My vote is for most of the oil being sucked through the PCV system Duke. There is a valid reason for the baffle being in the valve cover to begin with, and you found the reason for it! At a reasonably steady 3000 to 3500 RPM part throttle cruise you can pull a LOT of oil through there.
Riddle me this batman -
- Thread starter Duke Mk1a
- Start date
Just ordered one of these -
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/52205/10002/-1
It going where the washer bottle was.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/52205/10002/-1
It going where the washer bottle was.
66TigerMK1A
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Duke...
I was thinking about one of those cans after reading the thread... and of the ones I've found, you picked out one of the nicest ones..
The problem I see is... you're not doing anything about the oil consumption problem! If all that oil IS really getting sucked up the PCV... it will still happen... you'll just be emptying the can a LOT. I guess the engine won't suffer fouled plugs but it would be nice to keep the oil IN the engine in the first place... Is it possible that the PCV that you're using isn't correct for that engine? I was told that I should try and find one that was originally fitted to a similar cu. in. motor and settled on one from an old 283 Chev. application... mostly because it only had one outlet and most I saw had at least 2...
I mentioned my engine had some 'restrictors in the oil passages and thought they were for restricting oil to the 'top end' but I was re-reading the specs on my motor build and in fact they are restricting oil to the crank and rod bearings !!
Jim
B382000446
I was thinking about one of those cans after reading the thread... and of the ones I've found, you picked out one of the nicest ones..
The problem I see is... you're not doing anything about the oil consumption problem! If all that oil IS really getting sucked up the PCV... it will still happen... you'll just be emptying the can a LOT. I guess the engine won't suffer fouled plugs but it would be nice to keep the oil IN the engine in the first place... Is it possible that the PCV that you're using isn't correct for that engine? I was told that I should try and find one that was originally fitted to a similar cu. in. motor and settled on one from an old 283 Chev. application... mostly because it only had one outlet and most I saw had at least 2...
I mentioned my engine had some 'restrictors in the oil passages and thought they were for restricting oil to the 'top end' but I was re-reading the specs on my motor build and in fact they are restricting oil to the crank and rod bearings !!
Jim
B382000446
Moondoggie
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I have to agree with Jim in some respects, 2 qts in 1100 miles of highway driving is a bunch and that little plastic gizmo holds maybe 2oz. What I notice is you are using the stock steel valve covers and the cast aluminum
LAT covers are much higher...so high I know that there is no way to get the covers off without dropping the motor a bunch with the LAT covers...could this be the problem ????? The pcv is too close to the valve train !!!! I know of a couple of tigers running LAT covers and no damper and not using a bunch of oil. How did the second round of compression check come out ???
Moondoggie
LAT covers are much higher...so high I know that there is no way to get the covers off without dropping the motor a bunch with the LAT covers...could this be the problem ????? The pcv is too close to the valve train !!!! I know of a couple of tigers running LAT covers and no damper and not using a bunch of oil. How did the second round of compression check come out ???
Moondoggie
Have thought the same thing about overwhelming the capacity of the catch can. Will check into another PCV as this was the one on the 260. Will also look at a way to extend the fitting to the VC so I can move the PCV 1/2" farther away from the valve train.
Compression check, did it with the engine warm/hot and the throttle plates open.
#1 - 95
#2-4 - 120
#5-8 - 120 to 125
I obviously have lower compression in number one. Leak down of 6% though. I talked with the guy who helped me with machine work and builds race Ford four cylinders. He thinks I might have a gauge issue as the car can run 12.2 1/4 miles and boil the tires through third. I am not going to break into the engine. Will run it 500 miles with break in oil when its back on the road and will do some dyno time in the spring.
Compression check, did it with the engine warm/hot and the throttle plates open.
#1 - 95
#2-4 - 120
#5-8 - 120 to 125
I obviously have lower compression in number one. Leak down of 6% though. I talked with the guy who helped me with machine work and builds race Ford four cylinders. He thinks I might have a gauge issue as the car can run 12.2 1/4 miles and boil the tires through third. I am not going to break into the engine. Will run it 500 miles with break in oil when its back on the road and will do some dyno time in the spring.
cadreamn67
Platinum Forum Member
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Just for grins, you might want to look at the cylinder walls using a borescope when #1 piston is at bottom dead center. Ring sealing problems due to scored walls would not be evident from a leak down test done at top dead center.
Gene
Gene
If you are turning low 12s with the car you certainly don't have a dead hole! Also, if all that oil was being burned in the #1 cylinder you would definitely see it on that plug.
What are you using for a crankcase breather? If you don't have an adequate crankcase breather setup it will force oil through the PCV system and anywhere else it can come out (like the rear main seal you were complaining about and even the dipstick).
What are you using for a crankcase breather? If you don't have an adequate crankcase breather setup it will force oil through the PCV system and anywhere else it can come out (like the rear main seal you were complaining about and even the dipstick).
#1 looks OK and is certainly not oil coated. I am using the stock breather that is on the drivers side VC and has the hose running to the carb. It is also missing the baffle and I have to clean oil off the VC that comes out and around it often. Dipstick is dry.
Check this out -
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/68772/10002/-1
Moroso #710-68776
Valve Cover Breather Grommet With integrated Baffle
Moondoggie
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Duke,
Put a breather on both sides and do not hook them into your air cleaner. Drive the car and track oil consumption. If you can get your hands on a bore scope take a look at #1. If you had a bad compression gauge low readings would happen to more cylinders than just the #1...something is not okay in #1...
Moondoggie
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- 2,873
Out the bottom
Its out....again. I am amazed that the clutch still worked. Lots of cleaning to do. Purchased a top of the line rear main seal and a specific tool to install it. Will be sealing the flywheel bolts too. BTW - found that lost two quarts of oil!
Its out....again. I am amazed that the clutch still worked. Lots of cleaning to do. Purchased a top of the line rear main seal and a specific tool to install it. Will be sealing the flywheel bolts too. BTW - found that lost two quarts of oil!
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66TigerMK1A
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Yep, see my latest new thread.
Moondoggie
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Duke......
Oil leaking out the flywheel bolts is progressive with time as it starts off slow
and then just gets worse as things loosen up. I found that out with my car when I pulled it apart same as you. But I still think you should take a look at #1 with a bore scope to make sure you don't have something bad happening to that cylinder wall.
Also use PERMATEX not teflon tape on the threads when you put it back together
Moondoggie
Oil leaking out the flywheel bolts is progressive with time as it starts off slow
and then just gets worse as things loosen up. I found that out with my car when I pulled it apart same as you. But I still think you should take a look at #1 with a bore scope to make sure you don't have something bad happening to that cylinder wall.
Also use PERMATEX not teflon tape on the threads when you put it back together
Moondoggie
Will be using permatex high temp thread seal. Gonna pull the cylinder head and take a look at the cylinder wall. If it looks good, will have the valves checked on #1.
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KICK IN THE NUTS!
Pulled the head to check cylinder #1 that has lower compression than the other 7.
This is what I have found.
I can feel the score area with my finger. looks like the bottom oil ring is busted. So, is it possible to hone/bore one cylinder. Can it be done without tearing down the engine to the block.
Good thing I have my health!
Pulled the head to check cylinder #1 that has lower compression than the other 7.
This is what I have found.
I can feel the score area with my finger. looks like the bottom oil ring is busted. So, is it possible to hone/bore one cylinder. Can it be done without tearing down the engine to the block.
Good thing I have my health!
Moondoggie
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Bummer
I sent you a PM so check your email.
Yes you can sleeve one cylinder but you will have to tear down the motor
to have it done. You will need to check bearings and the crank journals anyways just to be safe.
Moondoggie
I sent you a PM so check your email.
Yes you can sleeve one cylinder but you will have to tear down the motor
to have it done. You will need to check bearings and the crank journals anyways just to be safe.
Moondoggie