How much power is too much?

[66TigerMK1A]

I have to take issue with Jim on the advantage of the late model roller block engine. It's the heads. If you you go to COMP CAMS web site and use their computer, CAM QUEST program and vary the head flows with a given cam,gives an indication of the end power output. For example my HIPO 289 with 224 duration cam with HIPO heads yields 305 HP. My ported 351 Windsors yield 335 hp. Edelbrock Performers yield 365 hp, Trick flow 170s yield 375hp, and AFRs 165s yield 402 HP. Roller cams just allow higher RPMs and a few more HP before valve float. For the problems associated with converting to a late model roller 6 bolt block ain't worth the hassle.

Did I say anything about a late model roller block in my post??

What I said was... " I think one of the reasons is that the 'roller' motors can make that kind of hp and still act pretty civilized unless you really get on the throttle . An old school motor had to be pretty radical to do that !! " ...

Now, what I meant was ... if you can run a 'roller' CAM ! ... I didn't specify the means to do that and as Rick said you can retro fit an earlier block to do that...

He also said..." In short the roller tappets allow a more aggressive ramp profile. Result is cam specs higher lift with same duration or in my case more lift than the cam replaced with less duration. My rpm range in track event is up to about 6300 routinely. Less aggressive roller cams would have the same advantage over flat tappets including none of the possible break-in problems with flat tappets. It is technically a better more advanced design.

In the car? (no dyno yet) but potentially the same or greater HP with a better idle and drive-ability and low end due to less duration. " ...


I think he gets it !!

I think the question was about high horsepower AND driveability... and of course, good heads will help the first part a LOT!

As far as fitting a later model 6 bolt roller H.O etc. .. it's not that hard
I bought my 5.0 H.O. 'roller' long block with Trick Flow alum. heads and cam from Fantasy engines in Rhode Island about 6 years ago for $2999 ! He offered to 'dress' it any way I wanted so I asked for black paint, a front sump, very early front cover and he even threw in a brand new 28 oz. crank so I could run the stock flywheel, 3 bolt stock damper/pulley and I used an early water pump ( stock Tiger would've also bolted right up! ) I bought a Pertronics distributor and it had instructions on which gear to put on if I was using a roller cam...
Another issue is bolting it up to the narrow pattern toploader but there are still dual pattern bell housings out there that aren't too hard to track down ( my buddy has one for sale ) or use a $$ QuickTime bell
As far as a slave bracket for a 6 bolt block, one of our CAT members offers a repro bracket ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/221558535742?item=221558535742&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
Not much to it... and you can make it look pretty much like a 'stocker' if ya want to


Jim
B382ooo446

 

[0neoffive]

Who Made It ?

What manufacturer makes an over the counter 302 X 28 oz. crank ?

 

[66TigerMK1A]

Randy, I think he used this one from Eagle...
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/esp-103023000/overview/make/ford
Scat also makes a $$ one...
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sca-43021/overview/make/ford


Jim
B382ooo446

 

[tgrrr]

Why go roller lifter? You do not need a "late Ford block". I did it with my Boss 302 block with ported Windsor heads. Hydraulic lifter cam replaced by a retro kit roller tappet roller. In short the roller tappets allow a more aggressive ramp profile. Result is cam specs higher lift with same duration or in my case more lift than the cam replaced with less duration.

Rick

Like Rick I have been running a roller cam in a Boss 302 block with ported 351W heads for over 20 years. My cam is a Crower solid lifter roller with a bit more lift and duration but with the individual runner induction it will idle surprisingly well.

Bob H

 

[Austin Healer]

I just got finished detuning a MK2 that a client of mine put together. It had an all alloy 347. Individual port fuel injection, crank triggered ignition. The entire thing ran on a MOTEC computer/controller. On the dyno it showed 460 HP at the flywheel. The car was undriveable, beyond frightening. The first time I drove it I sheared one of the rear axle to hub keys down the long axis.

I brought the car into the shop and pulled all of the electronics, installed an F4B and a Holley 600 and a normal distributor. I figure the car has closer to 350 flywheel horsepower now and is a breeze to drive. I don't want to be exhausted every time I get out of my car. I have a 302 in my MK2. Close to 300HP. I'm not 16 anymore and I have nothing to prove to anyone. I want to be able to drive the car and enjoy it. if I stay off the loud pedal, I get better than 20 MPG, and if I'm feeling juvenile, I can outrun most anything.

Most people who see the car have no idea what it is and are expecting MGB type performance... nice to know I can put some distance between them and me if I need to.