Thanks, Duke. One reason I love this place is because I learn stuff here!
That would be a good experiment for me- the laser temp gun. My engine compartment temps may very well be higher than I would like to think.
Closing horn holes?
- Thread starter PITT40
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Thanks, Duke. One reason I love this place is because I learn stuff here!
That would be a good experiment for me- the laser temp gun. My engine compartment temps may very well be higher than I would like to think.
Warren
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Yes
But got to get my geek, I mean son to do it for me. I'm not in sales anymore so that part of my brain is being written over with esoteric Tiger data.
I will shoot some pics, but I can't r n r them as I clear coated the shiny side and they scratch up easy..
We had a marketplace seller of these plates but its so easy to make a paper template, or Rube Goldberg it with .50 cent metal shingle n tape. The tape also seals nice n ckose about firewall air leak.
But got to get my geek, I mean son to do it for me. I'm not in sales anymore so that part of my brain is being written over with esoteric Tiger data.
I will shoot some pics, but I can't r n r them as I clear coated the shiny side and they scratch up easy..
We had a marketplace seller of these plates but its so easy to make a paper template, or Rube Goldberg it with .50 cent metal shingle n tape. The tape also seals nice n ckose about firewall air leak.
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There are pics for a simple block-off plate in my profile as well as a dimensioned template with instructions.
cobrakidz
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Did you stamp faux part numbers in them to drive future restorers crazy?
Yes--I stamped 69024 in them so it looks like an LAT or rare Sunbeam part number. haha. They were actually easy to make and install.
I inserted my plate behind the radiator bracket thinking the plate would seal tighter against the raised flange of the body.
I was just trying to eliminate the small gap where air could be forced thru and create a new whistle noise I'd have to track down.
I also poked a few more holes to mount a small air horn on the front face and the relay on the inside.
BTW I believe the 69024 part number denotes a MKII part. 69023 was used for MKI and MKIA.
Some part numbers are followed by a mis-aligned diamond stamping or an X.
I was just trying to eliminate the small gap where air could be forced thru and create a new whistle noise I'd have to track down.
I also poked a few more holes to mount a small air horn on the front face and the relay on the inside.
BTW I believe the 69024 part number denotes a MKII part. 69023 was used for MKI and MKIA.
Some part numbers are followed by a mis-aligned diamond stamping or an X.
I will work on a better part number...
My stock horns are still mounted in front of the plates--didn't want to remove them.
Stamp EXPERIMENTAL DEPT L/H & R/H on them.
That should cause some head scratching in 50 years.
cobrakidz
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I had better make sure I stamp SA (Shelby American) on them to get the price up a little higher, maybe even scratch a GB on them in the corner........hint--George.
But seriously--they were easy to cut out and I am sure in some small way they do help while driving down the road, it now forces the air through the radiator and not around the sides of it.
But seriously--they were easy to cut out and I am sure in some small way they do help while driving down the road, it now forces the air through the radiator and not around the sides of it.
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closing horn holes
Pitt, I have a template for horn hole covers that is attached. It is in .PDF format so you print it out and test fit. I cut mine out of .065 aluminum sheet purchased on the internet. These covers sandwich between the radiator mounting and the front body cross piece that the radiator bolts to. There doesn't seem to any interference with the horns if you just rotate the horns a bit to move the horn contacts away from the cover. I cut mine with a band saw, but they could easily be cut out with a hand held jig saw. I plan to paint them OEM satin black and put door edge protect channel on part of the edge for dress and anti-rattle. Successfully loaded .PDF file for direct printing.
Pitt, I have a template for horn hole covers that is attached. It is in .PDF format so you print it out and test fit. I cut mine out of .065 aluminum sheet purchased on the internet. These covers sandwich between the radiator mounting and the front body cross piece that the radiator bolts to. There doesn't seem to any interference with the horns if you just rotate the horns a bit to move the horn contacts away from the cover. I cut mine with a band saw, but they could easily be cut out with a hand held jig saw. I plan to paint them OEM satin black and put door edge protect channel on part of the edge for dress and anti-rattle. Successfully loaded .PDF file for direct printing.
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I agree closing horn holes only helps a little. But in a good or bad way?
With them open a little fresh air moving by the headers might help to keep them cooler for whatever that's worth. With hood vents air probably comes in but goes straight out the vents which may help at keeping the carb cooler but now there is a new path for the heated air from the rad which would bring more hot air by the carb.
With the horn holes closed there is only so much air that can flow thru the rad that any "new" air from the horn hole closure may just go down and under the car. Certainly a lot less air would be flowing into the engine compartment.
BTW I was just messing with you all about the part numbers. It seemed familiar but I didn't catch that it was the number used on the air cleaner. Ya got me. I was just teasing everyone about being so part number concerned about every little part. LOL
With them open a little fresh air moving by the headers might help to keep them cooler for whatever that's worth. With hood vents air probably comes in but goes straight out the vents which may help at keeping the carb cooler but now there is a new path for the heated air from the rad which would bring more hot air by the carb.
With the horn holes closed there is only so much air that can flow thru the rad that any "new" air from the horn hole closure may just go down and under the car. Certainly a lot less air would be flowing into the engine compartment.
BTW I was just messing with you all about the part numbers. It seemed familiar but I didn't catch that it was the number used on the air cleaner. Ya got me. I was just teasing everyone about being so part number concerned about every little part. LOL
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Are the Horn Hole templates still available here? Been circling this and other threads looking for them. Is there also a template for the base of the fan shroud and top of the cross-member? Building my list of winter projects and cooling is top of the list.
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Tigersunited website
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Michael, thank you. Pasting link for future generations of FNGs. TigersUnited.comTigersunited website
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Warren
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There's also the hunk a whatever to put between the cross member and the bottom of the radiator. I have used a closed cell foam in the past. Something like the 3/4 pipe insulation cut along the existing split and shove it in with a little dab will do ya of weatherstrip cement.
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Hey Warren, thanks for the tip. Was thinking about closed-cell foam for airflow mgt. Gonna see what I can fashion out of this for horn holes.
Foam Sheets Self Adhesive Closed Cell Foam Neoprene Rubber Sheets Insulation Anti Vibration Foam Rubber Pads with Adhesive, Black (6" x 6" x 1/2", 8Pcs): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific Stick to one another in the center with the self-adhesive and have the edges non-stick with half in front and half in the back of the horn opening. Insert for driving and pull out for a show.
Steve
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