Closing horn holes?
- Thread starter PITT40
- Start date
Not true..
Can you kindly tell me precisely why you say "not true"?
My car has NEVER overheated in the 23+ years I've owned it. No matter what traffic conditions. The radiator was sourced from Paul Reisentz. I do not run an oil cooler nor auxiliary fans. I have had ZERO problems with running hot. And isn't the rationale for closing the horn openings to make the car run cooler? Or perhaps I am missing something? Is it possible that closed horn openings would make my car faster?
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Closing Off Horn Holes
Here is a posting that Duke put on the Forum awhile ago.
http://catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=1601&highlight=Horn+Holes
There were a lot of replies and discussions in that thread! And Duke followed up with an excellent article that appeared in Tiger Tales later.
David
Here is a posting that Duke put on the Forum awhile ago.
http://catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=1601&highlight=Horn+Holes
There were a lot of replies and discussions in that thread! And Duke followed up with an excellent article that appeared in Tiger Tales later.
David
I like Tiger Blue's comment in that thread. And if I may, here's the quote:
"Fix something that needs fixin. If the temps are within the normal range? In your inviornment? Find another project that needs fixing.
Rick"
My car, fortunately, don't need no stinkin' flaps or whatever. Could it be that I have a proper radiator? No, that's too simple an answer.
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- 4,157
Different cars different requirements.
Duke has a high Hp motor which would put out lots of heat. I know Duke is not one to cut corners.. so a stock upgraded system may not be enough for him.
IIRC the issue for him was not so much idle.. but on the run.. hence his solution.
Each to their own. There are benifits on a stock car by blocking the holes as detailed in TEAE... there can be benifits on a modified car.. maybe not required.. but helpful....
If your car has temp issues check the fundamentals.. hoses, radiator.. see if there is bloackage inthe block/heads... if all is fine.. then upgarde fan.. close off hround.. block horn holes... if not.. upgarde the radiator, add thermo fan..
Dont fix things that are working fine... dont bandaid problems as a fix if there is a core issue...
examine... assess... fix, modify, upgrade as needed.
Duke has a high Hp motor which would put out lots of heat. I know Duke is not one to cut corners.. so a stock upgraded system may not be enough for him.
IIRC the issue for him was not so much idle.. but on the run.. hence his solution.
Each to their own. There are benifits on a stock car by blocking the holes as detailed in TEAE... there can be benifits on a modified car.. maybe not required.. but helpful....
If your car has temp issues check the fundamentals.. hoses, radiator.. see if there is bloackage inthe block/heads... if all is fine.. then upgarde fan.. close off hround.. block horn holes... if not.. upgarde the radiator, add thermo fan..
Dont fix things that are working fine... dont bandaid problems as a fix if there is a core issue...
examine... assess... fix, modify, upgrade as needed.
Different cars different requirements.
Duke has a high Hp motor which would put out lots of heat. I know Duke is not one to cut corners.. so a stock upgraded system may not be enough for him.
IIRC the issue for him was not so much idle.. but on the run.. hence his solution.
Each to their own. There are benifits on a stock car by blocking the holes as detailed in TEAE... there can be benifits on a modified car.. maybe not required.. but helpful....
If your car has temp issues check the fundamentals.. hoses, radiator.. see if there is bloackage inthe block/heads... if all is fine.. then upgarde fan.. close off hround.. block horn holes... if not.. upgarde the radiator, add thermo fan..
Dont fix things that are working fine... dont bandaid problems as a fix if there is a core issue...
examine... assess... fix, modify, upgrade as needed.
Precisely, Michael, precisely.
My car, fortunately, don't need no stinkin' flaps or whatever. Could it be that I have a proper radiator? No, that's too simple an answer.
Good for you then. You are defiantly in the minority of Tiger owners. I would verify though. Get a laser temp gun and check the thermostat housing and some of the hoses once you are up to temp to see if it matches your gauge.
My issue was NOT high coolant temps but high engine compartment air temps caused the IAT for the engine to get high and the A/F mixture to go rich. Watched it live, real time on the wide band O2 gauge. I have never had any coolant issue with the 347 and it rarely goes over 180. Not the case when the 260 was installed.
A 347 full roller engine with aluminum heads and intake will run cooler than a 260 no matter the HP the 347 is developing. A full roller engine has much less friction and the aluminum conducts heat much better.
Warren
Gold forum user
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- 3,872
No
He did not. We only use real part numbers even on reproduction AC housings.
I did not use them and ended up making alloy ones to match the purrty alloy radiator.
I bent a flap in and mounted to old horn bolt holes.
I noticed a difference on both of my in tune cars.
The alloy ones too some time to do nice. Last time I used a Home Depot galvanized metal shingle and some alloy gutter tape black paint and it was 5 min.
crude but effective.
Did you stamp faux part numbers in them to drive future restorers crazy?
He did not. We only use real part numbers even on reproduction AC housings.
I did not use them and ended up making alloy ones to match the purrty alloy radiator.
I bent a flap in and mounted to old horn bolt holes.
I noticed a difference on both of my in tune cars.
The alloy ones too some time to do nice. Last time I used a Home Depot galvanized metal shingle and some alloy gutter tape black paint and it was 5 min.
crude but effective.
Pics please.
He did not. We only use real part numbers even on reproduction AC housings.
I did not use them and ended up making alloy ones to match the purrty alloy radiator.
I bent a flap in and mounted to old horn bolt holes.
I noticed a difference on both of my in tune cars.
The alloy ones too some time to do nice. Last time I used a Home Depot galvanized metal shingle and some alloy gutter tape black paint and it was 5 min.
crude but effective.
Warren
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 3,872
First
You have to decide if you're going to use the original horn on the car. Getting the old contacts to work is problematic in those horns , I just dealt with their anemic sound and none of them out for a tour through the opening .
I , would send you pictures but I'm 90 miles away from the car until Tuesday . The spare plates , are rather heavy and I was just going to take them to the fix in swap meet and drop them in the pile . I completely different set , and making my own pattern . I just used a old file folder taped it up from the front and then the outline of the opening on the back ,then added 3/4 .
I understand the frustration you have when you go to the Internet and look and see all this fine information and then you can't get it to work . The is on the internet but how do you get that transferred actual size, definitely beyond my computer skill level..
It is a very interesting read , all the tune up advice ,advance curves vaccum connections
mechanical vs centrifical or a combination of both for your motor setup .
But it does seem to work for a lot of applications .
My mark 1a had an LAT hood at speed it likes to pop open all the time in the back ,
despite my constant fiddling with it . I finally gave up and realized she wants to look like a race car ...
You have to decide if you're going to use the original horn on the car. Getting the old contacts to work is problematic in those horns , I just dealt with their anemic sound and none of them out for a tour through the opening .
I , would send you pictures but I'm 90 miles away from the car until Tuesday . The spare plates , are rather heavy and I was just going to take them to the fix in swap meet and drop them in the pile . I completely different set , and making my own pattern . I just used a old file folder taped it up from the front and then the outline of the opening on the back ,then added 3/4 .
I understand the frustration you have when you go to the Internet and look and see all this fine information and then you can't get it to work . The is on the internet but how do you get that transferred actual size, definitely beyond my computer skill level..
It is a very interesting read , all the tune up advice ,advance curves vaccum connections
mechanical vs centrifical or a combination of both for your motor setup .
But it does seem to work for a lot of applications .
My mark 1a had an LAT hood at speed it likes to pop open all the time in the back ,
despite my constant fiddling with it . I finally gave up and realized she wants to look like a race car ...
Warren
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 3,872
First
You have to decide if you're going to use the original horn on the car. Getting the old contacts 3 is problematic in those horns , I just dealt with their anemic sound and none of them out for a tour through the opening .
I , would send you pictures but I'm 90 miles away from the car until Tuesday ,they are rather heavy and I was just going to take them to the fix in swap meet and drop them in the pile . I made a completely different set , and making my own pattern . I just used a old file folder taped it up from the front and then the outline of the opening on the back ,then added 3/4 .
I understand the frustration you have when you go to the Internet and look and see all this fine information and then you can't get it to work . The is on the internet but how do you get that transferred actual size, definitely beyond my computer skill level..
It is a very interesting read , all the tune up advice ,advance curves vaccum connections
mechanical vs centrifical or a combination of both for your motor setup .
But it does seem to work for a lot of applications .
My mark 1a had an LAT hood at speed it likes to pop open all the time in the back ,
despite my constant fiddling with it . I finally gave up and realized she wants to look like a race car ...
You have to decide if you're going to use the original horn on the car. Getting the old contacts 3 is problematic in those horns , I just dealt with their anemic sound and none of them out for a tour through the opening .
I , would send you pictures but I'm 90 miles away from the car until Tuesday ,they are rather heavy and I was just going to take them to the fix in swap meet and drop them in the pile . I made a completely different set , and making my own pattern . I just used a old file folder taped it up from the front and then the outline of the opening on the back ,then added 3/4 .
I understand the frustration you have when you go to the Internet and look and see all this fine information and then you can't get it to work . The is on the internet but how do you get that transferred actual size, definitely beyond my computer skill level..
It is a very interesting read , all the tune up advice ,advance curves vaccum connections
mechanical vs centrifical or a combination of both for your motor setup .
But it does seem to work for a lot of applications .
My mark 1a had an LAT hood at speed it likes to pop open all the time in the back ,
despite my constant fiddling with it . I finally gave up and realized she wants to look like a race car ...