower 2 have the large center opening If you are reading this post please post your experiences
373AF6A4-6225-4F79-8C56-4A8BA4A12A3F.jpeg
F67DC14C-E5C4-4BA5-8544-D3C29E66401C.jpeg
9E62CC77-725C-42CA-A323-F578AF5EE97B.jpeg
 
I used a couple of 1/4" phenolic spacers and two of the completely open gaskets on my car which has an F4B with a 600 CFM Holley. I changed out the air cleaner stud and nut, to a flat head phillips screw for hood clearance. The spacers give more velocity to the fuel/air mix and also isolate the carb from manifold heat.
 
Along those same lines, I went gasket, spacer, gasket, spacer, gasket, spacer, gasket- until I reached max height- giving me max velocity and isolation...

carb plate stack 001.JPG
 
the amount of spacers you can run depends on which intake and carb you have, as well as if the hood is stock or not. Crumpled up tin foil will give a good guide for available clearance. I used a 1" spacer on a low rise "Tiger" intake with a Holley carb and had tons of room under a stock hood
 
I have stock hood and know that a 2 inch thick air filter will cause interference but I know a 1 1/2 filter will work. Does even a 1/4 inch spacer have much influence?
How much clearance would you recommend?
Thanks for the info
 
Tony butler said:
I have stock hood and know that a 2 inch thick air filter will cause interference but I know a 1 1/2 filter will work. Does even a 1/4 inch spacer have much influence?
How much clearance would you recommend?
Thanks for the info
Click to expand...
I'm using the stock filter housing with one of the washable K&N filters and a pair of 1/4 spacers. it made a big difference and the thing I notice now, is when I park the car the float bowls
P6151360.JPG
don't boil dry. (making my garage stink of gas) the intake is an F4B with a holley 4150/4160 type carb. I imagine that 1/2 would be more than enough clearance, but as I said... I replaced the stud for the air cleaner mounting with a countersunk 1/4-20 Phillips screw that sits flush with the top of the air cleaner lid.
 
Austin Healer said:
I'm using the stock filter housing with one of the washable K&N filters and a pair of 1/4 spacers. it made a big difference and the thing I notice now, is when I park the car the float bowlsView attachment 17953 don't boil dry. (making my garage stink of gas) the intake is an F4B with a holley 4150/4160 type carb. I imagine that 1/2 would be more than enough clearance, but as I said... I replaced the stud for the air cleaner mounting with a countersunk 1/4-20 Phillips screw that sits flush with the top of the air cleaner lid.
Click to expand...
With the mention of the heat boiling off the fuel in the float bowls would it be beneficial to shut the fuel pump off and let the car idle to drain the bowls ?
 
I know several people who have installed a switch to do just that. with an insulator, it's not needed... But the switch does provide security from possible theft....
 
Tony butler said:
The universal kit has no divides in it :- large center opening. The throttle plate has cross over channels in it which possibly pay a part in a non large center opening The attached photos are the gaskets that came in the trick kit from Holley. I think the top left gasket is the one I will try. The top right is similar but has a hole in the center which would open up the large chamber in the center of the 4 openings The lower 2 have the large center opening If you are reading this post please post your experiences View attachment 17949View attachment 17950View attachment 17951
Click to expand...
I used the one on the bottom right (open center) this winter after rebuilding my Holley 4V and have the 4FB manifold. Wouldn't want any of the gasket material (top row) to fail and get sucked into the intake. Slather the gasket with some grease and you won't have to scrape it off at some future date. I also bought a Holley heat shield that I never used and don't seem to need. Sits beneath the carb and fuel bowls.

Edelbrock 4fb.jpg


Holley on Edelbrock.jpg
 
Last edited:
o2bdriving said:
I used the one on the bottom right (open center) this winter after rebuilding my Holley 4V and have the 4FB manifold. Wouldn't want any of the gasket material (top row) to fail and get sucked into the intake. Slather the gasket with some grease and you won't have to scrape it off at some future date. I also bought a Holley heat shield that I never used and don't seem to need. Sits beneath the carb and fuel bowls.
Click to expand...
I will go ahead and use the one on the bottom right considering my first choice of top left risks prices falling into the plenum. I will use loctite 222 on the screws that attach the throttle body to the main body since although unlikely they come loose. This is purple in color and is of low adhesion.The bottom left gasket does have those ‘ears’ that cover the screws
 
TH F4B has two oval holes, so you definately do not want to run a 4 hole carb gasket. as it is a dual plane manifold, running an open gasket works just fine.
 
Likewise, the carb in my picture sits atop an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold, which, near as I can figure is their modern day equivalent of the F4B that I had on my Tiger in the 70's.
 
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